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Unless your home is a 20 bedroom mansion I would simply tell them to keep that off your driveway period. You can't tell what load it will take because it depends how packed it still is, what condition it is in and how thick it was poured (and if this was uniformly done). Often these large trucks will crack driveways in the corners of their pours since ...
23
Disclaimer: I'm not a structural engineer, nor should you believe the word of a internet stranger. Contact a local structural engineer to take a look so you don't bring the house down.
A few details point to the wall visible in the photo being load bearing:
There is a beam in the open bit next to the wall. This implies something is worth supporting up ...
7
I'd bet it is bearing.
The picture shows a wall with a large opening and a door. I'll assume the plan view is the second floor plan.
In the picture you can see your knotty pine running parallel with the wall. This typically means that they are secured to the rafters and are perpendicular. The rafters are then resting one end on that wall. This is also ...
4
You need a layout of the ceiling joists to determined if it is load bearing. However, I would highly lean towards believing that it is a structural support wall. The exposed beam that runs in the span beside it is a good indicator.
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4
Like most have already said, I also believe it's a load bearing wall.. So for all the clues others have mentioned that it's a bearing wall, I also wanna add, and this may or may not actually be applicable here, but that it's common to hatch shear walls diagonally like the drawings show, so not only is that wall a part of your load bearing system, it may also ...
4
Yes, it’s acceptable to have bearing walls NOT align vertically, provided: 1) the walls are less distance apart than the depth of the joists, or 2) the side that has the upper bearing wall rests on a considerably shorter span, 3) the load is accounted for in the design of the joists.
1) If the upper wall is slightly off center, the upper load will transfer ...
3
You can use a concept from rock climbing here. There are methods of attaching to multiple anchors that are meant to distribute the load to three anchors, such as a cordalette:
You can search and find instructions for how to tie a cordalette, which might be all you need.
There are other methods that are meant to have some slip so that the load is ...
3
It's highly unlikely that there's a full beam in that wall. There's probably a doubled 2x10 header over the opening. Plan on installing a 3-1/2" by 14" LVL beam (or steel) to span that distance (after talking to an engineer, of course).
You can remove studs under a load-bearing beam if the beam is designed for the resulting span(s) and the remaining studs (...
3
Observations studying the drawing, 100% Load Bearing.
Section A will confirm further. Structural engineers will always span the shortest distance for timber joists. Taking out that wall, is physically impossible to do that without steel (span the floor over that is what I mean.) plus you would remove partial bearing support of the landing to the top of the ...
2
A typical install would us 2x4's with plywood across. Basically mimic wood stud framing. Doing the same with 2x2's should be fine for this application. I'm assuming a 100lb dead load. Use 23/32" sheathing plywood or MDF. Mount with nuts/bolts into the plywood and framing nails elsewhere. Weak point would be tearout of a connector not deflection of the 2x2 ...
2
Probably your wires are thin and/or the line serving your appliance is long. Anyway the standard voltage is 230 +/-10% so anything between 207 and 253 is regular. Remember that voltage drop on a wire increase with the current so having a lower resistance (thicker) cable will reduce the voltage drop.
Usually for 16A circuits is used 2,5mm^2 (or 4mm^2) cable ...
2
This indicates that you have a higher resistance in the service connection than there should be. I think you should get a service call from a competent electrician.
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I would sister several of the joists, then add solid blocking in each span. The blocking might not be critical, but the ceiling is now open so why not? Solid blocking does not need strapping across the bottom.
Look closely where the joists meet the load-bearing wall at each end. A 2x6 ledger might give extra assurance. Look at the rest of the floor structure ...
2
Picture 2 clearly shows the relation of front door to “wall I want to remove”. The wall you want to remove is a bearing wall ... supporting the roof as shown in last Picture #7, from the exterior.
That one small opening you’ve cut in the ceiling in Pictures #1 and #3 shows something spanning the opposite direction you’re indicating the joists run. You’d ...
2
I had a very similar situation at my previous home. As far as I'm concerned, safety isn't much of an issue. It's mostly you going in and out, and not very often. The real concern is bottoming clearance for your mower. It's akin to asking what a tolerable slope is on a trailer ramp.
Do a little experimentation to find out what slope your mower allows with ...
