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A bunch of pieces of concrete will always be a bunch of piece of concrete, any jointing compound that's weaker than the reinforcing bars in the concrete is at best temporary. Pavers can hide a multitude of sins.


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It would definitely be an improvement. Get some knee pads because you'll be down there for awhile. They have all sort of epoxy concrete fillers that do a great job on cracks,,, just need a clean, dry surface. Get a good concrete paint to finish off the job. That post in the back looks like it's in need of repair too. Good luck.


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This sounds like a poor connection, that is also crossing over into "arc fault". It should be readily apparent; when you touch it, it'll be warm or hot.


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A hairline crack? which also burns gas? So you should STOP using this at once, it is NOT safe. Get it repaired by a competent person.


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Painting may be your best friend here, but I hate to be the bearer of bad news. Where the purlins meet the OSB will never be painted unless they are removed, then after they are painted, the holes from the nails holding the purlins in place may be the weak spot.


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Animal watering troughs make for low cost and easily implemented "instant" planters that are (or start out) light weight for the strength they provide. You can cut down on the weight of the soil by putting in a layer of crumpled soda cans or plastic water bottles in the bottom. I like the looks of the plain galvanized metal ones, but you can paint them if ...


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I have not used hemlock but I have repaired decks that were made of it. I would definitely go with the PT. Just make sure you specify that the PT will have ground contact. From a lot of personal experience, I'd go with stainless steel screws for planking, galvanized bolts for framing and avoid sinking posts in concrete unless you wrap them in plastic. Good ...


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Pressure treated will last significantly longer. Hemlock performs about the same as Southern Pine and its above ground life is significantly less than treated pine’s in ground life. In ground, you can’t expect untreated wood to last more than 3-5 years. In ground, I think you can reasonably expect pressure treated to last six times longer (even more if you ...


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I have built 3 outdoor barbecue’s each one had fire brick in the pit and lining the flu. One in Ohio and 2 In Oregon the last one is still used regularly after 17 years and is holding up fine. The first one in Ohio I was only there for 3 years but it was ok while we were in that house.


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Normally fire brick is not exposed to weather. The fire brick is only used to line the interior of fireplace and the chimney. Actual fire brick is more expensive than ordinary brick. I expect fire brick would be as weather resistant as regular brick unless you mean a porous insulating brick which would absorb water.


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It is a personal preference to seal or not to seal. I have sand stone night stands. When we purchased I sealed incase I knock a cup of coffee over or spill something that would stain the surface I don’t want it looking bad. Yes things have spilled and they still look good. Another possible reason for sealing outside work is if it freezes hard. At my current ...


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Sounds like a place for a motorized retractable awning. These can be fitted with a variety of fabrics, including a sun mesh. The mesh filters sunlight and on a slope sheds most of the water. Or get fancy and install two motorized awnings: one for shade the other for rain.


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Sunlight, no. "Breathable", yes. That's what "Gore-tex" fabric is famous for. They were the first / biggest, but now many other suppliers have released similar breathable waterproof fabrics made from PTFE (a.k.a. "teflon") fibers. I don't think however that Gore-tex makes anything clear or even opaque. And go get a second mortgage on your house if you want ...


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