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55

It was installed incorrectly. It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks ...


30

Absolutely no problem. The screws (actually called "lag bolts") bite into the wood immediately around them, and the wood fibers around that hold the bolt in place. Yes the holes you made already weaken the fibers immediately around them but the amount is insignificant. And, for a flat screen TV like you're describing, the weight you'll be putting on ...


29

The traditional solution for a pulled out towel rack is to remove the towel rack, patch the holes (usu two on each end) and place the rack slightly higher or lower. An experienced or inventive person can patch the existing hole and, by adding reinforcement, remount in the same location. These racks are secured to a pair of metal brackets on the wall with ...


24

Your TV is being supported by two pieces of paper. That should be all you need to know. The white plaster material in the middle of drywall resists compression. The interaction between the shaft of the bolts and the inner plaster is keeping the load from shearing straight down the wall and will support a significant load. However, on the front and back of ...


24

Cut some short strips of plywood or even paneling (long enough to overlap both sides of the hole by a couple of inches). Don't cut your fingers off. Put the plywood strip(s) in the hole and position the strip so it is extending out beyond both edges of the hole, behind the sheetrock. Hold the strip tightly by pulling outward on the back of strip with your ...


22

TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs. There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws: Anchors Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally ...


21

Not only will you need to get your local inspector's approval, in writing (and the inspector will defer to Underwriter's Laboratories or other NRTL, so we're talking about getting a UL listing for your one-off) ... ... But all your thermostat wiring must now be re-done in Class I wiring methods Because you are intermixing thermostat control power with ...


17

Gypsum board (drywall, plasterboard, wallboard) is not a structural material, its only purposes are to prevent you from seeing into the next room and to conceal utility lines and structural members within the wall. Drywall anchors are great for hanging small picture frames, little decorative shelves, and other similar knickknacks, they are not for hanging ...


17

I'd try a few of these keyhole mounting plates: You'd need to be very precise with screw placement so everything lines up properly. If you're feeling adventurous, you could chisel or route out a recess so the whole thing is flush against the wall. You could also mount the plates to the wall at a stud, using sufficiently long screws, and then use smaller ...


17

Do not use drywall anchors to hang a TV that large on a swivel mount. If it was a mount that didn't have motion, I might say that's acceptable, but not with a swivel mount. You will need to use wood in some form to add the necessary strength. Plywood can be attached to the wall studs using 3-1/2" lag bolts with fender washers. To provide a clean finish, ...


17

As both bib and Johnny have said, the simplest way to do this is to use two separate ropes. You can either manually pull on both ropes at the same time, or the ropes can be tied together prior to each reaching its first pulley away from the wall (A & B in the image below). Alternately, as Alchymist mentioned in a comment, you can use a single rope with ...


17

It shouldn't be a problem. MDF doesn't have the best screw-holding strength, but TP holders are very light so it shouldn't be an issue. If you are concerned, you could put longer (1") bolts - not screws - through the MDF and put nuts on the back, so you're not relying on the pull-out strength of the MDF to hold the screws.


16

You might consider mounts like z-clips These are listed as 1 7/8 inches high overall, but you might be able to trim the height (a little off the top piece, a little off the bottom) to just a bit less than the thickness of a 2x4, recess them into the back of the piece, leaving a small lip of wood at the top to conceal the mount (the bottom would have to be ...


16

In the US code prohibits the panel from being in the vicinity of easily ignitible material with clothes closets specifically listed NEC 240.24.D. So based on that I would say it's not a good idea.


13

Get to the Studs Regular anchors are fine for an ordinary towel bar. But not for a grab bar. For regular anchors to work here, you would need to (a) patch the drywall, (b) install the towel bar with heavy-duty anchors and hope the patch is strong enough to hold them and (c) teach the tenant - and future tenants - to not use the towel bar as a grab bar. The ...


13

Trying to mount an articulating arm that is designed to mount to a single stud will not stand up mounted to that type of wall construction. Even with long lag bolts there is just too much chance that mount will move around and cut into the drywall, become loose and make a mess of things. What you should be doing is to mount a panel of good quality 3/4" ...


