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For a flat roof I wouldn't just apply a primer and paint. That might work with something with a pitch but I am getting from your question it is just a big flat deck area. Meaning there should be some sort of membrane (silicone, rubber, epoxy, there are lots of choices) then a sealant. Sealant in most cases is not made to be walked on so just putting ...


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You really need a sealer. White is chosen to reflect the heat AND this will last longer than black. When we used hot tar on roofs we then painted them silver or white. If we did not do this the tar would end up in puddles. Primers are made to seal wood and wall coverings, not a concrete roof. You need a coating with some “body” that maintains flexibility ...


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Never use fire brick exposed to the weather where it can freeze. Fire brick is porous and it will absorb moisture, freeze, then expand and crack (spall). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_brick Also, the mortar is the wrong type for exterior weather conditions. There is high density fire brick, but is not common, used in chemical situations and is ...


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10-15 pounds seem heavy for a mailbox but even plastic drywall anchors are rated higher than that for so I don't think the weight is going to be a problem. That's a drywall anchor. A lead anchor look similar and is typically used on brick siding but depending on depth of stucco it is possibly you could rely on a lead anchor in stucco. What you really want ...


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No! The wire is (almost certainly) only rated for 20A. If the breaker is tripping because more than 20A is flowing, then uprating the breaker will mean more than 20A flows through the wires, your wires heat up, and your house burns down. (If the breaker is tripping because it's a GFCI breaker and there is a ground fault, then a 30A GFCI breaker will also ...


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Diode in reverse parallel with Led (or Led with limiting resistor). Should give you a halfwave rectified 60hz sine & the Led will still light up, but some people might notice said flicker. You might compensate the flicker by evening out sinewave with simple RC. Might be all simpler than a bridge rectifier circuit.


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Isopropyl alcohol in the key hole and holes of shackle


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That little hole that doesn't have a screw inside actually does have a screw. It's an set screw and needs a special tool to remove it. You'll need a set of allen wrenches. You can pick up a set at your favorite home store.


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Yes, you can extend off the LOAD terminals on your GFCI (Hot+neutral from LOAD, ground from the pigtail splice). How hard do you expect to use this outlet? If you're using ordinary tools up to about 1900 watts, then 12 AWG wire will be fine. If you expect to max out the 2400W capacity of the circuit on a regular basis, then you are just on the cusp of ...


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A 20 AMP breaker you can run #12 but if you're going to install the PVC conduit, use 3 #12 THHN/THWN-2 wires, black, white & green. You don't need the direct buried cable when using conduit. If you can feed it from the box your existing GFCI is in, then you could connect to the load terminals of it. If you're connecting elsewhere you'll need a GFCI ...


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