25

I find using the correct “c” spanner, in fact I would use two together to undo that as it means no hammering to possibly damage bearings etc. This method of using two nuts is used to set a limit or stop position - if only one nut was used it could easily move. A "nyloc" nut may also move but the two nuts locked together do not move. Some nuts can have a set-...


16

It's a spanner nut. There's a special wrench to loosen and tighten it but putting a slotted screwdriver in the groove and tapping it with a hammer usually works. it's a double nut so loosen one first, then the other.


14

Nylon is self-lubricating. Even when tight it's very slippery against itself. You'll need to increase friction. It may seem counter-intuitive, but you could apply some PTFE (Teflon) plumbing tape to the bolt threads. Even though PTFE is used as a lubricant, it'll thicken the thread diameter and create resistance to movement. Wrap 3-5 layers on the threads ...


12

April 13, 2016 Purpose: There is some disagreement as to whether boiling water can be poured down a residential kitchen sink without damaging the drain pipe. It might be assumed that if the pipe drains quickly, the amount of time necessary to cause damage would be greater than the actual time that the boiling water would be present in any particular ...


11

The most likely scenario is that the work on the system disturbed sediment/debris that migrated to your home water piping, plugging up your faucet aerators. Rather than the "quarter turn" you describe (which would accomplish nothing) it is probable that the aerators were removed, flushed, and reinstalled to restore flow. You should remain diligent, it is ...


9

If you open both the top and bottom about 3" the hot air goes out the top and cooler air comes in the bottom.


9

It's a bracket, with a U-shaped slot. Depending on the model, it is screwed either to the floor, or to both the floor and the wall behind the oven. You slide the oven's rear foot underneath the bracket, and it holds the oven in place in case you step on the door while it's open, preventing your pot of boiling water from sliding off the top onto you. ...


9

The life of electrolytic capacitors is primarily shortened by heat. Therefore ambient temperature, temperature of nearby motors, ventilation and air circulation (e.g. fan), presence of thick layers of dust, clogged grilles, excess paint, ... can be important factors. Electrolytic capacitors are manufactured to various specifications: Capacitance: e.g. 1 ...


9

When installed properly, the life should be indefinite. The hot/cold should have little effect, unless those temperatures are extreme.


9

Some other helpful hints (not from Heloise) 0) ALWAYS wear gloves and eye protection. (Note: if you're using one hand to hold down the material being drilled, a glove can reduce injury if the drill bit jams. On the other hand, you should never depend on body parts to hold things in place) 1) When drilling into soft material such as plastic or pine, ...


7

Generally one opens the bottom window, simply because it's easier. The features of the window tend to be designed with that in mind: the screen (if it is original to the window) will usually have a bit of extra fill along the top edge where it meets up with the upper window's bottom edge if there is a partial open lock (that prevents complete opening) it'...


7

Creosote from wood fires is the main reason, so no, cleaning from that standpoint isn't needed.


7

When the person you spoke to said to measure the "temperature difference between the return and supply sides". What they were talking about, is what's known as Delta T (of the evaporator). It sounds like you took the first measurement in the proper place (or close to it), but not the second measurement. The "supply side" refers to the ...


7

Yes, unless you are an inspector yourself. Inspections often catch things owners don't know about. The owner may have maintained it meticulously, but he can only fix the problems he knows about. My home inspector caught a few safety issues like pitch of the exhaust from the water heater and a sharp edge around a flexible gas line in the fireplace. You should ...


6

The manual will say something like Flushing the heat exchanger with a descaling solution if mineral build up is evident. Scale build up will shorten the life of the water heater, descale heat exchanger thoroughly and repeat annually depending on mineral content of ground water. (From Bosch 2400E NG user manual) or maybe something like Periodic ...


6

Just some things I see on jobs all the time: Do not use a power drill (you want to keep mix things). You will blow out the motor in a good power drill by using it as a mixer. I see my guys use their Makitas with a mixing rod. And have seen many ruin them. I simply give them a 30 year old craftsman electric drill I have that I would give away for $5. It ...


