14

The immediate issue I see is that a floodlight is not great for lighting a room. They cast harsh shadows, create a lot of glare if you look anywhere near their direction, and will leave plenty of dark areas in the room. Of course, a few of those downsides could be fixed by just installing regular light bulbs rather than flood bulbs unless it has integrated ...


10

Due to medical conditions I need lots of light and I don't due well with harsh direct lighting or shadows. For lots of light, I have often installed alternate 'outdoor' lighting inside. I even have a 18000 lumen high bay light! To deal with the harshness, I often install in an 'indirect mode' with the light pointing upward with the light bounced off the ...


5

You can probably replace the switches with those sensors, but you're going to have to do some creative wiring to work around the fact that they're not 3-way switches, but the switches you're replacing with them are. You'll likely end up with the light being on whenever either of the switches is on. You also might run into trouble if they ran the 3-way ...


5

Passive infrared sensors (PIR), use Infrared (IR) light to detect motion. Unfortunately for you, infrared light does not travel through glass so well.


5

You used the wrong clamp, so the grounding path is broken The particular occupancy sensor you are using uses the rather ugly kludge of sending its operating current back "home" via the equipment ground, rather than the neutral. This worked in the old setup because you were using a proper multi-barrel connector to bring the type AC cables into the box, ...


4

Many occupancy sensors allow you to adjust the amount of time that they can't see you before they shut the lights off. I'm not sure what model you have, so I can't instruct you exactly how to adjust, but setting the timeout time to something longer would probably save you the trouble of building something to circumvent it. For example, a panel on this ...


4

You didn't say if you already had lighting in your closet or not. If you don't, I would suggest buying a stick-up (battery-operated) LED light with a motion sensor. (In my area, most retailers have several models like this.) Most interior motion sensors are combined with a switch, so if you don't want a switch then you may be out of luck.


4

First we must determine whether your motion sensors are wired or wireless. Wired The wired PIR motion sensors used in security systems since roughly forever are pretty simple devices. You feed them 12 volts dc to power the electronics; they contain a relay which opens or closes to indicate motion. Some will have a SPDT relay so that the installer can ...


4

Absolutely! Most motion sensors are IR (infrared) detectors and they can "see" heated air as it moves. If it moves fast enough it may trick the sensor into thinking that it's a human vs. just heated air. In your case the heater may be hitting the sensor directly with its IR output. Try redirecting your sensor so that it doesn't pick up heated air output ...


4

You could combine a standard Occupancy Sensor: with a Relay: The Occ Sensor controls the relay, and you use the relay's Normally-Closed terminal to power your Outlet, something like this: So when the Occ Sensor is off, your outlet is on. You would probably need a 2-gang box to be able to fit the sensor, the relay and all the connections (the relay is ...


3

I have a similar situation in my restroom. My sensor is in the room and the time constant is 1 minute only. Each pulse of the motion sensor will reset the 1-minute timer, so after the door is closed from the outside (the last movement the sensor detects) the light will stay for 1 more minute and then be switched off. Everyone in the house is used to ...


3

Put the sensor in the space you are trying to light, and suddenly this "common need" becomes "not a need at all" which is why you can't find them, since that's how it's done, when done conventionally. Either move the switch into the room or get a remote sensor switch and put the sensor in the room.


3

Reading between the lines ... Where I live, a normal domestic lightswitch works like this Fusebox Ceiling Switch ======= ======= live ====== Live ----------------------o------------->------o/ o-. Earth --------------------o-------------------- | Neutral ----------------o |...


3

The motion sensor's circuits are probably being confused by a voltage spike caused by an inductive kick from the fan. The voltage levels in the device are disturbed, reversing some voltage comparison so that the light is activated. The problem can be attacked at either end. Containing the surge at or near the fan, or preventing its entry into the motion ...


3

What you are looking for is a VOC (volatile organic compounds) monitor or a IAQ (indoor air quality) monitor. They do exist for residential applications and are way much cheaper than the industrial counterparts; however, their detection/sensitivity level may not be as great. You can try your luck by searching for "iaq monitor" on Amazon and eBay. Prices may ...


3

There are more choices than you might think http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/SectionDisplay.jsp?section=38557&minisite=10251 I am thinking you might want a 3-way, manual on, auto off. But whatever Pattern, Coverage, Time delay, or Switch type, you will likely find it here. You can get leviton stuff anywhere, it is likely one of these would be a special ...


3

Unless the sensor/light is connected directly to power, the switch will always have to be in the ON position for the light to come on. The switch is installed to interrupt the ungrounded (hot) conductor, so that when it's in the OFF position no power goes to the light. If you want power to the light, you'll have to leave the switch on. In other news, ...


3

To make a true 3-way motion detector switch -- as opposed to a motion detector with a remote, or a motion detector in series with a normal switch -- the motion detector has to be able to monitor whether power is being drawn through either of the travellers and which traveller it is currently connected to. If no power is now flowing, to turn on flip to the ...


3

These units also detect heat changes. Make sure the HVAC vent isn't blowing warm or cool air onto the detector or into its view of the space.


3

Yes, there are. Some speak the X10 carrier-current signalling protocol, some use more modern communications. Obviously you would need to buy compatible components. A good home-automation catalog or a website on that topic could give you product suggestions; we don't generally do that here.


3

The item you are looking for is a PIR lens. These are typically sold in bulk, but now that you know the name of it, you should be able to google for one to purchase. An example one is here


3

Unfortunately, the Installation Guide doesn't say much. It shows the two black wires but does not have any indication as far as which one goes to hot vs. switched-hot. The implication is "it doesn't matter". However, the marketing information (and the installation by omission) makes it clear that no neutral is required. But the switch has to get ...


3

Yeah. That old clamp wasn't perfect (one NM in a 3-AC clamp), but what you did there with the new clamp was a complete hork job. That clamp is made for 1 NM cable. You just spammed your 3 cables in there "like the old one was" even though this new clamp is obviously not like your old one. Leaving individual wires on the dangle should've been your clue ...


3

I have one in the garage. It is great because when you walk into the garage a light comes on and you don't have to hunt for a switch. If you are just carrying laundry down or getting into the car it is sufficient and will go off after you leave. If you are doing anything much in the garage it is the wrong light for all the reasons everybody said, but you ...


3

i used the following to make an "inverter" out of aftermarket code-friendly devices when i was renting and couldn't mod anything permanent: a cheap always-on LED nitelight and a screw-in dusk-to-dawn(d2d) sensor. I tape the nightlight to shine into the d2d's sensor. Now, when power is provided to the nightlight, the d2d socket turns off. You can ...


2

You will have to install the motion sensor (if it is rated 110v) in the feed to the low voltage system. that is, hot going to switch, then motion sensor, then low voltage transformer then low voltage lights. that is, sensor powered by 110v, feeding transformer


2

I know that that's an old thread but you can use the anti-static bag used in electronic: works like a charm for me. Regards


2

A 2-gang box simply holds 2 single-gang devices. You need the single-gang device, the hard part will be finding the correct faceplate to use.


2

Many models seem to be sensitive to power surges. A lighting storm or frequent episodes of lights flickering have destroyed several of my sensors over the years. Some models have a switch on the detector head. The switch may allow you to test the unit by placing it in test mode. If that option is not available you will have to disassemble the fixture and use ...


2

I've done this. I have a great solution. Simply take the hot circuit to the sensor and to the light switch and run them in parallel. The only downfall is that you won't be able to turn the light off when the sensor has control. But I haven't found this to be a problem.


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