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Honestly, the best option for a bench that expects hard use is a sheet of 1/8" "tempered hardboard" - I don't know if that's one of those places where we are separated by a common language or not. Masonite® is the best known brand name, though they make multiple products so that may not be definitive. You put a trim board sticking up 1/8" ...
5
MDF may be marginally more stable, but in my extensive experience it's far too fragile to be used for house trim. I wouldn't install it if it was free. It dents and scratches like nothing.
If you're doing a typical bedroom you shouldn't have field joints, as either is available in 16-foot lengths. Even if you do, a well-glued and well-nailed miter won't ...
5
That bit is a countersinking bit.
5
I would sand the horizontal trim at the top down until it meets the diagonal trim. You'll want to extend the sanding horizontally to make a smooth transition from "full thickness" at the good joint to the left to "reduced thickness" where these two pieces meet. This will help hide the difference in thickness.
Once that's done, I would ...
4
Depends on size. For significant blems, I'd try wood putty, handling it as if it were joint compound. If that didn't work, I might just give up and actually use joint compound...
However, remember that for small nichs and scratches paint itself can fill small irregularities, especially if you scuff-sand between coats or otherwise actively level the surface.
4
Depending on how fussy you are, the best thing to look like drywall is drywall. It may also be the least expensive thing that looks like drywall.
I have built a bookcase (attached to the floor and ceiling, so functionally a wall) with a drywall backing, mudded the drywall as usual and indeed the other side looks just like a wall. You have to accept that you ...
4
If your doorframes are MDF any patching is going to be visible to some degree. I would try filling it (with slight overfill) with wood putty and sanding it as smooth as you can using finer grit (220) for the finish. It all depends how particular you are - it's very difficult to get a perfect mend on this.
The only other option is replacing that side of the ...
4
ANYTHING is better than MDF for your project as it is a terrible material for furniture, especially custom made furniture. Also you can't use a router on MDF - well you can but it will not turn out well.
So you can probably find pine, oak and cedar at big box. All stronger than mdf, all suitable. If you are painting, pine is my go to as you can cover it ...
3
I would say that MDF is the poor man's luxury product. It cannot handle any moisture but it is smooth, hard, durable and stable (doesn't expand or contract with seasonal change. It takes paint nicely and because it is hard and smooth it requires far less skill in painting to get a great look. It goes up fast and takes paint fast. And if you pre-paint it on ...
3
Mdf is a fair product for the price.
I always advise clients to choose real wood if the budget allows. As to what you have heard; Mdf in a dry interior environment will not warp like wood. It should not be installed in kitchens, bathrooms or outdoors. A good carpenter can use wood or mdf to provide pleasant finished details. If you can afford it, choose wood....
3
Not quite the idea you were looking for but one idea might be to use another bookcase so that you have two of them back to back. More storage that way.
Now onto your immediate question. I would suggest that you consider a hardboard Masonite type product. This comes in a 4x8 foot sheet that can be cut just to your size. It has a very smooth surface that will ...
3
From my experience solid core doors will block sound much better than hollow core. Solid core is also a heavier door which can be a plus although sometimes makes it a little more difficult to install.
Also, you want to make sure the door is pre-drilled for your hardware and pre-hung. The Jeld-Wen door you sited is a slab door and is not pre-hung. Slab doors ...
3
For the best match, cut a thin piece of the same MDF material to fit, and glue it into place with wood glue. MDF is very easy to work with so this would be relatively easy. If the fit is good enough, the glue will fill any of the cracks, or fill them in afterwards with a mixture of wood glue and MDF dust. Keep glue off the surface as it will affect the ...
3
There is not a convincing reason this has to be any sort of box structure. In fact for a bed support like that a single USA type of 2x8 (actual 1.5"by 7.5" 38mm by 190mm) on edge on each side of the bed would be way more than enough support. The overall weight can also be accommodated by using proper means to join the ends to the vertical posts.
If you ...
3
You'll get similar life from polyurethane and oil paint. It might be wise to use a satin or matte sheen to reduce the appearance of wear, which is the real issue. You can always recoat if actual wear-through or other damage occurs, but you probably don't want it looking distressed immediately.
