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5

Sometimes the hose barb fittings on a pump or device are removable so you can swap them for another fitting that suits your use. Here, it looks like the hose barbs are molded into the plastic of the pump housing. For this you can use a short length of vinyl or silicone tubing and a hose barb-PVC fitting of the proper size (shown here). You'd have a few ...


4

Current flows in loops. Between hot and hot; or between hot and neutral. But always a loop. Wayward current wants to get back to SOURCE - not earth. For human-generated artificial electricity, wayward hot current wants to get back to NEUTRAL (or an opposing hot) not ground. It has no interest in ground, except that there’s a neutral-ground bond back at ...


4

You need a pump that will provide more pressure. That may or may not be "larger" in terms of HP - my recollection was that the most common 1/2 HP submersible pumps when I was shopping were actually set up for higher pressure/deeper wells than the 3/4 HP pump I got, but the key is that the HP alone does NOT tell you what the pump can or will do - ...


4

Wells are all so different. In my area, we have few aquifers, rather it's mostly underground rivers. So, as usual, "it depends" (sorry!) Water deep down can be under a lot of pressure so when the driller finally hits water, it can rise a lot in the well casing. At my parent's farm there is a 150' well in which the water rises over the top of the ...


4

Could be an overload This is a 240V (2-pole) breaker. Given the 20A size, it is perfectly legal for it to feed both 120V and 240V loads, and I suspect the pool pump is a 240V load. A 20A 240V/2-pole breaker has two poles (legs) of 20A each. A 120V load can draw off one leg and neutral, and it will draw the amps it says. A 240V load will draw off both legs at ...


3

When heating below 32 °F or 0 °C frost forms on the outdoor coils of a heat pump - and that can happen when the air temperature is above that point, if the coils are that cold to collect heat from cold air. The controller has some logic which either detects or assumes frost formation and kicks into defrost mode to melt the frost so that airflow is restored. ...


3

IF you can drain it of all water, that would be good. Since this is often difficult, or requires major disassembly to achieve with any confidence, non-toxic RV antifreeze is another option to prevent damage.


3

It's not about a short. It's about insulation leakage. Tear it down and look for any place where electricity is able to contact where it should not, or places where debris is able to form a conductive path where it should not. You can paint it with insulating paint, or epoxy.


3

Perfectly normal for non-stainless steel pumps to rust. Even stainless steel ones may rust, slightly. The white corrosion may indicate some cast aluminum components, and if so, the combination of aluminum and iron components would also tend to promote galvanic corrosion. It's not a cause for great concern - it's primarily cosmetic. It does lead me personally ...


3

There are something called "alternating relays" or "alternating switches", not to be confused with alternators for cars/trucks. The good thing is they aren't a "one off" configuration, they are industry standard. The community water system I helped support used one to alternate between 2 pumps. Worked great. https://www....


3

Those pumps are rated in feet or meters of head pressure. Most submersible pumps similar to what you show are only rated to 15-20’ of head this is the equivalent of 7-10 psi or the maximum pressure it can develop. For that amountc of power it draws it probably has a fair volume. To get more pressure you usually have to sacrifice volume or add horse power. ...


2

Using a ground rod for neutral is not allowed. An easier solution may be to fit a 240V lamp, but to meet code with this you may need to replace the light switch, socket, and re-color the in-shed light wiring. that won't fix the outlets.


2

What you want is a current transducer with a relay output. I use these to stop motors driving conveyor belts if the drive chain or belt breaks the load drops the current transformer senses the drop and trips a relay. Stopping the motor The ones I use are fairly expensive AcuAMP act200-10-s 0-10v output 0-100 amp range 96$ I know automation direct carries ...


2

The "lift" specification of a small pump is the height to which it will raise water above itself. It is another way of specifying the pressure that the pump produces at its output port. It is not a specification of the distance over which the pump will deliver water. As your ceiling is eight feet high and the Mars-21786 can raise water up to 16 ...


2

I have used a copper pipe with an angled cut to push through several types of insulation with the plastic pipe following on behind.


