Yes those lamps are correct for that wattage ballast,
Since they worked for 2 years the ballast may have failed. Hopefully the lamps are universal and you can “direct wire” them.
Preheat ballast usually are not a good match with LED’s but there is not enough info there to know what type of ballast that is.
If the lamps have the direct wire or ballast bypass ...
If cleaning the globe is more complicated than installing the whole luminaire then I'd say it's defective and time to ask the manufacturer about that. And buy a better product. Even the cheap ones usually come with an obvious nut, screw, or spring clip that can be detached without any fuss.
The fixture and the globe should stay where they are.
Below, you've got a stem, a washer, and a nut. When you twist the bottom trim piece counter-clockwise, you should find the nut and washer inside of that. But hold on to the globe just in case the other parts are missing.
I had the same question, and it turns out, some LEDs are electronic but not magnetic compatible, and some claim to be magnetic but not electronic compatible. It looks like yours is magnetic, though.
I ended up bypassing the ballast in my fixtures. It's really not that much extra work, and it was worth it to me.
From the bulk of it, it's definitely magnetic. It has a balky transformer, and will do all "that 70's Fluorescent" behavior: flicker, hum, start hard in the cold, etc.
It uses the "rapid" or "programmed-start" wiring method, NOT "instant-start", so if you replace with an electronic ballast, select rapid or programmed.
There are several problems with this installation already that need to be changed to met NEC, I would say, remove the square box and start fresh. [Make sure the power is off at the breaker before you start] Back in the day when I was in the trade, I had a 3 1/2" dia deep cut hole saw, Electrical supply companies make an "Old Work" ceiling box ...
Most likely (because anything is possible), the two black wires going into one end of the switch (back stab and screw next to it) are "incoming hot" and "pass-through hot". All neutrals (white) are together (which is good) and all groups (bare copper) are together (which is required).
If your new smart switch has screws:
Elementary, My Dear
One cable comes from the upstream source (the service panel or another device box).
One cable is the light loop, in which the black (hot) is switched and the white (neutral) is the return. This is the only cable you can identify with any certainty without a voltage test since its path is broken by the switch.
One cable simply passes ...
What I suspect you have (ignoring the grounds) is:
One cable coming in with hot (black) and neutral (white)
One cable coming in white hot (black), neutral (white) and switched hot (red).
The hots all connect together. Do not touch them.
The neutrals all connect together. Add your light's white = neutral to this bundle.
The switched hot connects to your ...
Is the junction box at the ceiling? If so you may have a feeder and a cable going down and back to the switch. This would be called a switch leg and normally the hot feeder goes to the white going to the switch, the black wire coming back from the switch goes to the black on the light fixture. The white from the same cable as the hot feeder goes to the ...
These don't get "removed", they get cut off. Snip the copper solid wire at the end of those connectors, strip off the insulation and then use wire nuts or some other approved connector to connect the wires for your new light.
The only way is usually surface mount conduit.
We can not see the existing wiring.
Outlet wires go to the ceiling: it is possible that the feed from the light switch goes into the ceiling space and down in this case opening the ceiling and installing a couple of boxes could do the trick.
Why would I need more than 1 box? At each box we need a minimum of 6” ...
Looks like they just covered the connector and textured everything.
Using a volt meter put one side to the cover plate then one side of the receptacle should show line voltage the other much less or nothing,
there is a possibility of a voltage being measured on the neutral with no connection to a load (called phantom voltage) in that case the lower voltage ...