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12

While this will not directly answer your question, I'd like to offer an alternative solution. Modify Existing Molding If it were me. I'd get some transition molding, with a profile like this. I'd then set up my table saw to rip the piece, to remove the angle profile on the back edge. Which would give me a profile like this. Once I had my molding ripped ...


11

It is fine to temporarily store the flooring in a cool dry place, However, You will need to bring it into the climate in which it will be installed for a few days so that it will acclimate to the conditions before installation.


11

First of all, I disagree with your orientation. But, it is your choice, and I'll respect that. You may want to read this: http://diy.blogoverflow.com/2012/09/installing-laminateengineered-wood-floating-floors/ Pay close attention to the pre-measuring, so that you avoid having a 1 inch board running along either wall. The idea is that you never want to ...


10

Baseboards should be installed after laminate. Most (all?) Laminate is a floating flooring system which means it doesn't actually attach to the subfloor (friction holds it in place once all the pieces are set together. As a result, it will expand/contract a bit with temperature/humidity changes in the house. Because of this, you have to leave a small (...


9

While I disagree with your orientation, this isn't really that hard as long as you're using a floating floor. Start by running a line of boards across all three rooms, and orient them so they are as perpendicular as possible to all the walls. (Alternatively snap a chalk line to represent the left edge of that single line of boards. Now in each room, ...


7

That looks like the chip is in the transition piece and not the floor boards. For the best results, just replace the entire piece. It doesn't look like it matches exactly anyways, so just try to find something very close. If you know where the floors came from you might get really lucky and end up with the identical part. It is either glued in place, ...


6

I have just recently tackled the same problem with my own hallway. The solution I did was as follows. I cut a piece so that it would fit the door opening and a little more, so that it will go under the door frame. I have cut this piece so that on one side there is still the laminate "click" side, while the other is naturally cut off (this is piece 2 in the ...


6

If you don't have any heavy duty canvas type drop cloths, then use a couple of layers of red rosin paper. Tape the seams and around the perimeter to hold it in place. Keep an eye on it and tape or put an extra piece on any areas that get ripped. Red Rosin is much better than plastic as it is not slippery to walk on and is fairly tough for foot traffic.


6

I ended up ripping the laminate boards lengthwise using my jigsaw and fitting them in like Jim suggested. I used some cardboard to cut out the shape that the long pieces should be and then drew across the edge of the cardboard piece on the laminate boards. It worked out quite well I think and I hope there won’t be any structural support issues. The ...


6

You're going to need two tools to do this and two specialty blades. A diamond cut-off disc to make the majority of the cut attached to a grinder. And you'll need a diamond (if available) or carbide-tipped oscillator bit and the corresponding oscillating tool ( sometimes called a multi-tool). For the majority of the cut you will use that diamond cut off disc ...


5

I think you should be more concerned with the expansion gap than other types of expansion. In my opinion you should use some kind of separation between the living room and the bedrooms, because bigger rooms require bigger expansion gaps. And that difference in expansion could give some bowing.


5

You should consider doing something mosaic-y there because the size difference will always prevent you from putting in a milled transition piece. If you try to install something that looks perfect, it will always look imperfect. But if you go with something that is intentionally imperfect, it will look intentional.


5

There are many different types of moldings you can install that are around 1/2" thick that you can glue. Pine would glue down fine on metal (might require doing it in sections so you can keep pressure on it for a day). I would not go with quarter round here because your gluing surface is so small and it will eventually move, get stepped on, furniture ...


5

There are a few options... You can remove the non-marring plastic feet provided by Ikea, and replace them with some rubber nail or screw on feet, or you can get rubber "caster cups" that the existing feet can set on. Rubber will provide protection between the floor and the table, but will stop if from sliding. You should be able to find both and any home ...


5

Your run-of-the-mill reducer should do the job. This type usually comes with a steel channel that you'd anchor to the concrete, then you simply tap the piece in place.


