10

Yes you can; however, I would recommend at least stapling craft paper/tar paper across the stud bay behind the lath to minimize loss of plaster through the mesh. Make sure the lath is stretched tight.


9

Yes, you can apply plaster to metal lath without backing. That's exactly what you do for interior plaster and metal lath. Type in "how to install interior metal lath and plaster" into google video search, you'll find what you're looking for. What you described looking at, with backing and a weather resistant barrier, was stucco. Lath and Plaster ...


6

You could taper the sections together with joint compound (though you wouldn't sand it into shape--that would be ludicrously laborious). However, you'd probably still see the transition at the floor and ceiling. Better, use furring strips on the new section of wall to result in a flush finished surface. 1/4" luan plywood or OSB is cheap and easy to work ...


6

The closeup looks like cement based backer board used to hold tile in wet/damp locations. If so, that is not original. It would be very hard to restore to lathe/plaster throughout, especially if sections are missing. The transition points for repairs tend to crack and show lines. Also, wire mesh is used more than wood lath today. Finding a skilled plasterer ...


6

Your best option is a jab saw and a steady hand. If your question is how to do it while spending no money the answer is substituting the saw blade in a multi-tool or Swiss Army Knife. Failing that, scoring the plaster with a utility or X-acto and carefully breaking it out.


5

Since this got ZERO love, and I have finished the job, figured I would post what I did. Simply bought some wire mesh from the local home goods store, and screwed it directly into the wood lathe after breaking out the hole a bit more. That gave me a good base for my 20 minute hot mud to mushroom through. As for the rounded corner -- it was nothing ...


5

tear it all down, replace with regular sheetrock / drwywall.


4

What I have done on my 1909 house (I am in the U.S.) in the same exact situation is clear a wider area of the lath and plaster and replace it with drywall. To do that, you will need to add some padding over the studs because the lath&plaster is thicker than 1/2" -- what I did was pad it with 3/8" plywood, then drywall over plywood to achieve ...


4

16 inches on center. Note that lathe and plaster has a number of advantages over more modern drywall, but studfinding is not among those. A standard stud finder you might buy or rent is likely to give confusing results. However a super powerful magnet, or a magnet based stud finder, will work just dandy. A row of small nails runs up and down each stud ...


4

I have had a lot of success in the past by using a mixture of PVA Glue and water and then painting the solution over the crumbling area. The glue gets absorbed into the crumbling surface and stabilises it. Then you can refinish with a thin coat of filler or plaster. It saves a lot of work.


4

Before you attempt to repair it, make sure that the cause of the ice dam has been fixed. You may need to insulate the ceiling, and/or add a styrofoam vent baffle to the inside of the roof to prevent that area from getting too warm. Ice and water shield installed on the roof probably would have also prevented this from happening. The repair will depend on ...


4

Shim out the framing to get the drywall flush. I've often used 5/8" drywall with no shims, depending on the plaster thickness and patch configuration, but otherwise shim it. 1/8" hardboard is cheap and easy to work with. Or rip some scrap lumber to size. Staple it in place and be happy. Update: After seeing your photo, I suggest re-cutting your edges ...


4

There are two factors: Your level of care, and dumb luck. If the plaster hasn't proven to be particularly crumbly in your home, I'd go ahead and use that type of anchor, or this one: Some tips: Drill carefully. Don't push too hard and use a high spin rate. You might switch to a fresh bit when you encounter wood. You don't want to blow the lath out the ...


4

The wood that's visible around the edge of that opening is plywood. I would suggest opening up several other boxes throughout the apartment (or at least along that wall) to see if they're all like that. If this wall seems to have a consistent plywood backing, you're in luck because all it takes is a few of the appropriate sized lag bolts (specified in the ...


3

Screws in wallboard do not support anything. Unless your screws hit a stud or an anchor of some sort, the bracket is decorative, not functional. If there is not a stud in the immediate vicinity, you need to use a serious anchor. I would recommend using a strap toggle type anchor behind the bottom screw and one of the top screws. The bolt can be replaced ...