2

I've never stored an ejector pump "wet" but if I wanted to do that, I'd store it in a 50-50 mix of distilled water and standard green automotive antifreeze. The antifreeze contains rust inhibitors. I've personally stored a large diesel engine with a cast iron block for five years after flushing and filling it with 50-50 green antifreeze, and at the ...


2

The assumption is that there is a restriction in the pipe and higher pressure differential across that restriction will lead to more flow. If the restriction is downstream from the pump (a semi clogged valve for example) the operation is obvious. If the restriction is upstream then the pump will draw a partial vacuum between it and the restriction which will ...


2

The fan in the outdoor unit does not run when the outdoor unit is defrosting since you need a hot refrigerant gas in the coil to do the defrosting. With the fan off and not blowing cold air across the coil the refrigerant is being compressed at a very high pressure causing it to heat up to defrost the coil. This is all accomplished by timers and sensors ...


2

Anything else I need to watch out for beside the wiki guide there? Yes, if you are in the US, you must have an EPA 608 certification to do any type of work on a refrigeration system. If you get caught working without one, you can get large fines. Also, depending on the state you live in, you may also need additional licensing or certification. Why do you ...


2

It may be easier to find Barb to Pipe thread and Pipe thread to PVC connectors than a direct transition. You'll still need a short section of hose and hose clamps on the barbed part of the fittings.


2

Actually, that cast iron piece is called an "air gap" which is used so contaminated water of a sewer pipe or drain will never be drawn up that discharge pipe to contaminate anything above. This is usually how water cooler is drained so the discharge of water to the drain or sewer discharge pipe could never cause a negative pressure on the drain ...


2

Seems like the pump may be defective. It should have a valve to allow air into the ball, but not out of it. That does not appear to be working from your description. The "pump" looks very poorly made, at a glance. Even with appropriate adapters, pumping up small things like balls and bicycle tires at a filling station is risky - it's very easy to ...


2

How does it work with just the hose and no sprinkler? That pump probably doesn't have enough pressure to push water through a sprinkler. Here's a back of the envelope analysis. The pump is spec'd as having a lift of 6 m, which is ~19.8 ft. A column of water with a cross section of 1 sq inch and 2.31 feet high weighs 1 lb, or 1 psi for every 2.31 feet of ...


2

Augmented siphon: one pump and a perforated pipe. For this scheme you need a serious pump and a perforated pipe on the plant side. Your pump pulls water from the fish tank into the plant tank. The water is pushed into a PVC pipe along the side of the plant tank near the top. The PVC pipe is perforated such that some of the pressurized water leaves the ...


2

This will probably work, but is not ideal. It will put additional strain on the pump and be prone to blockages (moreso than something with no 90's). If there is no cleanout nearby then you have another problem: getting a snake through all of these bends to clear a blockage. Again, this is no a "showstopper" and you can still clean this out, but ...


2

"I have a question: does this white double pole breaker offer 20A or 40A (20A+20A as labeled) in total?" 20A - At 240V. If your washer draws 20A and your pool pump draws 10A, hardly surprising it would blow, since that would be 30A draw. So it would be reasonable to expect it to blow any time both are on at once, or at least any point in the wash ...


2

First that is a 20 amp circuit it could be 240v but sounds like 2 each 20 amp 120v circuits that are both protected by a 20 amp breaker (not the same as 40 amp). That is a GFCI breaker (I can just barely read ground fault on the tag) . Having multiple loads like the washer and pool pump suggest it is a multiwire branch circuit. Multi-wire branch circuits ...


1

Found it, is a piece called a Tundish.


1

OK. I was able to find out that it's called the "diverter motor". It spins the wash arm. It seems that its leeking through a grommet seal where the white hole is. So, I was able to order a new "diverter motor" and grommet seal. Hopefully that will fix it? Thanks


1

On a house that does not have a boost pump, I would install filters as the first thing after the in-house isolation valve. If you are using a boost pump then it is better to put the filters just downstream of the pump. This is primarily for cavitation reasons (discussed below). Putting before the pressure tank and pressure switch gives a bit better surge ...


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