4

The most common approach to dealing with flooded surfaces is to blow air across them. The constantly changing air absorbs moisture. Commercial companies use very high volume fans, but any fan should help. If you can exhaust the air from the room, the moisture level in the air should drop and more water will be absorbed from the floor. Use of a dehumidifier ...


4

Either way will work. My first impression would be to try to remove the old lino, especially since there is so little of it. If it turns out it too difficult, then simply remove all the loose lino, lay down your foam underlayment and go right over the whole mess. Good luck.


4

A lot has been written about this subject. I am of the camp, like Tester 101, that laminate flooring is a poor choice for kitchens and bathrooms. Keep in mind that laminate flooring is a pressed paper/composite backing with a "picture" of the finish on top. Granted, laminate has come a long way and the surface durability of the better brands is quite good ...


4

Concrete wicks water, so even if the membrane under your screed layer is undamaged, if any moisture gets into that layer it's going to be redistributed as evenly as possible throughout that layer. What you don't want to do, with a DPM under the screed, is create a moisture trap - which a second DPM would do. Instead of a membrane, use a foam underlayment ...


4

Since each room in your house will have different temp and humidity levels, the T moulding allows each room to contract, expand, and flex independently of the others. This helps prevent warping and cracking.


4

Most molding (skirting board) is 3/8" thick. You need a 1/4 inch gap around the floor to allow for expansion due to moisture. So if you're going up right against the drywall, you'll have a problem with getting molding thick enough to cover it (minor variations in the gap WILL show). One alternative is to buy the stuff they sell as window/door casing which ...


4

Is this over a crawlspace? Fix your dampness and ventilation problems first before you invest a lot of time/money into the cosmetics. You will probably find more issues. Why do you want to do this twice (now, and again in a year)? My suggestion is to do it right, once. Concrete shrinks as it cures, so cracks are probably only a cosmetic issue.


4

You don't have to, but there's not a great alternative to prevent gaps from showing. An "undercut saw" can be rented cheaply at your local tool rental shop. It's basically a circular saw with the table configured for horizontal cuts. Try to run the blade teeth toward the wood to prevent tearout. You can also use a fine-toothed handsaw with a scrap of your ...


3

I know I've seen stain grade wood grilles that could be flushed to the floor. I doubt they were 8mm, but you may be able to rout the subfloor to make up the difference or and/or bevel the grille edges. You would stain and finish to match, but you won't be able to perfectly match the stain. It's unlikely it's even the same wood specie. This wouldn't bother me,...


3

Buy yourself a steel ruler long enough for the job, and a few quick release clamps. Just clamp the ruler and tile to a workbench and score along the ruler with a utility knife. It's a bit slower, but for a single room, the savings is significant. As well, you should only be cutting the edges that go against the wall. Remove the quarter round and ...


3

I had a similar problem between my new hardwood and tile floor, and asked here in this question. I ended up making a custom piece from the hardwood. You could do something similar. The piece would run perpendicular to your existing floor like mine. There are also lots of other great answers in my question that may help you.


3

I like taking small crowns out of concrete floors with diamond cup wheel attached to an angle grinder... Need a shop vac and a masked helper. You may be able to rent both.


3

I know this is an old question, but here's what I did: (1) drill holes in the concrete. Yes, this is a PITA, but with the right bit it is not too bad. The holes do not need to be huge, nor do they need to be deep if you use the right screws. (2) Use the right screws. The ones I used are from a standard Big Box store, and are specifically designed for ...


3

No you never need to use quarterround. I try to do all installs without using it. 2 best options: Slice out the bottom .25-.5 inch of drywall so that your flooring has the proper expansion gap. Buy trim that is thicker and will cover expansion gap. Also you should never press down trim on flooring - it can be gently set on it. If you do press down on ...


3

What happened is that you broke off the MDF tab that was holding that plank in place. That's why it slides freely now; nothing's mechanically holding it in place anymore. Since the core is MDF, any kind of wood glue should be totally fine to fuse them together, and once glued, those two planks will probably be more strongly held to one another than the other ...


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