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5° is standard (ADA) which is 1:12. So at 8" height you would have an 8' ramp. If this is too long to line up the mower, shorten/steepen it as little as is necessary for you to use it. How steep is too steep is impossible to know without understanding all the circumstances.
Find a solid sloped surface somewhere nearby and test drive the mower up and down, ...
2
Since your front section at one time was a garage the there was a need to provide a fire break wall between the garage and the living portion of the house. Since the garage undoubtedly had an open ceiling all the way up into the rafter area the fire break wall had to extend way up to the roof line. To support the heavy drywall used as sheathing on the fire ...
2
When you're using old style steam switches, 3-way circuits look like this.
Yellow=travelers, red=switched-hot. Note in this switch position the light will be off.
Notice that there are 2 travelers, and the remote 3-way is lucky if the third wire is neutral. There's no question of bringing always-hot along with the travelers; there simply isn't a 4th ...
answered Mar 31 at 23:53
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2
Talk to your inspector (AHJ), but I suspect you have too much solar for your panel's bussing
Normally, all the current in a panel is sourced from a single point, and thus the panel busbars are protected by a single OCPD (main breaker or upstream feeder breaker), meaning that the panel's busbars cannot be overloaded without eventually tripping the OCPD. ...
1
Check with the manufacturer of the fixture. They should have some design parameters.
If they are modern day conventional residential roof trusses, I recommend contacting a mfg of same. See what they say.
I personally would take a 3' piece of standard #2-and-better 4x6 lumber, free of flaws, lay it perpendicular across the top side of two trusses to use as ...
1
Honestly I think you are over thinking this. As long as your anchor point spread out too far you shouldn't have a problem you don't really need to worry too much about transferring load because there is only one load on it. If you plan on swinging in your hammock that's a different story. On the other hand you don't have to worry about plummeting to your ...
1
The first thing that comes to mind is getting a welded steel ring to act as the "junction" point for your rope:
Random welded ring on Amazon
These are normally available at hardware stores in the rope and chain section. Other options would be a chain "quick link" or a load-rated carabiner (not the keychain type).
The upper ropes that are fastening to the ...
1
The dimensions of that table are 3' 9" wide and 7' 8" long. Turn the table top sideways and it will slide right into the van. Stack the chairs on top of each other seat-to-seat beside the table top from front to back. Slide the legs in between the legs of the chairs and it should all fit. You can probably place the chairs any way you like with the table ...
1
Until the modern era, where McMansions resulted in large and complex truss systems, truss lift wasn't nearly the problem it is today. Also a factor is the fast-growing lumber in use today, which tends to react to seasonal changes more dramatically.
It's true that interior walls should no longer be fastened to interior walls. New methods of drywall ...
1
Is this in a bathroom? Do you want this timer to control a light or to control an exhaust fan?
In either case, the load wire is that wire to the light or fan (the load) which will be switched to hot when you turn on the switch and which will be automatically switched off at the end of the timed period.
I assume here that the line cable enters in the switch ...
1
somewhere in the back there is a pin which limits the rotation of the shaft. move the pin and the number of options will be reduced. (some unknown amount of dissasembly will be required)
or you could add a pin to the back of the knob and cut an arc in the panel to accomodate it.
1
Loads are based on use...not all loads are the same.
Floor loads are considered permanent loads (100%), while snow loads are considered short term loads (periodically loaded). Snow in some areas are rated very short term, less than 7 days (125% stress). Some snow loads are rated short term, less than 1 month (115% stress).
What this means is that you’re ...
1
Are furring strips over insulation in concrete basement strong enough to hold some shelves and a tv?
The strips, absolutely not! At least not for the TV. You can drill through them and install concrete anchors if the concrete is in good shape. Just make sure the hold is good before hanging the TV. Since you currently don't have sheet rock up, I would cut a 3/4" piece of plywood large enough to accommodate everything you want, mount it directly to the ...
1
It’s probably stronger if same grade...(whether they are fastened together or not,) because: 1) same cross-sectional area, 2) same area from same distance from neutral axis, and 3) more surface area seen during grading.
1) Strength of beam is based on several factors, one of which is cross-sectional area. If they match, they are the same strength.
2) ...
1
In theory, yes. But do consider the type of wood. Look online to compare the strength of various species of wood before you go this route. The reason for caution here is that there are strong woods that you would typically find good quality 2x framing members cut from. On the other hand the typical wide boards (1x material) that you see are cut from much ...
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