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1

I ended up using 4mm-width, 30mm length wood screws, i.e. screws with a conical head and a cross shaped recess (for Philips/Posidriv screwdrivers). So, something like the second from the right in this image: I used a 3.3mm metal drilling bit - narrower than the screw. Since the metal is thin, and likely not very hard, I was expecting to be able to widen the ...


3

Cut your new patch to a size that would lap the framing halfway. Lay it in place and trace it. Cut out the old subfloor to the trace line with your circular saw set to a suitable depth. While you could add framing blocking, that's sometimes easier said than done in tight areas.


7

Just add (nail, screw, and/or glue) additional framing material to the side face of the joist to provide more bearing area for the subfloor.


2

Do you need to seal the faces? Not really in the conditions you described. I have worked in a plywood plant and all the product used the same glue. The difference was the quality of veneer and if any holes were plugged , and later filled and sanded. The last step they did spray the edges and put the company logo on the side of the unit. Painting the surface ...


3

If you do not have a table saw and the run out table big enough for this job and you do not have a track saw you can use a straight edge and clamps. The straight edge (hear after referred to as SE ) needs to be rigid so it will not flex in the middle, a long level works, but some times it so thick that the motor of the saw may not pass over it, and the ...


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