8

Is that normal? NO, It should not be full of water. It's purpose is to drain water that flows into it so water does not spill over the top of the sink and on the floor. There is channel that the overflow water flows through to an opening in the drain. (If the proper drain with an opening was installed, some are not designed for an overflow). If the ...


6

I'm going to assume that there's not a trap inside the wall, but if I'm wrong please correct me. You're going to want to build a standpipe. Start by installing a P-trap into that pipe in the wall. It's hard to tell from the picture what type of pipe it is, but you'll want to use something compatible to make the connection between pipe and trap. From the ...


6

As mentioned in other posts, in the old days, we had laundry sinks/tubs that the washer drained into. The tub would fill up and then slowly drain. The tub acted as a "buffer" to temporarily hold water until the drain would catch up. My solution was to replace the 1 1/2" drain pipe with 3" pipe. I used a 3 to 1 1/2" reducing coupler ...


5

When discharging directly into a waste system without a standpipe, the connections must be "tight", as with a hose clamp to an appropriately sized tube connector, as shown in the manufacturer's instructions. The standpipe method is better (in my opinion) when connecting to existing waste systems with unknown capacity, because the standpipe can be sized to ...


4

You could try building your own washing machine "sump". Build a temporary storage tank for the water from your washing machine. You could use a (plastic) drum or bucket with a capacity which exceeds the total water capacity of your washing machine by at least 50% (100% or more would probably be better to be on the safe side). Let the washing machine drain ...


3

Not only is it ok, but Fluidmaster gives instructions on where and when to cut the overflow tube, as the follow photo shows. Fluidmasters Article states the following: The most important part inside the tank is the flush valves "overflow pipe." The overflow pipe is the safety net for your toilet. When properly set it will prevent water from overflowing ...


3

Most sinks and tubs in North America do have an overflow device, it's simply cleverly hidden. Bathroom sink overflows (which aren't always present -- ours lack them) are visible as North American bathroom sinks are almost universally single basin. However, North American kitchen sinks are often double basin -- and in a double basin sink, the divider doesn'...


3

My guess (and that's what it is) would be that overflow passages are known to be unsanitary. In an area intended for food preparation, the cultivation of mildew and bacteria would be a more serious concern, where it isn't so much of a concern in handwashing sinks and bathtubs. This article seems to support my hunch. It also suggests simple economics, as U.S....


3

In the UK I've never seen a kitchen sink without an overflow. They're universal on bathtubs as well. While they may not get used much in common use, they do come into their own if you get distracted while running washing up water, and distractions are common in kitchens, especially if you're trying to clean as you go.


3

I suspect this is simply because kitchen sinks are rarely operated by two-year-olds, and hence do not need training wheels.


3

(Answering my own question.) After trying a million things, I went with the destructive option. I used a metal file to shave a hole into the knob so I could access the screws on the plate behind it. I unscrewed the screws, turning the knob to be able to access each screw, and then took the whole assembly out. Afterwards, I soaked the still-fused-together ...


3

Water flows downhill In any downspout system, the water will flow from higher points to lower points. So when you install downspouts, you don't lay them flat; you install them with a slight slope, and you make the low points where the downspouts are. That way no matter where water lands in the gutter, it always flows toward a downspout. The trouble is ...


2

Bubbling of the toilet, along with gurgling sounds from drains, are usually signs of a blocked vent pipe. If your sink drains slowly at first, this is most likely the case. Unfortunately, clearing the vent often involves getting on the roof, removing anything visible on the vent pipe, and then clearing the vent with a garden hose or long snake. It's ...


2

Sounds like the sink and toilet share the same sewer pipe, and that pipe is starting to get clogged. Looks like the water coming from the sink is filling the pipe and the only place for the air in it to escape is the toilet.


2

I would start by removing the trap, putting a bucket underneath the tailpiece (below the sink) and just running some water and seeing what happens. Clean out the trap while you're at it and make sure there isn't a mess of hair stuck in there. If it all comes through without a problem and doesn't back up, then I would suggest buying a snake and going ...


