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I interpret the question to be not about tread depth or riser height, but the remaining, load-bearing portion of the stringer (dimension Z), and the height and depth of the upper stringer heel (dimensions X and Y). Here are some general thoughts... The remaining thickness (perpendicular to the bottom edge) generally shouldn't be much less than it is below ...


4

Is there a minimum distance that a tread run needs to be on a stringer? No. Nobody cares if the tread is on a "stringer" or not as long as the tread is dimensioned properly and supported adequately. An existing board that is already there and is adequately supported by a structure other than your stringer is perfectly acceptable, as would be an ...


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OSHA 1910.25(c)(3) requires standard stairs to have a minimum tread depth of 9.5 inches (24 cm). IBC 1011.5.2 requires that stair treads be 11 inches (279mm) minimum measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads and at a right angle to the treads leading edge. IRC See Fredric Shope's answer. OSHA and IBC ...


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IRC says 10" minimum but there are likely exceptions. I've heard that more important than meeting code-mandated minimums is consistency. Even with narrow stairs and short runs, the rise must be consistent from step-to-step (luckily, this is easy to calculate) because tripping is extremely likely with inconsistent rise over a span of stairs. See the ...


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Fabric hammocks. Get strong fabric. Ideally some synthetic stuff that is weatherproof. You could find a piece big enough to use a whole sheet. Or you could weave nylon webbing straps into something like a cargo net. Put it over open hole in chair. Wrap it around the edge of the chair seat hole and attach it to itself. You could sew it or you could use ...


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Whole new base & cushion is the probable best route, or at least a new base if the cushion is not as degraded as I'd expect with the wood rotting out under it. Can it be done with a handsaw? - yes. Can you do it with a handsaw? Sure, if you are careful. Or you can hire someone, or have the part made (which is another way of hiring someone.) The usual &...


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I'm a carpet installer; I use mineral spirits to clean glue. When installing glue-down carpet, you should use a 1/16th notched trowel and spread it evenly with no glops, and right up to all edges. You also need to wait till it dries and is tacky (1/2 hour more or less) before you lay the carpet down. This avoids the issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=...


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Try penetrating oil after you have tried diluted vinegar. Try saturating a paper towel and placing on the corrosion for a few minutes and see if that clears your problem. Be sure to clean afterwards or the vinegar can destroy the aluminum. Using a small brush such as a toothbrush to brush the vinegar solution on and every minute or so for a few times and it ...


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We have sheets of neoprene insulation as thin as 1/8” all you need to do in reality is prevent condensation even spray foam in the hole allowing it to encapsulate the lines will be enough. Don’t worry about your tape skills you are really just preventing uv exposure as this breaks down the insulation. Tape also seals from air movement again helping to ...


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How about cutting the blocks in the base course? Use a full 8" high block at the low end and trim each successive block 5/16" more working your way to the high end of the project. Trimming the blocks exactly to height isn't super critical; so long as they're within say 1/2" of the needed height the mortar bed beneath the block should fairly ...


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I'm just summarising the answer I got from Ed Beal within the comments, for future reference. When I was in the Air Force zinc chromate primer on the aluminum is what is used on air craft for the primer, there are many types , I found the self etching zinc chromate the best for aluminum then whatever paint you used stuck to the primer. I had an aluminum ...


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