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We can’t see what the pipe is very well but guessing because it is below a sink it may be a clean out point. A location that a snake is normally run down the drain to clean it out and the plug failed.


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A bit of lateral thinking: Leave the factory inserts at the end of the tube alone. Cut a section out of the center of the tube. Purchase a set of matching threaded inserts and a short length of all-thread with matching threads. Insert a threaded insert into each of the newly cut ends, holding them in place with epoxy. Screw together to make a shorter tube ...


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Cut the rod to the desired length. Then get a rotary tool like a Dremel with a cutoff disk. Cut the tubing that holds the insert lengthwise down to the surface of the insert. Make three or four cuts. Then pry the tubing apart with a slotted screwdriver, freeing up the insert. Slightly chamfer the inside edge of the shortened length of tubing and tap/pound ...


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If you are willing to risk destruction of the item, heat may serve the purpose. As you wish to shorten the tubing, cutting off the threaded portion will prevent the remaining desired length from being damaged. It's possible the insert is secured with what is often called Loctite™ and more generically called anerobic thread adhesive. The red version is nearly ...


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It's soft copper tubing. I have used it when replacing old pipes in two story building where access was extremely limited. I have seen SharkBite connectors used on soft copper but it has to be perfectly round... which is sometimes difficult. I'd be switching to hard copper before using SharkBites. Personally, I wouldn't be using SharkBites at all.


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It looks like type K soft copper. Generally it is used as the underground supply line from the municipal source at the street to the house. In most cases it terminates at the valve and a harder copper is used on the house side of the main valve. Push to connect fittings need a perfectly round pipe in order for the rubber seal inside of it to function as ...


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I would first try bleach rather than vinegar. This looks like it could be mold and bleach kills mold very effectively. We use the same brand of shower head, ours being hand holdable on a flexible line. We use them for years and don't get that brown deposit. If yours is hand holdable, let it hang down in a bowl of bleach in water. First try 1/8 cup in 1 qt ...


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Probably algae - not sure I'd do anything. You can get a bag fill it with white vinegar and tie it around your shower head and leave it over night.


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An easy way to do this – is using the heat to expand and cooling to contract principle (works quite well) for pulling apart PVC parts that have been put together without being glued. One way to undertake the process of pulling two parts are part (If the configuration is small enough). Is to put the whole thing into the freezer (the coldest part of the ...


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The frame is not supporting the weight of the water, but is used to provide a form for the canvas/vinyl that contains the water. Standard galvanized piping threaded into pipe fitting would be quite strong. You could use fittings like you linked to or standard threaded pipe fitting. You would need to add more vertical side braces on the sides and ends than ...


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The feed through a foundation or wall in my state requires a listed flanged pipe. I don’t know what the coating is but there is a coating to prevent corrosion from contact with cement products. The flange prevents movement of the earth causing a failure inside the home but I live in a seismic zone so movement is a possibility. Would I go back and update an ...


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Sounds like extra charge. There is normally little movement and little of no force pushing the pipe against the mortar. Presumably the gas line is buried and experiences only small temperature changes to cause longitudinal movement movement ( radial movement would be essentially zero). Putting foam rubber insulation on the exposed pipe is bad. Rain wets it ...


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Sounds like you're looking for a 3-way ball valve. Inasmuch as your use has one source and two destinations, the source would go to the middle port of this valve and the destinations would be fed from either side. (image from supplyhouse.com) It seems one of your concerns with using two ordinary valves is the possibility that the pump could be turned on ...


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You might want to check hot tub stores / online sites. This sound like the sort of thing they need all the time. That said it might be easier and simpler to have two sump pumps and separate piping. I'd worry about something going wrong and the waterfall pump pumping all the water out when you don't want it to. Jonathan


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I would use a pipe flange bolt that to the angle then one on the foot and they can be adjusted for height. I have made towel racks with these and even shower curtain rods. Holding a couple hundred lbs should be no problem. I would want cross braces so it won’t be wobbly unless a larger size is used. I just picked the first one I saw for an example.


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I would put a threaded floor flange on each leg and use that. It also has the added benefit of having a slightly wider base than the cap would and it would have a flat bottom, since it's designed to sit flush against a surface, while the cap is not designed for that. A threaded cap would work, as well, using the threading as your height adjustment. It may ...


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There is a range between "tight enough" and "too tight" - most alignment for NPT threads is done by using that. Then again, there are unions and compression fittings (Swagelok, and lesser versions) that remove the connection between the threads and the sealing surface. The vast majority of "complicated lab gas manifolds" I did ...


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First, check on what @ThreePhaseEel said then, as a "rule of thumb", a 2" pipe can carry the flow of 4- 1" pipes, so the 1" pipe will only carry 1/4 of water of the 2" supply pipe. Under a no flow condition the pressure will remain relatively the same but there will be reduced maximum flow and reduced pressure when a large flow ...


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You will need to install a flange to fit your existing pipe. Take some measurements and stop by your home store or a plumbing supply store. you'll probably need a close flange similar to the one below so you don't block that drain pipe As with all flanges, you will still need to drill holes into the floor to secure the flange to the floor.


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You need to install a toilet flange for cast iron. The only thing that looks weird is that side pipe that enters and would likely be blocked by installing this flange.


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