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13

If the tile is nice tile, I'd strongly consider keeping that. People like tiled kitchens. Linoleum is a bit like laminate counter tops. Has a bit of a 60s/70s stigma to it. But also like laminate counter tops, they've gotten better and now come in a much wider range of looks. Linoleum has the added benefit of being a 'natural/green' material, so fits ...


11

Do they still make Linoleum? lol. Today there are many types of sheet flooring goods. the most common is vinyl sheet flooring. The newest style which is gaining popularity very quickly is fiberglass sheet flooring. This fiberglass flooring is very different than vinyl. If has a padded backing and is set with removable adhesive or with no adhesive at all. ...


11

I don't see any nail-heads or screw-heads in the carpet edge trim, so you probably have one like this: You might be able to save it, but they're cheap so I'd just replace it with a new one. Pry it up taking care not to damage the door trim. The carpet in the door opening should be loose enough that you can get access to the linoleum underneath (there may ...


10

There is a whole new generation of fiberglass, not vinyl, flooring that is self laying. The various manufacturers say wit will lay flat, not curl or bubble without adhesive. I have my doubts, but admit I have not used it without adhesive. The manufacturer does says that when adhesive is used, it can only be "Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive", never ...


10

You likely need flat, not level. And for that, all you really need is some sort of a long, straight edge. A yard stick works pretty well ... just place it down anywhere you think there might be a dip or bump, and if the yard stick is flat against the floor its whole length, you're fine. As for the implications of not having it flat, I'm not sure for ...


9

The floor doesn't have to be completely flat as long as any bumps or hollows are relatively shallow (like rolling hills rather than mountain peaks and valleys). If there are gaps or ridges in the floor then this will create areas where the linoleum will wear more than the rest of the floor. This is because there will be movement of the linoleum where it can ...


9

As Tester101 said, what's usually called "linoleum" nowadays is actually made of vinyl, and falls under the general heading of "sheet flooring". On the upside, lino's cheap, easy to install and easy to care for. You don't have to seal it like you do porous tile, grout and/or hardwood (but a shot of acrylic floor polish never hurt anything). It does have a ...


6

Unfortunately, you NEED to remove or cover the old vinyl. If you attempt to tile over an unsecure base, you are wasting yout time and money because the tile will not stay down. In your case, if you go over the splitting vinyl, the vinyl will continue to separate and up will come the tiles. If you go over the paper layer, the mortar/quickset will not stick ...


5

I've never heard or seen this myself. If it wasn't glued or rolled correctly in the first place, it's not going to glue itself back down, especially not at the seams. Call the installer back and make them do it right - rip it up and install new. Don't let them try and "fix" it.


4

The substrate you currently have is probably (90%+) not good enough for a ceramic install. I would think that you need to put at least 1/2" concrete board down and possibly plywood before that (depends on the room size and what is below this). Thinset doesn't really bond much to wood. If you have demo'ed 20-30 bathrooms where people tiled right to wood (...


4

Either way will work. My first impression would be to try to remove the old lino, especially since there is so little of it. If it turns out it too difficult, then simply remove all the loose lino, lay down your foam underlayment and go right over the whole mess. Good luck.


4

You are far more likely to die from worrying about asbestos than from asbestos. I just finished dealing with the same thing you are. Where possible, I installed engineered flooring and underlayment over the linoleum. They look killer! :) My mother, a retired cyto-technologist, kind of laughed at me about my own asbestos concerns. http://fumento.com/...


3

As others have said, you want flat (aka "true") more than level. If you have areas in your floor that are uneven, but you do not wish to add an entire new layer (which I generally think is a bad idea cause you end up with floors 2" thick with 9 layers of junk in them...) then you can find a floor leveling compound which you spread into the low points to ...


3

You could use an aluminum transition strip from the vinyl to the tile. Some types of transition strips are really intended to be installed under the higher tile layer so this may limit your ability to hide fasteners that secure the strip in place. Here are some examples: ... You can normally find an assortment of different styles of aluminum transition ...


3

You should be able to remove the carpet and padding without disturbing the tile. Then you can install a floating laminate wood floor without any concern. A hardwood floor that requires nailing would be a bigger concern.


