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8

No, you can not mount the TV the way you have described. Since you want the TV to articulate out from the wall, most of the force will be pull-out instead of shear. The barn boards are not attached to the wall in such a way to support your TV. It's likely you would rip the barn boards right off the wall, or break one where you drill for the toggle bolts. ...


7

I agree with unhandledexcepsean--I would use lag bolts for larger TVs. Some flat screens will be fine with the wood screws through the drywall into the stud not using the plastic expanding anchor. I have seen some smaller mounts where 4 of the plastic anchors into drywall are supposed to work but I do not like those at all. Since you have at least 1 stud, ...


7

With another floor above try removing the plate on the face of the box and see if there are some screws that are loose you can tighten, if no screws , push the box up is it hitting something? That will be a cross brace to screw into. The box is usually less than 2-1/2 deep and with a floor above there should be 6-12 “ clear above the box other than the brace,...


6

Ceiling fan boxes only have to support 35 lbs. ceiling fans (according to NEC), unless they are designed to support more. In which case they will be marked with the amount they can support, up to the maximum of 70 lbs. So no, I would not recommend hanging a punching bag (assuming a heavy bag) from a ceiling fan bracket.


5

You don't want an SDS plus chuck, that drill is going to be mostly for drilling masonry. You could get an adapter to use regular bits with the SDS chuck but it's not what you really want. There are drills with a regular three-jaw chuck that have a hammer setting for masonry, they aren't as good as the SDS chuck drills in masonry but more than adequate ...


5

Plan 2 (solid plywood) for the win. That kind of weight (with extra leverage) would be terrible in just drywall with a single stud. Speaking of leverage, if you can consider making the strip of ply a little taller (like, 2'), it should be a little more solid. (Admittedly, this might be overkill.) In addition to getting the plywood into at least 2 studs, you'...


4

Studs above a fireplace are often placed flat instead of on edge against the brick/chimney. This is done so the wall can be thinner in that area. So I think you are you are right in saying you think the wide face of the stud is against the back side of the drywall. I really encourage you to re-think the idea of placing a TV up high over a fire-place. This ...


3

I'd try for mounting into a joist. There's one joist that the box is mounted to, so might luck out and have one very close to where you want the lights and be able to put an eye screw into some wood. Otherwise, nothing wrong with toggle bolts or other similar drywall anchors that spread the weight over a small area.


3

Toggle bolts. Put them in the drywall on either end. There's no chance it will pull out. Let me expand on this by telling you a true story. I bought a house that had been reposessed by the bank. I can only assume the previous owners ransacked the place (even the fireplace mantle had been removed) and the bank had hired a contractor to come in and replace ...


3

I have a battery powered timer that is similar to what you have and it looked not so sturdy so I purchased a hose hanger like this and drilled 2 holes for the hose to enter and exit. The small storage space keeps the unit dry and out of site. It still looks new after 3 years. The second unit on the back side of the barn failed in less than 2 years (not ...


3

Most every mount I've seen has several holes through which it can be secured to studs. This is to account for different stud spacing, as well as allow for several lateral positions so that the TV is not off center. Double check your mount instructions, to ensure it will not accommodate your stud spacing. I'm very suspicious that the mount says it must be ...


3

Quick version: You have metal studs. Install tips below. Long version: This is a good question with a lot of detailed information; kudos. Perhaps I am missing something, but the information provided leads to a clear conclusion IMHO. A building that tall built in the 90s in the US will have metal studs (99%+ chance?), so what you're finding matches ...


3

Replace that goofy Edison socket with a coverplate for a receptacle. Now you have a dual receptacle that is switched by the garage light switch. Hang the lamps by chains. And then plug their plugs into the receptacle. It gives you the versatility to move the lights around to suit, and allows easy swap or addition of a fixture. Flexible cordage, as a ...


3

While there's no problem mounting things to particle board as others have described, 1/2" is just too thin to work with. I would mount another board under your desk using construction or wood glue, at least doubling the current thickness of the top. After that has set up for a day, I'd mount with 3/4" screws (or longer, depending on final thickness), ...


3

You do not need to be concerned, assuming that your lag screw is anchored into the framing. That's a result of a pre-existing gap behind the drywall. Maybe some insulation or a wrinkle in the vapor barrier held it out during initial hanging, and your lag screw pulled it in tight. Because there was a drywall screw there holding it out the surface bulged as ...