6

It is likely that the plastic nut (or bolt it screws to) is stripped. It may feel like it is tightening, but works loose because the threads are damaged. You should grab a set of replacement toilet seat bolts at the plumbing shop, they are (fairly) universal and come in a set of two. You do need to tighten rather firmly, but it is easy to damage plastic ...


5

According to what I can find, the XE1000 line was manufactured from about 1994 until about 2006. If it was made in 2000 or later, it may be a victim of the capacitor plague. Some background : From about 2000 until about 2008, various Taiwanese electronics parts manufacturers produced water-based aluminum electrolytic capacitors containing a flawed ...


5

This usually comes after years of use where there is grit in the water. The plastic sliding surfaces get abraded and start to stick. Usually the result is that you have to replace the sprinkler as the tube and piston are both pretty well shot. You might try unscrewing that black cap, the insides come out and with removing the spray head at the top, you can ...


5

B2 is a bypass valve. B1 and B3 are so you can remove the water softener to replace it and still have water pressure in the house. B2 (only) or B1, B3 (only) should be open at any one time. "All the way to the right" (wound in clockwise) is closed on a standard valve. "All the way to the left" (wound out anti-clockwise) is open on a standard valve. You may ...


5

Modern electronic ballast technology (T8, T5) doesn't use starters. I associate starters with old, inefficient magnetic ballast installations. I haven't had to replace a starter in years because they have not been used in any of the newer buildings I've worked in. My preference would be to convert any T12 installation with magnetic ballast and starter to T8 ...


5

First of all, do you in fact have PVC pipes? Lots of older houses have cast iron end-to-end, so nothing at all to worry about in that case. Even if you do have PVC, I don't think there's any serious concern, with the very slight possibility of an effect the drain trap (if any) right under the sink. While continuous immersion in 100° C water might soften ...


5

I know it's in the comments, but I feel it's important enough to place in an answer: Never EVER throw water on a fire that is , or might be, oil or gasoline - based! If your furnace does not have an automatic thermal cutoff valve on the fuel line inlet, you're out of code (at least in Massachusetts), and should definitely have a plumber install one. Keep a ...


4

as a HVAC technician. i found most failed capacitor issues was involved with blocked/dirty condensate coils, causing the compressor/fan to drew more amperage. so check first your condensate (outside unit) coil. if it is dirty unscrew the grill/fence around the unit and clean it with water. it is sometimes important to use detergents to wash it off.


4

As someone with a relatively newer house (1930s), and have experience in dealing with issues of an 1800s home (my grandmother's), there are a few things to consider which can dramatically affect your annual expenses: When (if ever) were the following replaced or upgraded: Attic insulation Wall insulation Heating system Air conditioning (if present) Roof ...


4

Pine has been the traditional siding in the Northeastern US for several hundred years (along with cedar shingles). Painting is the standard protection. While numerous products are lower maintenance, if you have the skill (not too much required) and time to keep it up (a good bit required), it should be fine.


4

Pine is a poor choose for siding in the northeast, and it is far more expensive than spec grade vinyl siding. Even though pine is used often for trim, when it is used to side an entire building expect the following problems. Wider boards, 1/2 X 6 and larger have a habit of checking and cupping when exposed to prolonged heat and moisture. Exterior pine needs ...


4

Pine will work fine if prep on the wood is done correctly. Prime all ends, the back, the front and two coats of paint on front and ends. This is usually good for 10 plus years. Pine siding has been around on homes and barns in my northeast area of the US for well over 100 years. Some homes over 100 years old have the original wood barn siding as well as ...


4

There are several independent variables to manage in a swimming pool or hot tub: pH balance halogen balance calcium hardness total dissolved solids Nearly everyone is aware of pH balance, but what most people don't seem to understand is that pH can swing wildly unless total alkalinity is increased sufficiently to provide an "inertial buffer" with total ...


4

Radial loads are bad. Axial loads are good. The bearings in your drill or drill press are designed to counteract the forces in line with the drill bit. A milling machine does both, and using a drill or drill press like a milling machine will destroy the bearings quickly.


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