2

It sounds like there are two problems. You seem to have a clog in the sewer line slowing the flow of water. You said it finally drains after a while. You also said the tank won't fill. This sounds like either the flapper is not seating properly, there is a leak between the bowl and tank, or the float has stopped working. You might need to snake the ...


2

All you need is a thick wire that can be bent into a U-shape at one end. Place the cover back into the outlet hole, insert the U-shaped wire into the outlet pipe and try to grab the outlet pipe to hold it in place. Lift the outlet pipe and slowly screw the top cover to the outlet. Tighten the top cover to the outlet pipe with a pair of pliers.


2

How much sewage overflow occurs? If it's only a small amount, like a cup or so, then a blocked vent could be the cause. As water runs down a drain pipe the air ahead of the water must be pushed out. If there's inadequate venting then the pressure build up in the drain can cause water to be expelled from the trap below the sink and tub. It could cause ...


2

I figured it out! Figured I'd answer my own question in case someone else has a similar lever. The lever handle was stuck onto the shaft. I just needed to force it off.


2

You need to assure that your refrigerator's metal chassis is firmly connected to the electrical supply's safety ground pin. Then, you need to assure that your house's wiring is tip-top as far as the safety ground. The receptacle's ground is connected properly to the panel's metal chassis, AND, the panel's chassis is properly connected to grounding rods, an ...


2

As said already, there should be no water in the overflow. The presence of water means that it is blocked. The bit marked with a ?? is an anti-syphon valve. It's not designed to be connected to anything. The overflow connection will be inside the main waste, which should have a slot in in to allow water through, like the picture below. Note the sq I had a ...


1

The answer is to install a large(r) standpipe. Some older homes have a 1 1/2" or 2" galvanized standpipe (with trap at the bottom) inside of the wall. Others have the trap on the outside of the wall, with a traditional thin-walled galvanized standpipe running up the wall from the trap. Both are undersized for newer washers with pump outputs that exceed ...


1

It's quite possible that there is hair or other gunk in the sink tailpiece or caught in the stopper. It absorbs some of the sewage and then gets really nasty. The stink could then freely travel out. Try taking out the stopper and cleaning any gunk you might find. This would solve the stink problem. To answer the question about the overflow being sealed.....


1

What you ask is out there, in the form of residential effluence treatment (septic). It utilizes float switches and a small analog or digital controller that automates exactly what your looking for. Research "septic pump tank design". You're looking for a system with 3 or 4 float switches installed. Parts for these systems are available all over the world.


1

So this morning I opened up the evaporator compartment and sprayed coil cleaner around. This evening, my patio is dry (where the overflow drain comes out) - I don't have water coming out anymore. It seems that the coils were either not draining properly or the airflow was misdirected by the dirty coils enough to disrupt the normal draining. Thanks @Tester101 ...


1

I would adjust the ballcock in the header tank to reduce the level of water there. When the boiler shuts off, it probably keeps the pump running for a short while to keep water circulating through the boiler to take away the residual heat. The zone valves are shut. Excess water is vented into the header tank raising the water level up above the overflow ...


1

Let me say first that I have never worked with this type of boiler, but the question you ask is similar to a few problems I have had with boiler systems here in the USA. I do not know if this is the same as your installation but I will tell you what I think may be the problem. Someone specifies a larger pump than necessary or a larger replacement pump for ...


1

The fill mechanism is worn out and needs to be replaced. If the reservoir fills up to where the water leaks out from the handle then the overflow pipe is too long and needs to be cut down. The newer type fill valves are adjustable for the height of the water in the reservoir. I prefer the fluidmaster but you can choose you own brand.


1

Alright, it took a bit of effort but we managed to take apart the drain construction (without breaking anything of course) so we could get deeper to unclog. Everything from the hose entry up to the neighbour's drain was already checked. The clog seems to have been a bit farther ahead, right about where my "diagram" stops. Lots and lots of gooey black gunk ...


1

Use two part epoxy after cleaning both the box and underside of bowl. Hold in place with duct tape over night. I sealed the next day with silicon but the epoxy alone was already tightly adhered and water tight. This was my third try in fixing using different sealants.


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