3

Most important You need to look at the requirements of your TV mount. If you're mounting into the 1.5" depth of a stud on the flat instead of the 3.5" depth of a stud on edge, your mounting bolts don't have as much wood to bite into and won't hold as much weight. If you have a big mount for a big TV, it may call for lag bolts longer than 1.5". You can, ...


2

It looks like a "Triple Grip" brand anchor. I have similar anchors. The box says 77 pounds in 5/8 inch drywall. No specification for 1/2 inch. [


2

The best way to deal with this problem is to first mount a suitable piece of 3/4" plywood on the wall such that it spans to studs where it can be securely attached. The TV mount can then be mounted to the plywood using suitable screws that go into properly sized pilot holes. Note that face screwing into the plywood provides an excellent and strong mount ...


2

No... those expanding bolts aren't going to do the job, period. There are several reasons but suffice it to say your TV will find up on the floor. Toggle bolts of some variety are the preferred way to do it... it's hard to believe that no one in a city the size of yours has them or something more suitable. What you need is something that will spread the ...


2

I would fasten a "furring strip" (a piece of perhaps 2x2) to the wall at the top of the screen. Make it the same width as the screen, but screw it into the studs inside the wall (NOT just into the drywall sheet-rock) Then hang the screen from that. I would paint the strip black before installation to minimize visual interference. Depending on what kind of ...


2

The plywood plan sounds fine. The lag bolts through the plywood into the studs need to be long enough to go through the plywood, through the drywall, and engage about 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" into the stud proper - not any further or you risk hitting electrical gear. For best results, pre-drill a hole into the stud somewhat smaller than the minor diameter (all-...


2

The arched notches in the rear skirt are intended to accept heavy bolts with rubber pads and washers. Be sure that you have solid backing where the bolts will need to go. Install two-by lumber, wide face forward, between studs where needed. Be sure they're well anchored. Finish your room. Paint should be complete and well cured. Install the sink by ...


2

When I mount a shop light across unfinished joists, I just screw the fixture directly to the joists. My lights can be disassembled from the front, so I mounted the back plate first and then attached the front. I use at least four screws in a rectangle. This prevents wobbling. Some of my lights are parallel to the joists, so I placed 3" x 3/4" strips ...


2

You can see the angled mounting bracket hanging down under the sink. The bracket is what holds the sink firmly on the wall, the lower holes in the sink are for keeping the bottom of the sink from being pulled away and up from the wall once it is lowered down onto the bracket. The top holes have nothing to do with the mounting of the sink. The bracket ...


2

I know that your desire is to not mount any more wood but from the description that you gave it seems like the very best choice is to actually mount a 1x4 or 1x6 board across the width of the wall and screw into the various studs. Such board could even be full room width or at least longer than the backdrop width. If this board had the screw heads counter ...


2

1/2" plywood would be fine. If the hardware has keyhole mounting holes, I'd get 1/2" pan head screws for that. Get whatever size would fit the keyhole. Disclaimer: YMMV, IMHO there's no fire risk, despite all the hardware, there's very little power actually being drawn, so I wouldn't worry about that. Command (brand) hooks are usually the go-to for ...


1

I have exactly this scenario over my basement and garage workbenches. Just screw the fixture to the joists over the box so that the fixture is tight to the box. You can either move the box up flush with the bottom of the joist or add spacers behind the fixture where you place the screws. As long as everything is tight together and things can't move around ...


1

Yes, you'll be fine. The TV won't fall off the wall unless the drywall itself fails (i.e. water damage or earthquake) or someone hangs off of it.


1

If there are brackets (straps) on both sides about 1/3 of the way down from the top, then you could use S-hooks in the straps (remove the center clamping screw) and string a heavy steel wire between them. Then hook the wire on a heavy nail into a stud or use one of the new stronger hangers like a WingIt into drywall.


1

The rack is 28 inches wide. Its bound to be over at least one stud. How did you try to locate? Did you use a good stud finder? Look for hints for where a stud might be, like an electrical outlet below. (electrical boxes are usually mounted on a stud). Also a magnetic stud finder would find nails and screws. I would try again to find at least one stud and ...


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