It depends on a couple of things. How much time you want to invest, how your current baseboards are installed, size of current baseboards, and what you want everything to look like.
As long as it isn't a HUGE deal to take baseboards out I would almost always go with removing them.
Your finish will look better. No quarter round looks way more professional....
There are two ways to install flooring in areas of different heights. The cheapest and easiest method is to install transition pieces or thresholds between the areas of different heights. These transitions are available in different matching shapes and heights for most laminates. Common use is to join carpeted, tiled or other floors, to new flooring height.
I ended up ripping the laminate boards lengthwise using my jigsaw and fitting them in like Jim suggested. I used some cardboard to cut out the shape that the long pieces should be and then drew across the edge of the cardboard piece on the laminate boards. It worked out quite well I think and I hope there won’t be any structural support issues.
The fact that the laminate was soaked with water caused it to swell. Drying it won't allow it to contract completely. Add to that the flooring was laid on concrete. Was there a vapor barrier between the concrete and the laminate? If not then the flooring had been drawing moisture from the concrete for a long time before the water leak. You are lucky you were ...
Personally, I would invest in a new laminate routing bit and go over that edge. You could also a chisel and lightly score the edges. I'd put some masking tape on the laminate to protect it while your finishing the edges. A fine grit sandpaper would also work.
You should remove the baseboard, install the flooring, and then reinstall the baseboard. At least that's how I do it.
Most people leave the baseboard in place, and cover the expansion gap with quarter-round or shoe molding. If you're going to do it this way, you'll have to leave the manufacturer recommended expansion gap between the flooring and the ...
Guessing that the luan subflooring is only 1/4" thick I would strongly suggest that you remove it. Since the existing carpet squares are glued down to it I suspect it would be way more work trying to remove all the glue and prep its surface to a suitable condition for the laminate flooring.
If you tried to leave the luan subflooring any type of transition ...
There are lots of grades of laminate flooring. When I say lots maybe hundreds.
These are the main things that figure in on how moisture will affect your laminate (almost all apply to engineered wood):
Locking system. I have put together some laminate that have a very "loose" locking system. To the point where there are tiny gaps. Not an install issue,...
Without more specific brand information my definitive answer is likely not. The reason being that most prefinished lock together flooring is designed to float. By float it should be able to expand and contract independent of the base layer or sub floor. Since you have at least two different types it is likely they will expand and contract at different rates. ...
I did exactly this to fit a slightly bigger sink into an existing countertop made from laminated chipboard. The difference in size was very little (perhaps 5mm)
I used a cheap jigsaw - it was a struggle and the line was not straight but I managed to keep the top edge of the cut within my marked rectangle. Part of the problem was finding a long enough blade ...
One way to test a wall for straightness is to stretch a string from corner to corner. A good practice when doing this is to space the string out in the corners by the thickness of a board. Then the gap between the string and wall all along can be checked to see how even the wall is. The gap can even be checked with another piece of board that has the same ...
We did this and cheated; at some doorways we stopped and covered the join with a rather smart strip of brass.
This makes it a lot easier, especially if:
your house is not quite square
the floors are not quite flat
you have big temperature variations
you want to have different rooms not running the same way
you want the doors to close snugly
That is a strap tie and is meant to distribute a load over a distance (usually across boards, joists, studs, etc.) I see it a lot in attics in Florida (ie hurricane straps) but not on floors. Placing one on a seam, such as the long strap, really doesn't distribute a load but it could be one of those "contractor" quick fixes (ie, I only have 2 straps when I ...
There appears to be insufficient gap and the range appears to be too low. The easiest thing would be to raise the range by 3/4 inch to 1 inch. This might reduce heating of those areas.
Might benefit from a stainless steel gap cover like this https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Counter-SILICONE-splatter/dp/B089B6G3XZ
Current gap covers appears to be ...
This seems like a fine job for a razor scraper.
If not then a super sharp wood chisel would also work.
If using either tool you should be careful to not let the tool dig into the laminate. Make sure it's only slicing out the unwanted material.
Other thought: can you re-route it with a higher quality bit which won't leave behind such a mess?
If you remove the baseboard, you risk damaging the walls. Installing the laminate with quarter round will be much easier and won't damage the existing walls.
That's the only "better" we can answer. Aesthetically, "better" is wholly subjective. But I I think it'll look just as good either way, so go with easier and less damaging.
Your best bet then would to get an artist brush and acrylic paint from an art supply or craft store. That can be blended to get the color you need to touch it in, though replacing it would be my choice to do. All told it would take less time, and about the same cost, if you have the cutting tools.
From the Pergo Installation Instructions (Section 10d, page 6):
If the Pergo Product being installed has an attached
foam underlayment then use only a vapor barrier
when installing over a concrete subﬂoor.
When installing a Pergo Product with an attached
underlayment foam over a wood subﬂoor no other
additional acoustic underlayment should be ...
I am sorry I don't have time to research this right now but I will give you a quick answer and maybe edit later. First - call Pergo and ask.
Second, I have installed 4 different types of Pergo+underlayment and all of them say to take out old underlayment. I think there is first an issue with the floor becoming too spongy and second if there is spongy/...
Option B is a fine way to start, if possible check 2 things. If possible shift your row if you can to get a potential butt joint out of the doorway. It is always best to eliminate joints in the doorways since it is always a high traffic area.The elimination of the added piece in option 1 is the reason I did go for option 1.
Secondly, adjust how much you cut ...
I have fabricated custom counter tops for customers, and have also installed the preformed counter tops with the attached back-splash. The main issue of concern, when cutting laminated counter tops, is the tendency for the laminate to chip or break in an undesirable way, which may ruin the results of your efforts. However, there are simple tricks that can be ...
Laminate flooring is intended to survive reasonable moisture that might be spilled. Moisture should be mopped up as soon as possible on any floor.
If there were significant flooding, the laminate (and almost any real wood floor) would be at risk of damage beyond repair. Almost no floor is truly waterproof.
Two major considerations for basement flooring are moisture and comfort. Moisture is the primary consideration -- concrete floors are cool and porous and will permit moisture to infiltrate from underneath and condense from above. Obviously, you'll want to keep standing moisture away from wooden floors to prevent damage. There are various methods of doing ...
A suction cup (~$12) and a rubber mallet:
... its possible to stick the suction cup to the floor board and tap it with a rubber mallet. Glue can be applied in the gaps. The gaps should be cleared of debris first.
So, someone finally made a product for this. Mine is on the way so I'll let you know how it works. It's an aluminum bar with a micro-suction material on it. Simple but genius.
Hire a competent finish carpenter to remove the trim. Then proceed as "everything you read says" - remove laminate and apply backerboard. 1946 trim is probably better-quality wood than anything you can buy today, and it won't have been glued on with polyurethane either...