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You need an inlet in Room A, not an outlet You'll need an outlet box with an inlet in it in Room A so that you can plug the output of the UPS into it with a proper cord (read: if you have to do weird crap to your cord to plug the output of the UPS into the wall, stop, because that's a sign you're doing it wrong!). From there, you can use a suitable chapter ...


8

No. You definitely want to put the humidifier on its own circuit, or a circuit that is not shared with two powder/bath rooms. You could look for a convenience receptacle in the basement and determine if it's on the same circuit. If not, you can probably come out of that for the humidifier. If the humidifier pulls it's full 7A rating when it starts, you ...


6

Good and affordable are both relative to many local factors. Your best bet is to look around you and see what fuel source is abundant. You'll also want to think about how often/long that resource is present during high power use periods as you'll need to store the power for later use which can rack up the price. There are areas of Michigan that are some of ...


5

I have a feeling you will find this to be quite a bit more involved than you originally expected. In addition to whatever other code issues involved in setting up a power "inlet" in Room A (as opposed to the normal receptacle = "outlet"), at a minimum you would need to use approved wiring methods to get from Room A to Room B. That means Romex properly ...


5

Measuring the startup load is as easy as using a clamp on meter and turning the air handler on and off. The startup load will be high for a split second, then drop down to a steady load. Use Ohms Law to calculate the wattage. Watts/Voltage = Current As mentioned in my comment, the invertors peak load is a good indication of the invertors motor starting ...


5

Buy a (petrol-fired) air compressor and pneumatic tools, or go for a bigger generator. (Good) Inverter can cost nearly as much as a generator, also remember that an inverter rated for 2kW has a substained rate of about half. I found on Amazon this 3kW inexpensive inverter, check if it may be good for you. Anyway, with an inverter it's important that the ...


4

A regular consumer UPS will keep the voltage within acceptable limits for electronic equipment, but it won't do much cleanup of electrical noise or irregular frequency while it's powering the equipment from the mains power. That's because they're designed to supply mains power as long as it is available. The battery kicks in only if the mains power goes ...


4

Ask your local regulatory agency. They will probably have that information. However, the usual practice for anything but critical servers is to decide how long you will need to finish what you were working on, save it, and shut down cleanly. If you really want to run for many hours, the simplest answer is just to use a laptop machine. They are designed for ...


4

You want an automatic transfer switch The device you want is called an automatic transfer switch (ATS for short) and should be readily available through an electrical supply house (or equivalent) in your area. Note that this device will need to be approved by your local electrical authorities. A proper ATS not only has electrical protection, but ...


4

Not wishing to state the obvious, but really, the first thing to do is resolve the power fluctuations if at all possible. Assuming that's out of your control, then a decent UPS should be able to handle this by itself. You shouldn't need external inverters or stabilisers. To be honest, at first glance, it sounds like your initial UPS may be faulty or ...


3

You can't average the monthly usage over a number of days because the loads aren't constant. Consider the following two scenarios: A 100W light bulb that's turned on constantly for the whole month (30 days). This uses 100W * 24hr / day * 30 day / month = 72 kWh for the month. A 2400W heater that runs one a day for an hour. This uses 2400W * 1hr / day * 30 ...


3

AC power cannot be stored because AC is dynamically changing (to be more precise, alternating). It requires very expensive hardware to arbitrage it for other types of energy which are storeable, and in the sizes you need, the cost of that hardware is well beyond the scope you established in your question. That leaves: Hand tools. Exercise your arms. ...


3

Yes. You are allowed to use standard practices for in-wall wiring to build a "runt circuit" that goes A to B to C to D and does not actually go to any service panel. You fit standard outlets in all locations but exactly one. Since there are no other inlets, you fit one inlet capable of taking an extension cord. Every circuit needs some number of ...


3

Another view on this.... Your cost of power has doubled so the easiest way to offset this would be to reduce your power consumption. Newer CPU's consume significantly less power than CPU's of just a couple years ago. Monitors backlit via a LED are more efficient than monitors backlit via a CFL. SSD's use less power than traditional hard drives. Laptops ...


3

If the neutral is just a straight wire through the UPS, and it almost certainly is, then this would have no effect. If not, then this would be a very bad idea. I wouldn't connect the neutral at all. (Of course, this may be a bad idea for other reasons, not the least of which is it would certainly violate code.)


