25

Nononono! Tell him to save his latex paint! I sometimes paint things at industrial sites. Latex works fine on the buildings, but when it is used on steelwork of any kind, it turns into an unmitigated disaster, that you pay for for decades. This is a metal thing left outdoors. It will have much higher extremes of temperature than a house's walls. It ...


12

A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.


9

The codes are nice, and they're usually pretty close. But, especially at the retail level, it's not an exact science. There can be variations even between buckets in the same purchase. Based on advice from family who have worked as a painting contractors for decades... When you buy paint, make sure to get enough for the entire job in one go. Make sure ...


8

A darker color absorbs more heat so yes it will heat the home more during the day. Your concern is valid. White is the least absorbent color and black is the most absorbent color.


5

Paint first You will have fewer things to mask/protect and fewer critical edges to deal with and less stuff getting in the way. If you have large areas that you know will never be exposed, you can skip them - or paint them generally (e.g., roller but not brush edges; or primer only) but not worry about getting it "perfect".


4

First, the human eye can distinguish millions of colors when they're laid right next to each other. However, in terms of seeing colors separately and trying to remember their matches, we are positively hopeless. Further, even small changes in light cause significant changes in perceived color even if you had a color sampling device, so cameras are as ...


4

I hate to tell you this, but you will have to either start over or make the stripes wider when you redo them. Unless you are some "gifted" artist, you aren't going to be able to free-hand those lines. The hardest part about your dilemma is the fact that the wall has a rough surface. It's going to be pretty hard to achieve a "perfectly" straight line. ...


4

If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall) If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint ...


4

Huh? Of course you will. Always. Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable. That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-...


4

You obviously have to coat the bottom face of each lap. How you do that is at your discretion, but full-size rollers don't make it easy. You'd need a big, sloppy paint load to get good coverage, and this leads to dripping and splatter. I've traditionally used a brush for the undersides. Do that first, then roll over the brush marks on the vertical face. ...


3

If you insulate your walls, you will thus be warmer during the summer and winter, and a black exterior would absorb sunlight and warm your house lightly. A white paint would reflect light and keep the outside of your house cooler.


3

I took the cans back to the store and asked for advice. Turns out, the two different colors (gold & brown) used two different base colors (stain & deep base vs. satin ultra deep base). I didn't realize it when I purchased the original cans of paint, because I just asked them to match specific colors. When I purchased the 2nd set of cans, I only ...


3

There are two problems: Matching the original color This generally involves finding some documentation - which you say you don't have - of the original paint. That is not at all unusual. But if you could find that original color then you could go to a paint store and they could mix up a small container to match the same basic specification. Paint stores ...


3

The short answer is that filler isn't commonly used to repair the surface of a wood floor. It may be used to fill gaps between planks where shrinkage has occurred, or to repair holes drilled for wiring, etc., but floors are usually either sanded aggressively to remove all surface damage, or the damage is left as "character". You may be able to lightly ...


3

28 years of experience as a painter .. what works best is a light sanding and then a very light dusting of the enamel spray paint . May require 2 light coats .. it is tricky and you will have to be very light handed with this so you don't create a noticeable " patched "area. Good Luck!


3

I use a shellac based primer for things such as this. It has better hiding ability then just paint or regular primer. Give it two or more coats and see if it hides the problem and then you can apply the final paint. If you still see a shadow after the shellac primer you could try a coat of bonding primer over the shellac primer.


3

Might be caused by the second layer shrinking beneath the third layer because it hadn't fully dried. In high humidity conditions, I generally increase the recommended drying time between recoats by 25%, just to be safe. Alternatively, if the backside of the door has been stripped and hasn't been resealed, the door itself may be expanding slightly due to the ...


3

You laid it on too thick, because nooks are tricky to paint for several reasons. This was greatly exacerbated by not using primer. Whenever the paint industry claims something, they mean it in a certain context. For instance I see a lot of brushes and rollers "for all paints". Yeah, they melt and come to pieces when I roll a marine LPU, because what ...


2

FWIW, I just talked to someone in the Austin, Texas Electric Distribution Department (Austin Utilities) and asked him about this. I am about to paint my house and I wanted to know if the utility company would turn off the power at the pole and what it would cost. He was a bit surprised at the question and said that people usually just paint around the ...


2

It matters because a brush transfers more paint than a roller and leaves marks in the finish. By cutting in the edges first and following with the roller you spread the brushed on paint further leveling the finish while removing brush marks. In other words the rolled finish, which is what you want, goes as close to the corner as you can get without bumping. (...


2

I'm not familiar with a "roller" vs "brush" primer. The only thing I can assume here is that is that they're describing "new drywall" (example) vs normal primer (example), where the former is thinner and cheaper. New drywall is porous and tends to absorb more paint as a result. New drywall primer is a thinner primer designed to fill those gaps and nothing ...


2

Yes, the link you posted is for the Regal Select Exterior Revive. This product is made specifically for Vinyl Siding. It is designed to be buckle-resistant and no primer is needed. I painted houses professionally for 11 years and all I used were Benjamin Moore products. I have used this on vinyl shutters and it works exceptionally well. Benjamin Moore is ...


2

You should use mineral spirits or mythle-hydride to dilute oil based paints. I don't really think that diluting the primer is the best solution though. It would be best to lay it on thick with a heavily padded roller and then back roll it out. Primers job is to seal and adhere. Thinning it will only prevent it from doing its job.


2

First, is that wood or brick column? A simple solution is to scrap some paint off of the column and take it to a paint store or home improvement store, they have the means to check he pigments and match the color for you.


2

metal door != plaster Plaster (or I suspect, drywall patching compound) is for drywall. Would work somewhat on wood. Metal? Not so much. I wouldn't use a white cover - it won't be exactly the same white, unless you paint it too. I'd recommend a metal cover in the same (or similar) finish as the lock. Something like this plate goes around the front back and ...


2

It depends on the type of wood and existing treatment on it. If it already has paint on it and you are painting a similar color it won't need as many coats as fresh wood. You have about 3100 SF to paint and you don't have any edging to worry about and it sounds like the everything is accessible. When you are painting outside you can be a little messier ...


2

Yes that is mold and it's very common bathrooms. Yes you can try to remove it yourself. Make a bleach solution with 1 tablespoon bleach and 1 cup warm water with 1-2 drops of soap. Dish washing soap is fine. Put on eye protection. Use an old toothbrush to scrub at the mold to remove it. The soap should help remove the mold and the bleach will help kill ...


2

I have found an acid etch is about the best and easiest methods. Most masons use muriatic acid at 15-30% with water you can go stronger but this is normally strong enough to etch the surface looking at your photo 15% may be plenty. I use a 2 part epoxy made for garages , don’t go cheap or you may find where you park your vehicle the paint peeling where you ...


2

As far as UV resistance, you're in luck. Multiple coatings stack, so the silver coating you'll be overtopping will still be 100% effective on whatever UV (if any) gets through your next layers. As far as reflective insulation, you have one choice: White with a 90%+ albedo. If your hope is to both have the roof reflect solar heat and also present multi-...


1

Since the holes are deep and there are many of them, I wouldn't try to paint them. I'd use a thin-nap (1/4") or foam roller and just paint the surface of the wall. If you keep the roller fairly well wrung out you shouldn't see significant squeeze into the holes. You might need to have a scrap of plywood or cardboard on hand to pre-roll, making the paint ...


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