70

Your grinder is a Class-II Double Insulated appliance and therefore does not require a ground/earth connection. But even if you did decide to fit a 3-pin plug, what would you connect the 3rd pin to? There's no 3rd wire in the cord, nor is there a ground point in the device to connect it to.


58

Drills and impact drivers are similar in that they're both rotating power tools and they have some overlap in usage, but they work differently and have different strengths. Drills apply a constant torque and tend to have good control across a range of speeds and clutch settings. They're good for work that requires care or precision, like drilling a hole or ...


32

The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. You can pull it off with a pliers. The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the ...


24

Put the drill in reverse, firmly grip the chuck (the part you were calling the head) and gently squeeze the trigger up the point that you cannot hold on. If you hear clicking, and it doesn't torque very much, you need to turn the torque setting up to the maximum (the highest number, or the drill setting if it has one). If it still doesn't budge and you're ...


23

I started using a DeWalt compact impact driver a couple of years ago, and will never go back to a regular drill/driver again, with a few exceptions. The impact driver is superior for most types of screws in hard wood, decking and sheathing. It is also great for self tapping and self drilling screws. It rarely strips the head of the screw as long as you keep ...


23

The technique is called double-switching. According to this article, on AC equipment the technique is used to avoid dangerous conditions when hot and neutral are reversed, as often happens with outlets that have been improperly wired. It is permitted by this exception in NEC 404.2(B): 404.2(B) Grounded Conductors. Switches or circuit breakers shall not ...


20

It is double insulated. Your prior one wasn't so its case had to be grounded. Look for the square in the square icon on the name plate of the device: You will not be any safer if you replace the plug.


19

You can make straight cuts parallel to an existing edge by using a circular saw with a guide. To make the bottom edge of the cut clean, be sure the saw does not cut much more deeply than the thickness of the material. You can also put tape on the cut line, before cutting, to prevent the saw from breaking off small pieces of the material on the top edge of ...


18

Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. It definitely doesn't look like carbide. If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a ...


18

For cutting locks, nothing beats an angle grinder. Good locks are all made with hardened steel that should be as hard as any metal cutting blade for a saw. The reciprocating saw will be able to make a little progress into the shackle, but its speed will dull the blade quickly, and once it's even a little dull, it will stop cutting and melt/grind the teeth ...


17

The problem with 'All-rounder' tools is that they are rarely actually very good at anything. Sure they'll let you cut a wavy line in tile, but how often will you be doing this? My advice would be to buy good-quality tools as, and when, you need them. An SDS drill, battery drill-driver, and decent hand-saw will get you a long way. If you'll be cutting sheet ...


16

It has to do with how far back the blade goes on the down (non cutting) stroke. It's usually called the "Pendulum Stroke adjustment." The idea being that it will move the blade back, out of the way of the material on the down stroke. It reduces the load on the saw when cutting thick materials, at the cost of a bit more splintering. Use a setting of 0 ...


15

It depends on what you're cutting, why you're cutting it, and what type of cuts you're making. Long Straight Cuts When it comes to long straight cuts, a table saw is the best in the business. Set the fence, turn it on, and it'll cut the same width pieces forever. With a band saw (or most other saws), you'll be looking at using some type of jig for long ...


14

An ordinary electric drill does not have the speed of the Dremel (30,000 rpm) which is the key to getting the best results from many of the accessories. Also, the Dremel tool is much smaller and lighter than an electric drill which is very useful in many applications such as carving, etching and working with small work pieces. Dremels can be used with non-...


14

Probable reason: they made ONE saw assembly and used a motor that could be configured as 110 or 220. For 220 you would break both lines, for 110 you don't need to, but there is nothing saying you can't (so long as your switch breaks both lines together), so it's just easier to have everything the same.


13

While I appreciate this isn't an answer to the question, I'd like to point out that power tool safety is as much a state of mind as anything. All saws (with the possible exception of the sawstop and similar systems) can bite you, and correspondingly, all saws can be used safely. So, my advice is to learn from experts how to use your chosen saw. Don't slip ...


13

The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord. (Voltage ...


12

I have a hand-tighten chuck on my cordless (a Makita) and I've never had any issues. However most of my bits are spin-resistant (i.e. they have chamfers). I've used it with a step bit to drill 7/8" holes through stainless steel. If that drill has a user-replaceable chuck, you could always just start with the stock one and upgrade if needed...


12

Don't Stall Electric Motors. Ever. Stalled motor = no back EMF = High Current. It burns the windings out. I'd think the technology in more expensive drills with brushless motors would sense a stall condition and go into shutdown, but yours seems to be willing to sacrifice its life, cooking the insulation off the windings and attempting to burn out the ...


11

Try this little trick. Cut two rectangles from your plywood an inch or two larger than what you want your finished pieces to be. Be sure one face of these rectangles are a straight factory edge. Now stack the two pieces together and clamp them with the factory edges one on top of the other, nice and flush. Scribe a perfectly square line using a ...


11

Your hedge trimmer sounds like it has died or is in the process of dying. A quick google search confirms that this can occur with Black & Decker hedge trimmers, although it does not appear to be wide spread. Because you didn't provide the model it isn't possible to give you a more specific reason why it has failed. My opinion is that when you were having ...


10

If you want to rip it (cut it on its long dimension), the only way to be sure it is straight is to use a table saw: If you want to cross cut it (on its short dimension), you can do that with a miter saw if the piece is not too wide: If you are confident in your abilities and it does not need to be exactly straight, you can make a line with a chalk line and ...


9

The drill you refer to has a single-ring chuck that is operated with one arm. Its surface is large enough so that you can have reliable grip and apply enough torque to the chuck to tighten/loosen it in all reasonable situations. I've used a similar drill of another brand with the same chuck design - the chuck operation and reliability are just excellent. ...


9

First item in sharpening things. When you're sharpening chisels and knives, you don't remove that much metal that you require powered implements. Manual movement on broad, flat stones is sufficient. Second item in sharpening things. Using a powered grinding implement will destroy any edged tool by heat buildup. A very light touch is needed, once you've ...


9

The most likely solution is to create a template and use a router with a bit that follows the template. The router would also be used for easing over any sharp edges. photo credit, sample image, not a product recommendation


9

Make a piece of board that looks like the following with some small 0.1 to 0.2 inch thick strips glued to it. This board would be long enough that you can hold it safely near the belt sander. The pocket in the middle will be the periphery size of the small item that you want to sand. Stick a piece of double stick tape into the cavity bottom to hold your ...


9

Some other helpful hints (not from Heloise) 0) ALWAYS wear gloves and eye protection. (Note: if you're using one hand to hold down the material being drilled, a glove can reduce injury if the drill bit jams. On the other hand, you should never depend on body parts to hold things in place) 1) When drilling into soft material such as plastic or pine, ...


9

I do not know what "multi-tool" you are referring to. Best DIY all-rounder cutting tool for straight edges? It depends on what you are cutting and how long the cut is. There is not one tool that will do every job well. There are some tools that will do several jobs well and other jobs in a pinch if you do not have the correct tool. ( having the ...


8

When I can, I use a regular drill because it's quieter. Saves my hearing. I also like the regular drill when precision is required. My drill has a low speed setting. Combined with gentle trigger pressure, I can get the screw to just the right depth. For example, when using pole barn screws w/ neoprene washers on metal roofing or siding. In soft woods, ...


8

The clutch on a drill or a driver is a very imprecise thing. It just has multiple settings (24 in your case) and often a separate "drill" setting which disables the clutch. Manufacturers don't specify actual torque values for the clutch settings. So the bottom line is you have a black box with 24 settings that gradually increase the torque after reaching ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible