New answers tagged

2

Even if the element has continuity that doesn't mean that it's okay, I would error on the side of caution and discard an element that made a loud noise before smoke/fire came flowing out if it! They are not an expensive item, I would inspect the connection where it is attached to the circuit, where it is physically mounted and ensure there are no signs of ...


6

There are actually three ways (besides "pull the plug") that an oven can shut off in an emergency: Circuit breaker in your breaker panel. This trips if the oven uses too much power for too long - typically a short circuit, which can happen due to faulty components but more often due to components that wear out over time, including switches and ...


4

It's most likely the heating element in the oven blew. It's not going to be a blown fuse, they don't pop like that. A heating element in an oven can fail with dramatic sound effects! LOL. If you're comfortable working with live circuits, remove the oven heating element and test for voltage at its connections. If you have 240v or so, the element blew and ...


1

The spark ignitor also detects the flame, and it was positioned slightly too far from the burner so that it periodically detected no flame and shut off the gas. I bent the spark ignitor closer to the burner and now the oven stays lit. Thank you everyone for your help!


1

I have a Viking (2 ovens) range. I had to replace the igniters to get it to work right. There is a small oven with one igniter and the larger oven has 2. The stock igniters from Viking are junk. I found some better aftermarket igniters several year ago and haven't had an issue since. I wish I could remember the brand, but since product recommendations are ...


3

If you do not replace the timer-switch with the same timer-switch you will have made modifications to the oven that void its safety listing, whatever that may be for your locality. That will shift any liability from a failure of the oven that causes a house fire or the like from the manufacturer to you. It will also provide your insurer with an excuse not to ...


2

Theoretically you could. But keep in mind that: The switch needs to be capable of switching the full current & voltage. A quick search finds mixed answers - French manufacturer, all prices of anything (mostly used) in Euros, which would imply ~ 240V/50Hz. On the other hand, searching for the switch finds markings of 120V or 125V, 15A, 60 Hz. So not ...


2

Sorry the link above didn't work, those Germans must be protecting their data. Here is a screenshot of the part diagram that calls the bolt a Low head screw M5X4,8 part #21 on diagram. Depending on what browser you are using you may be able to right click on the screenshot and "open image in new tab", then expand the image. I'm guessing the comma ...


2

As far as I know (checked various sources but remember reading it previously somewhere on DIY SE), you can't use SOOW inside walls. Which is much the same as "you can't use NM (Romex) as cordage. They perform different functions, with different strengths/weaknesses. If you can't get proper NM (8 AWG or larger for the 40A, 6 AWG or larger for the 50A) ...


1

A 2" / 5cm spray can with duct tape wrapped around the bottom end - sticky side out - until it almost fits inside the glass cover, and then press into the glass cover and turn while keeping upward pressure into the glass cover. Worked well, but glass cover wasn't 'welded in' with old fat/oil etc.


1

Tried a few of the ingenious suggestions here but in the end I had success using two inch piece of kindling and a hammer. There was enough of a jagged edge on what was left of the glass for me to put one end of the wood against it and tap the other end in an anti clockwise direction. It’s nice when it starts to turn! The wood is soft enough not to cause ...


1

If you have one locally, go to a dollar store (like Dollar Tree, 99 Cents Only Store, etc.) and get an Appliance Bulb. I bought one at Dollar Tree recently. Cost $1 or so.


6

No, any 40W incandescent that is similar size and base will work just fine. I would buy these ones from Amazon. Replacement and a spare for $5.


5

Do you follow any of the warnings we give around here about the danger of 3-prong (groundless) range receptacles... and you think "Why does a 240V oven need 120V?" The oven light. That's right. The dangerous setup is solely so consumers can use ANY random 120V incandescent bulb they buy by the dozen (back in the day when everyone used ...


32

That is pure profiteering for folks silly enough to go to the appliance parts store for a light bulb. Far less expensive at a hardware store, or many other normal stores with lightbulbs. You need an "Appliance bulb" of the normal old incandescent flavor. Not a newfangled LED refrigerator bulb. Incandescent bulbs are perfectly happy at oven ...


3

You need to check if one phase of your supply is enough to power the whole oven. If it is, then leave the spare phase safely disconnected (in a way that won't let it come into contact with anything), and wire it like in that diagram. If not, check to see if they provide other diagrams. The use of three terminals marked 1, 2 and 3 strongly hints that the ...


1

I had exactly the same problem due to A long term tenant in our flat not telling us they'd broken the lamp cover. I took the hammer and nail punch approach., but with the punch angled so the glass would be pushed anti clockwise. This started it to turn, then I finished the unscrewing with pliars. NOTE : YOU MUST EEAR SAFETY GOGGLES BECAUSE TINY GLASS SHARDS ...


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