Epoxy might give a little more hardness and thickness, but it's ...
3
You could get something called a trim screw. They also sell them in white if you wish to match the color and not cover the hole with putty.
It sounds like you don't feel comfortable with trim nails as you might damage the surface of the material with your hammer. Quite frankly, that will likely happen if you're a novice.
A brad nailer is great for speed but ...
3
You'd need to add substantial rigidity and strength via dowels or other means of connection. It's not a material that tolerates bending stress well. The effort to do it properly probably isn't worth the cost of a new 6' or 8' shelf board.
If you were to precisely drill for say six 1/4" x 4" hardwood dowels and liberally apply wood glue to ...
2
Nail it. You will forever regret a decision to glue the casing if it ever comes to a need to do repairs or modifications.
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Super glue might work, although my first thought was to finish the mdf with polyurethane first. This will seal the mdf and allow the adhesive to remain sticky for a long time. Rubbing superglue on the area before the velcro goes on might get the same result too if you don't want to finish the whole thing.
I think this is what's going on : the mdf is very ...
2
I've always had very good results when using polyurethane finish on MDF - particularly on edges, where it is absorbed deeply. I have used it to harden the edges and make them more robust. I'd suggest using it for your purpose also - once dry, I would think the edge would be sandable to a very smooth finish. If paint adhesion is an issue, then I suspect ...
2
You could try brushing the edges with glue. I use Weldbond glue for similar purposes. You can dilute it, maybe a thin coat first to penetrate and seal, followed by a thicker coat to finish it. It's available in large sizes if you'll use a lot. Worst case it's a good glue so even if it doesn't work for your application, it will still be good to have ...
2
Larger issue with foam products is that it's a huge fire hazard.
Likely hollow wooden (thin plywood and wooden batten) construction. Masonite® (tempered hardboard) would be another suitable sheet material.
Could be done in drywall if you were a masochist.
2
I have used heavy white paper and glued this to wood in the past, then it can be textured or painted once the glue dries. (Like a linen white wallpaper). This covers wood grain quite well and it can be skim coated , stomp design or spray textured if desired looks like a sheetrocked wall without the thickness and weight.
2
Lamination is a valid term to use in your application. Countertops are often laminated with Formica™ but I would not consider it to be a product to be rolled on in a manner similar to wallpaper.
I tossed a search to the world wide interweb for "thin laminate" and found a product I was unaware existed.
It's called cabinet veneer sheet and is produced and ...
2
Most nail guns aren't designed for brick, you'll be putting your self in risk of self harm either from jams or shrapnel when the brick gives way.
Getting a slightly smaller masonry drill bit and drill pilot holes that are fractionally smaller and nail in to those is a good option. Especially if you back it up with construction adhesive. The issue is that 1....
2
Pressed wood shelves should never span more than 32". Beyond that even their own weight will result in unsightly sag.
As for maximum load, you'll probably be unhappy with sag long before they collapse. For anything heaver than a row of paperback books, go every 16".
2
You absolutely can make any mitre cut with a table saw provided you have the correct jigs and guides. But, it's a LOT simpler and quicker to use a mitre saw to make mitre cuts. For "casual" work or just one-offs, then go ahead and use your table saw. If you're wanting to have quick and repeatable angle cuts, then get a mitre saw.
If you have to choose ...
2
Looking over the product guides etc. for the JeldWen, it does not say if it is a solid or hollow core door, although its price say solid.
Never the less, when looking for sound deadening in doors, always go for density, in this case solid doors. And if both doors are solid, go for the heaviest one. That is if the difference is in pounds. Don't sweat it if ...
2
I recently replaced some hollow bi-fold doors that enclosed my air handler for my AC and heating unit. I got the heaviest, highest density, doors I could find. It's amazing how much the sound has been reduced. Definitely go with solid.
2
If you really want the "best" way, it's going to be to remove the existing door casing and replace it with a smooth 1-by board. Like a 1x8 or 1x6 ripped to the proper width. That would remove the unnecessary door stop trim and give you a nice, smooth opening.
If that sounds like too much work (and it is quite a bit of work), then filling the old holes and ...
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