2

First off that appears to be cheap PVC (Vinyl) sheet, not linoleum (linoleum is a natural product made from flax seed). And the term 'grout' may set someone on the wrong path helping you. Your faceless home store will have a variety of vinyl sheet goods glues and seam sealers for this purpose. The seam sealer is probably the best bet as it comes in the ...


1

Linoleum™ is a brand name as well as a material, which makes it somewhat ambiguous here. You're referring to "inlaid" vinyl, where the color is all the way through, as opposed to modern vinyl with a transparent wear layer. Incidentally, Linoleum™ is still in production by Armostrong, and not all of it is inlaid. It's more accurate to say that ...


1

In the US at least, asbestos was used during and after the 70's. I can't speak for Germany. To really know if it contains asbestos or not you'll need to test it. In the US at least you can get a kit for about $10 to collect a sample. Then it's another $40 or $50 for a lab to test your sample. I'd say it's linoleum based on the fiber backing. See if you can ...


1

It is not uncommon to apply a coat of embossing compound over a firmly bonded vinyl floor, then tile right over it. It certainly is not my favorite method, but as long as the existing vinyl is well adhered and not curling at sides etc. the tile should stay down well. Since you have already removed most of the vinyl, I would not worry too much about some ...


1

The general rule is that anything permanent or structural should be built into the sub floor and the floor built around it. Anything temporary or unattached, like a dishwasher, should go on top of the floor. For cabinets it depends how they are mounted. Base cabinets are usually mounted to the wall, but their bottom framing is usually meant to be flush ...


1

This is mostly a personal choice. With linoleum, the only difference would be in spending the extra money on additional materials to put it under the dishwasher versus just far enough to look good. I recommend doing the countertops before the linoleum only because gravity pulls dirt down - why have the countertop people mess up a brand new floor when you can ...


1

Cabinets (without the decorative toe kick panel yet), then linoleum, then countertops, then dishwasher, then toe kicks.


1

Yes this is no big deal. Given that you might want to glue them anyway to reduce squeaking. If you have big glue pieces hit it with a putty knife but don't need to spend a ton of time on it.


1

There is no way I would use a cork underlayment to make the floors equal. Cork has too many expanding properties. I don't even think you could get the cork to "sit" under a thin laminate. Also cork will feel softer than most other forms of underlayment. To the point where your floors will feel different. I would use plywood or what is under higher floor ...


1

The answer to this is "look at the instructions for the laminate", and see what they say. If you have old-school hard laminate (like you find in schools/government buildings/grocery stores), then it's a nice hard surface and it is fine. If it is resilient flooring (kitchen vinyl), then the answer is read the instructions. If you have big ridges, I'd ...


1

What you seek is a non polar organic solvent. WD-40 is a good stand in, but even better would be xylenes which are usually available at hardware stores (that's basically what goof off is). Really though, any non-polar solvent will work, mineral spirits, turpentine, brake cleaner, gasoline, diesel, tiki touch fuel, ether, THF, or melted lard. The more ...


1

Asbestos tiles can be dangerous but only if they crumble and the asbestos becomes airborne. I'd suggest trying to remove one tile and see how it goes. The process I've used: spray area with water from a mister (keeps dust down) get a tile remover (essentially a large, flat blade on a handle that you can use to pry up the tile) at a low angle, thrust the ...


1

This doesn't make sense. First if the floor was installed poorly long before you arrived then it wouldn't last that long - maybe 10 years. Asbestos was phased out of tiles in the early 80s. So is your kitchen tile 30+ years old? I cannot see this from a rental property. Now what is under your vinyl, who knows? Also you mentioned that the vinyl is ...


1

That's exactly what my parents (or rather their contractors) did to their kitchen when a chair leg started scratching up the lino badly enough to show the concrete underneath. The contractors simply cut away as much as they could of the torn part so it was as flat as possible, then added a later of Tyvek (cause the lino WAS right on the slab) and then the ...


1

If the floor looked flat before with the old linoleum them I wouldn't mess with it. I used floor leveler under linoleum once and it was a nightmare. The leveler is expensive: I spent more on it than the flooring. It didn't dry smooth and after it dried little concrete nuggets kept appearing from no where no matter how much I swept. I kept pulling chunks out ...


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