You are not making any structural changes but you are making electrical and gas plumbing changes that will require permits and inspections.
First sketch out what you actually have.
Second sketch out what you want
Do a “planned modifications” breakdown for the circuits & plumbing (this sets the fees in my state)
Submit to building codes office for review ...
I have had these hinges on my Hagerstown Kitchen cabinets with no issues for 40 years. Your friction hold appears to be slipping. I suggest drilling through the friction plate and adding 4 to 8 small wood screws into each door, so that the mount no longer depends on friction alone.
It looks like the part of the cabinet that is gripped by the hinge has a reverse vee shape so the hinge should not be relying on friction to stay in. You should look more closely at wear on the wood or the hinge that is preventing the hinge from taking advantage of this profile. Your pictures are great but I can't quite see what might be wrong. Open a ...
I would demo the entire back splash area removing all the Sheetrock.
Trying to save 10$ (about a sheet) makes no sense to me because the Sheetrock gets damaged or has residue on it. I would rip& strip the tile and Sheetrock out and then if replacing with Sheetrock use green board or if tile use backer board to replace the Sheetrock.
Replacing a large ...
I would be more worried about the igniter or if electronic how often it fails.
I have been asked several times if I could repair them and the high voltage circuits are usually potted and not repairable.
With potted electronics you are stuck purchasing expensive replacement parts.
And that may be the reason to sell (or a remodel).
I am not aware of any real ...
Pretty common practice for most trades not to clean after themselves. Even the trades that do clean after themselves I have a hard time imagining cleaning the underside of the slab.
My experience is the same as yours. If you touch the underside of the slab you are likely to come away with dust - unless you personally cleaned it.
I wouldn't worry about it.
I'm on board with upgrading to a pre primed pine or something similar. it will hold up better. If you do, i would make a 45 degree cut, and join the 2 pieces with CA glue and activator. careful, the glue dries instantly and permanently so you only get one shot to attach them.
Don't join Them
Well the best option is to only have one kickboard. Looking at yours I would just throw them away. For kickboards I use 1x and I use either pine or Azek. That is the area of the kitchen that has the most chance for water damage so don't use plywood or something like that. MDF would be your worst choice (isn't it the worst choice for ...
I typically build my own kicks for lower cabinets and the front is solid so fastening the 1/4" or thinner material to the solid blocking isn't an issue.
I have seen systems with legs for the lowers and then you clip the finished kick to that. I agree that 1/4" thick material is too thin, one kick to the kick and it will crack. In your case with a ...
I would simply cut the toe kick so that the butt joins occur where two cabinets join.
Then, I would find an appropriate piece of moulding to cover the joins.
The simplest solution is cheap plastic t-moulding (check in flooring) like this:
However, you can check around the flooring department for t-shaped transition mouldings that suit your needs (may be ...
Or should I just disassemble everything and bring them to Home depot
or Lowe's for help?
Yes, take the cartridge to Lowes and look for a match.
If you can not find a match then go to a plumbing supply house.
When operating correctly, an electrical circuit supplies power to the ignitor system when a burner valve is turned on. This circuit usually consists of parallel connections to individual switches, with one switch mounted on each burner valve. If the oven is also heated by gas, there'll be a switch on the oven valve as well.
In your appliance, there's a flaw ...
I'll answer with a practical suggestion, rather than precisely answering the "Can we" question with "you can!".
A complex appliance designed for indoors, full of electronic controls and sensors, and lots of hidden inaccessible crevices where moisture and insects can collect, is unlikely to last long outside, or to work at all in some ...
What about using the back of your fridge to preheat your make-up air? I had a mechanical consultant do that in an apartment building where the intake air was delivered to the gap behind the fridge..
Might be a nice (old-school) compromise..
The says, “Every dwelling unit shall be provided with a water closet, lavatory and a bathtub or shower.”(See ICC R306.1)
However, it doesn’t say every bathroom shall be provided with a lavatory.
If you do provide a toilet, lav, tub, etc. they shall meet the clearances shown in Figure R307.2.
All junction boxes need to be accessible.
Don't mess with that rule, it's a very important one.
If the junction boxes meet or exceed the size required for "box fill" (there are calculators on the web, if the one you stumble on at first is not to your liking, choose another, many work fine/easily, or you can read the tables and do the calcs ...
The idea is fine. But you can't chicken out. As long as you get enough spiders and let them cover a good deal of your kitchen in webs, the flies will be gone in no time. You really have to go all in on this and not sure how sanitary that is for a kitchen. But you have to continue having a small fly problem or the spiders could turn on each other.
I'm not an entomologist, but...this isn't going to work. My non-expert intuition here is that spiders don't want to live in a box, and they especially don't want to live with other spiders in a box. Also, if you're going to the trouble of luring flies into a box, maybe just put some fly paper in there? Sometimes simpler is better.
P.S. The expression is &...
Your options: come up from below or down from above
You have two choices as to supplying the receptacles for this peninsula: either you can come up from below into a wiring chase between the two sets of cabinets as SteveSh describes, or come down from above using pendant techniques. Both work by Code, but have different caveats and costs. Note, by the way, ...
It appears that the product description you seek is called a compression brake caster. The specifications I've found using those terms in a search indicate the mechanism within causes the brake to activate when weight is applied. I recall a library step stool from my early days in which the entire caster was enclosed in a tubular leg. The mount for the ...
I would first try either Homedepot.com or Lowes.com. on line before going to the store. They have casters that may work for you. If you go to the store and they do not have what you are looking for, you could order them on-line and pick them up at the store with no delivery charge.
You can also check on-line at "accesscasters.com or casterconcepts.com.
How wide is this?
It looks like you have enough room to adjust it 1.5-3mm in either direction.
Removing the handle
Clean the hole by drilling through it with a bit as wide as the screw threads. If the screw threads did not damage the interior of the original hole then skip this step unless you need to enlarge it for step #3.
Get a bunch of ...
I would plug both holes without enlarging them, glue a piece of dowel that fits and let dry.
Then check on the face that the handle will cover the dowel when the handle is mounted correctly, otherwise you will need to make it the same color.
Then drill new holes in the correct positions. The back side may be easily covered by using a washer or a screw with a ...