3

The images in the eBay post show a 12v 7a power supply with a pinout on the power brick. The pinout shows only a 12v positive (pin) and ground (barrel). The connector is called a 4P Power Snap and Lock, but you may also find it loosely described as a 4 pin DIN connector. The latter description is slightly inaccurate. If you have a volt meter, you can ...


3

No "checklists"! Hard-built interlocks only. There is no such thing as "making sure your main breaker and 2-pole breakers are turned off". You must not do generator interlocking via a checklist or procedure. There are only three legitimate ways to switch from mains to backup power: a generator-style interlock or transfer switch "permanently" rewire ...


2

Your PC power supply is the issue The problem is your PC power supply is extremely sensitive to brownouts. That's a bit hard to understand, since most PC power supplies are world voltage 100-240V (dynamically; they buck the voltage down to their working voltage) and your power is normally 220. A good PC supply should "ride the brownout" down as low as ...


2

Your UPS seems expansive enough that it might have its own logs. See if its AVR kicks in when the fluctuations happened (if you're not there yourself.) Alternative, you seem to have enough money to get a battery powered oscilloscope. My guess is your UPS probably has a subpar or incorrectly calibrated AVR, which probably explains why if effs up on some ...


2

When temporarily testing things... Just take box covers off and wire-nut stuff. My cheater is male on one end, bare wires on the other. I just go into the box, wire-nut up the load under test, plug the cheater into the Kill-a-Watt or whatever, and do my testing. Easy peasy. I test hardwired loads that way all the time, it's no big. Don't bottom your ...


2

It's a heavy load like an air conditioner, so use an air conditioner extension cord. Manufacturers can be greedy/cheap about sizing extension cords, using the absolute minimum UL requires for safety. Bumping to the next size could cost them 25 cents a unit wholesale, which on 100,000 units, is real money. Using a same-gauge extension cord is not a good ...


2

You have what you need. That box or every one I have ever seen are listed for outdoor use. I would open your transfer switch, find a handy spot and drill a hole through the wall install a bushing or short piece of conduit to connect the transfer switch to the inlet and secure the inlet box. I will use caulking around the bushing or nipple to seal it up.


2

The battery is dead Sandy was 2012 and 7 years is better than average for a starting battery. Given that this is emergency equipment, you really ought to replace it prophylactically well before that. Basically the weak battery is acting like a capacitor. That's why it shows voltage while and just after it's on the "battery tender". Also 12.3 V is very ...


1

To use a UPS located in one room for equipment located in another room, you need a UPS designed to be hardwired. This is called a Structured Wiring UPS, and they are typically prohibitively expensive. They have internal wiring connections that an electrician would connect circuit breakers and then outlets to. They do not have normal outlets on them that you'...


1

What they're referring to here is a ground rod Generally speaking, AC mains electricity in the US needs to be earthed (grounded), with the neutral and protective earth (ground) wires bonded to each other and to a grounding electrode system at the main service entrance, to keep the mains from rattling off to some high voltage relative to other grounded ...


1

Turns out that for my thermostat, I think I had to wait a bit longer. It took around 10-15 minutes for the display to completely go blank after the breaker was turned off. I think it might have been a large capacitor contributing to this issue, and it was taking a very long time to discharge.


1

900vs is only 7.5 amps a standard 16 gauge cord would be plenty. Unless you want to go +50' . cords have different ampacities than house wiring. Per table 400.5.a.1 , 16 gauge 13 amps.


1

You shouldn't have any issue. I think you can 'cord-wire' your boiler replacing existing switch with a fixed outlet and putting a plug on boiler cord. So if needed youcan just unplug your boiler from the mains and run it from UPS. A third, to me better, option is to hardwire the UPS before the boiler so in case of outage it automatically kiks in keeping ...


1

You'll need a proper transfer device You'll need some way of properly transferring power between AC and the inverted battery output to do this. "Remembering to turn off a breaker" doesn't count; while you can get mechanical interlock kits that make it so only one of the two interlocked breakers can ever be on, they aren't suitable for your application. ...


1

You have already purchased the transformer and it is rated 300W above your load you should have no problem running off the transformer in step up mode 110 to 220. I would look at your computer closely as many supplies these days are rated for universal voltage ~100 to 230 volt range. Some have switches 110/220 if you have a switched supply on 110 and connect ...


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