3

To answer the original question, the studs at either end of the closet will not need to define the dimensions. The stud at either can be screwed in place. Do not use nails. The vibration from setting the nail will break off the keys of plaster that hold the plaster up on the wall. Use enough screws to increase the chances of finding the wood lath to secure ...


3

I am a drywall and plaster contractor in Va. The guy above told you correctly. The problem with wood lath is: once you start to cut it or re-screw it back up where cracks are, the lath pulls away from the studs, causing the cracks to get worse. If you are determined to use plaster, you must use a bonding agent, plaster weld, for the new plaster to adhere to ...


3

Assuming you plan to live in the house while this is going on, you should seriously look at the plastic "curtain" products which can be used to isolate the construction zone. They can tremendously reduce how much dust gets into the rest of the house. Speaking of dust, a serious dust mask (one that achieves a good seal against the face rather than the cheap "...


3

The Structolite is drying out too fast, because the bare brick is wicking out all of the moisture. You need to use a bonding agent and possibly add some sand to your base coat, as well as scarify it, for any successive coats. If this project is going to have any substantial thickness, it probably wouldn't hurt to also add some kind of structural support, ...


3

I don't understand option 2, but option 1 is exactly what I'd do. A few suggestions: Be sure that the thickness of your drywall brings it to flush or slightly below. Do not install patches that protrude above the wall surface. This will be difficult to tape without leaving a bulge. If you end up with a depression after installing the patches, pre-fill ...


3

I live in an old house too. I'll assume yours, like mine, has some history to it and has been renovated and altered over the decades. You can't do DIY in an old house the way you can in a new one. You can't follow simple repeatable rules. You have to learn how different walls are built and how different fittings behave. Your handyman's secret is ...


2

A recip saw is a great tool. I'd also pick up a shop vac if you don't have one. Demoing plaster walls is a hard and messy job. I'd use the side of the sledge against the wall; that breaks the front of the plaster off of the lath, and you can then remove it and follow by removing the lath.


2

Finding studs behind lath-and-plaster walls can be difficult because the plaster is so dense. See Am I having trouble finding studs because my walls are lath and plaster? for some suggestions. However, since you know exactly where the strip of wood has to go, you should be able to drill some small pilot holes behind its eventual location, then fish some ...


2

Should I assume that someone skilled at stucco work is also skilled at plaster work? No you should not!


2

A $20, 20oz, full metal tang, rip hammer. Preferably from a company ending in wing. Make a hole in a wall, flip it over and insert it, pull. No cutting wires or pipes in the walls with a recirc saw. A legitimate respirator helps not only with real plaster dust, but also when the lath comes and tries to hit you in the face. Stick a 2x4 or a length of pipe ...


2

I'm in the process of a large plaster-and-lath removal; my methods have evolved over the course of the project, maybe these tips will help others who find this question. I found that it's easiest to peel the lath one or two pieces at a time. Pull it with a pry bar or crowbar exactly where it's nailed to the joist (in my case this meant four places), and ...


2

The problem that is encountered is when you are installing the partition top plate at the ceiling. If the location of the wall doesn't line up plumb with a joist you will need to install bridging across the ceiling joists first at 16 inch intervals. The bridging will allow you to secure the top plate between two joists so the closet wall can be located ...


2

Use plaster, 2-part body filler will be just as likely to fall off upon impact and is more difficult to use (IMO). Rough up the areas around the repair to improve adhesion. Moisten the existing damaged area before carefully applying plaster repair. Mix it to a firm putty consistency then use a moistened wide putty knife to "feather" the plaster back onto ...


2

Would be much easier to do in plaster, even if textured. The images below, are of an old window opening, overlapped by a new double door install. As forgiving as that dark paint was (2007), if they painted that room white today (2016), it would still look like that door had always been there - 140 year old house. The last picture before the close-up, is all ...


2

Go with your plan & method of filling or even over-filling the areas in. You want to be as level to the old stuff as possible so the Mesh Tape can be equally filled in & over & humps feathered out onto both the old & new. The thicker the drywall the better. Plaster is extremely good at sound insulation, so you want to match that mass with as ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible