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1

Closest I've found is "THREADED CANDELABRA SOCKET CUP" I'm finding a couple of similar-looking items called "lamp holder with threaded sleeve", for example: Lamp holder E27 with threaded sleeve: E27 BLACK THREADED SKIRT PENDANT STYLE LAMP HOLDER WITH 1/8IPS THREADED CAP: E27 BLACK PHENOLIC FULLY THREADED SKIRT LAMP HOLDER WITH 1/8IPS ...


3

I would use a surface raceway setup for this This sort of job (extending power along a wall or ceiling) is precisely what surface raceway (such as Wiremold™) is made for. In Wiremold 500/700 series (Legrand's baseline metallic product), you'd be using a V5737 box with a blank cover (a standard 4" round junction box cover painted to match the raceway/...


5

Better idea: use a part listed for the job to bypass the errant current around the lights Fortunately, there's a way to bypass the errant "phantom" current (from capacitive coupling through the parallel traveler wires) back to neutral without doing anything that'd void your insurance. Simply nut a Lutron LUT-MLC in between switched-hot and neutral ...


2

Your first two switches in the sketch are set up to basically reverse the polarity between the hot and neutral. this is really not a thing in AC, more used to reverse DC motors. I doubt this is up to code (though ill leave it for the code experts to chime in), and IT IS NOT safe and i'm not sure what function it would provide you. Normally the neutral ...


2

I'm not sure how to interpret the numbers on my existing transformer in order to select a new transformer. You just want to match the numbers. It's not that important to understand what they mean. That said, note that the output is 12VAC (AC is "alternating current"). LED drivers are usually DC ("direct current"), but there's this corner ...


1

one of those white wires goes to the switch one of those black wires comes from the switch You need to figure out which is which and connect the white wire goes to to the switch to the black wires (this white wire should have black paint or tape on it) connect the black wire that comes from the switch to the lamp, and (using a short piece of wire) connect ...


3

Sockets of that type are readily available as lamp components, sold by competent hardware stores and lighting supply stores. Don't continue running it - that's a mistake given that you know it's defective. Swap the socket for a good one. Most likely the entire luminaire is an accessory that attaches to the fan hub, so it could come off and be serviced on a ...


2

GU24 to Edison Screw adapters are absolutely fine provided they are rated for the electrical load you will be putting through them, and designed for heat resistance. Most I've seen are rated up to 150 watts, which is far more than you need - most LED bulbs are 10 watts maximum. So get good quality adapters and you'll be fine. Keep in mind that these adapters ...


1

shut off power get some fine steel wool and jam it down there with a wood dowel and do your best to scrub out the sockets to get them as shiny as possible and make sure to remove the steel wood completely so there are no stray fibers, then install LED bulbs which do not draw that much power or generate as much heat and then cross your fingers.


1

The nearest I can find in size and wattage is a Bulbrite Industries, Inc. E26/E27 7.5 watt "25G12/CL-220" at this website: https://bulbman.com/globe/3391-25g12-cl-220.html (I don't know anything about bulbman.com) It looks like a 220v decorative bulb. I have not been able to find a direct replacement. Based upon the filament supports, it looks like ...


5

That can't be fixed, but it can be replaced. That ring snapped off the piece in the right side of your photo, it connects the threaded metal on the base of the bulb to one of the wire leads. There's no practical and reliable way to repair that thin formed sheet metal. Don't be fooled if you assemble it and it kind of works if you wiggle the bulb. The ...


1

You can easily bypass the ballast, connect your hot to red neutral to white and use color tape to designate for future. The sockets can be adapted with plug in to medium adapter. Faster and easier then replacing the can. I do this literally all the time


0

You need to replace the fixture with a remodle can light. Then your led trim can go into that


2

No, you can't do that. The blue and red wires you see in the existing fixture come from the ballast for the CFL bulb. It's not the regular 120V. You'll need to remove the old fixture to get to the 120 Volts you need and install a new fixture.


1

Someone tried to tap light B off at the switch-end of an old-school switch loop The behavior you're describing is symptomatic of a relatively common wiring error where someone looks in a switch box, sees that there is a black and a white wire in it, doesn't pay attention to the fact that both wires go to the switch, and connects a second light across the ...


5

Likely is a bad switch, or a bad connection. Unlikely is "high resistance wire" And if you are planning to "put your engineering degree to use" please learn the difference in line connected items between "neutral" (Grounded) and "ground" (Grounding - safety ground - whole different thing.) Your safest bet if low on ...


2

First of all, I think someone just did the coloring nonstandard; they simply used red to the fixture for whatever reason. Also, your diagram doesn't show a red between the 4-way and 3-way switches. I'll assume that's an oversight and it's actually there, because if not, you have bigger problems... That said, there are a couple of things possibly at play. ...


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