12

I would not risk hanging a glass shelf with those strips. They are meant for hanging things directly from (like a towel, hair dryer, etc.), not a shelf that sticks out. Instead of just pulling down on the strip, it will pull down and away, almost a guaranteed recipe for broken glass. Unfortunately there is no way to anchor something to the wall without ...


12

Metal studs are great for framing walls. They are super light, easy to work with, straight. But you've discovered one drawback...they don't have nearly the strength of a wooden 2x4 for mounting things to it. Metal studs do come in different gauges though. The heavier, the better. But it sounds like yours are fairly lightweight. Some options: take down ...


12

It's going to be more secure to use the studs, but depending on the weight of what you're hanging, it may not be necessary. If you're hanging more than 40+ pounds, I'd go ahead and use the studs. Instead of using wood screws or lag bolts as you would use in wood studs, use toggle bolts similar to the Toggler brand that you mentioned. Starting from the ...


11

In theory, a perfectly balanced load and frictionless pulleys would result in a level rise. But lack of balance and friction are always with us. The simplest way to ensure a level rise is to use two separate ropes, tied together on the pulling end, similar to the mechanism for venetian blinds. Note that the load is divided by 4 in the current setup (two ...


10

If you have a wall, you have structure. If your wall is masonry then the TV mount can likely be mounted directly to the masonry (or mounts are available which can). If your wall is drywall then you must have structure behind it... perhaps your studfinder is malfunctioning or you're using it improperly? Studs can usually be found beside original electrical ...


10

Why, of course! You're looking for a "magnetic catch". Just you should possibly install it the other way around - a metal plate on the wall, and the catch screwed on the mirror. Images added: Magnet mounted as plug in the cabinet with large head screw contact Magnet in cup washer and mating contact washer mounted with screws Thin magnet to metal plate


10

This happens when bathroom fixtures are only fastened to drywall -- such fixtures are easily ripped out. If you have young children, they will be mysteriously compelled to swing like monkeys from these. Don't ask how I know. Here's how I permanently fix such fixtures: Remove the fixture, if it's still partially attached to the wall. Use a 3" hole saw to ...


10

Now that I see your photo I'd do this differently. I'd install a vertical cleat just behind the faceframe on each side of the cabinet, maybe 1" back (the thickness of the plate plus 1/4"). I'd then span a sheet of 3/4" plywood across them, creating a solid face on which to install your mount. You should have either a cabinet wall or framing to screw into. ...


9

TV wall mounts should always be mounted directly onto studs if the total weight is that much. If all mounting screws are going into studs, the drywall thickness is irrelevant. Drywall anchors are a great invention, but not suited for the kinds of load and forces a swivel wall mount exerts. If you can't mount the wall mount onto studs for some reason (like, ...


9

DO NOT DO IT!!!! Chimney vents must not be compromised! All heat and gas related stacks must be left intact. No additional venting or other holes may be put in them. As the comments have noted, you run the serious risk of carbon monoxide poisoning, as well as the risk of chimney and house fires. Find another route well away from the chimney.


8

This should be OK, but I would recommend attaching the 2x4s to studs on both sides of the TV, not just the right side as you've shown. You don't want the weight of the TV to pull the 2x4s away from the wall on the left side. A 55" TV is going to be heavy and the eccentricity caused by the spacing of the wood and the bracket will cause it to pull away. ...


8

You would need to mount wooden strips along the walls that screw into the studs. Then the desktop sits on top of those strips and is fastened from the underside to the strips. To achieve a more sleek look you could also consider the use of some lengths of aluminum angle iron that is screwed into the studs and into the bottom side of the desk surface. ...


8

If you are flexible about the location that the towel bar is mounted then there is a relatively easy path to getting this repaired. There are two main steps involved with this. If you really want to keep the towel hanger in the same location then there is another way you could repair it in place but it involves more work. It's not really hard to do but takes ...


8

By not excluding drilling into the wall, you may have more options at hand. The first configuration that comes to mind is a modification of the "hidden shelf" design. Drilling a hole in the studs to take bolts forming a line to support the bottom of the sign would be similar to the hidden shelf construction. A piece of trim cut with a rabbet with the lip ...


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