66

Someone will close the door and... It will fill the fridge's internal spaces with mold Air holds moisture. Warm air is capable of holding more moisture than cold air. Everytime you open the fridge door, you let in room air. This contains more moisture than air can possibly hold at refrigerator temperatures, which means condensation occurs inside the ...


45

You're probably not saving any meaningful amount of electricity by turning it off for just 2-3 days. Sure, it won't use any for those days, but the temperature inside will raise to room temperature. After you turn it on again, it will have to work for many hours to cool down again. This could cause abnormal wear on the compressor, because it's designed to be ...


20

There are pendants and there are pendants. An item like this Power Pendant Outlet Drop is designed for the purpose you describe. An ordinary residential grade hanging light is NOT. There are a few possible issues: An ordinary hanging light fixture is designed to carry the weight of the fixture. It is not designed to handle frequent manipulation and the ...


17

First, the vent exit should have a weather flap on it that should mitigate sound somewhat. Be sure that it's present and functioning properly. The sound is echoing through the duct, so insulation outside the duct won't do much. You'd need insulation inside the duct to do that, which isn't a good idea here. Instead, protect the vent cap from direct impact ...


10

A fridge keeps a steady temperature by turning the compressor on and off. The only difference is that you exchange a few on/off cycles with one longer on-cycle when you get back. I would say that does not negatively affect fridge lifetime, and might even improve lifetime because the total on-time is reduced as well as the number of cycles. The only thing I ...


9

Yes, it's a terrible idea. People really don't get that their kitchen appliances are the heaviest draw plug-in loads in the home. Yes, really, that silly little $18 hot plate draws a full 1500 watts (12.5 amps). Don't "nahhh" me, it's true. Go look. And when you're done, check out that $12 hair dryer and $15 heater-fan. So putting any kitchen appliance ...


8

In NYC, you will have 208V power. It's 3-phase, but that won't be an issue. Grounding path Through discussion, we've determined fairly conclusively that a) this complex's wiring is grounded, and b) the grounding is via conduit or AC cable jackets, NOT individually run ground wires. OP reports that his "sub?" Panel has no ground wires at all, yet ...


6

I would just drill two holes into the tile and use plastic anchors to face mount it to the tiles. Raise it up slightly so the wires are in the recessed portion. I wouldn't think super glue would work well here. Silicone may work but may end up looking messy.


6

The only problem I can see is that the wiring internal to a pendant lamp is probably not rated for the 20A that is typically needed for kitchen outlets. Another option might be a flush mounted floor outlet:


6

First, a cautionary note: I don't know if there is any code regarding "disposal switch next to light switch". Obviously you have that right now. But two smaller switches is even more "a bit close for comfort". Personally, I am used to the only switch right near a sink being for the disposal. I would be concerned that having two switches next to each other ...


6

In most cases those will work nicely. At times, though, drawing force is substantial. The world isn't flat and level and hardwoods can be stubborn. Feel free to use those screws, properly piloted and countersunk, but be prepared to use conventional flute-head screws (gold construction screws) behind hinges or in other hidden locations to do some heavy ...


5

TL;DR: Put it on its own circuit or on a lighting circuit, but never on a kitchen receptacle circuit Your options here are to put it on its own circuit (always works, but takes up panel space) or to put it on a lighting circuit (always works for hardwired hoods, may work for cord-and-plug connected hoods, ask your inspector for details). Putting it on a ...


5

Looks like this YouTube video answers the question: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp8365lEGjY You have to release metal clips at both spring's ends to release it, and the new spring can just click in. German name for the whole appliance is "Hochschwenkbeschlag", no idea how to call it in English.


5

I think for a temporary fix you could use a good two-part epoxy. I don't consider it a DIY thing to completely restore a sink like that, but there are companies that refresh bathtubs. I'm not sure what they apply would be robust enough for a sink, though. From the look of the nearby chips and the crack extending from the new damage, that sink has served ...


5

It is an Olive stick for eating Olives.


5

These switches are on separate circuits. They must never touch or cross. To really get the picture, it would be nice if there was a divider in that box. It is not possible to put a receptacle on the lamp circuit because it is a switch loop. What else is on the circuit with the disposal? If the hardwired loads on the disposal circuit total 50% or ...


4

Well those stupid infomercials would say to "wrap it in flex tape," don't do that, or wrap it in rags. (Fiber fix would be better then both, but please fix it properly.) That looks like a copper compression fitting. As such just tightening it probably will not stop the leak. There is a small chance that will work, it may have just worked its way loose over ...


4

Since it is not actually serving the countertop and appears to be a reasonable distance from a sink, apparently this does not need to be GFCI protected. However, GFCI protection may still be a good idea, either at the receptacle (which I can see it is not), at the breaker or somewhere in between. While it is unlikely that you'll be reaching down to plug/...


4

Even though you are replacing a backsplash you are not really remodeling or upgrading your electrical. I can't speak for every inspector but most would say it is alright to leave your receptacles as is under the grandfather clause. One important note, even though you are being allowed to leave the receptacles in place I would recommend you add GFCI ...


4

It's hard on the compressor because a fridge is designed to have a few number of room temperature to preset temperature cool-downs but it will maintain that temperature for several years. When it has to do this major cool-down, it runs constantly for several hours until the air inside is at the preset temperature. It would shorten the lifespan of the ...


4

Tandem breakers are totally legit and are two totally separate circuits. In fact they can ONLY be two totally separate circuits. The error that people sometimes make is in thinking that they can use the two poles of a tandem breaker as a 240V circuit, and THAT will not work.


4

Yeah, that's BX/AC, so ground to the box Looking at your closeup shot, I can tell that between the fact that the cable armor is stopped by the fitting (instead of a cable jacket, which will poke out into the box through the cable clamp as a general rule), the lack of a ground wire entering the box (which rules out type MC), and the individual paper wraps ...


3

You need to loosen the 3 screws that push the collar (top piece in your image) against the bracket (bottom piece) into the sink. Once that is done, a lock ring will be visible (underneath where the collar currently sits). Use some pliers to remove that, and then all the pieces on the underside can be removed. You can then break the putty / silicone to remove ...


3

Corbels are commonly used (as opposed to L-brackets), and they should work fine with your cabinet panel, assuming appropriate screws are used. Most of the force applied is in shear (up and down). You could also install a sheet of 3/4" BC plywood onto your cabinet (nicer side down), and lay the laminate top onto that. The plywood should fit neatly inside ...


3

Bad idea. Those large NEMA 10-50 connectors are not made for frequent use. Because of the very high insertion force, they are actually much more fragile than you would assume. Also, you are almost certainly dealing with old 3-prong NEMA 10 ungrounded connectors. Dryers or stoves connect via an exception in the electrical code, in which they are allowed ...


3

All the moisture will head right back around if you are (as seems to be the case) talking about one of those useless hood-shaped objects that don't actually vent outside. Carbon does not trap water, and if it did, or you put in something that did, you'd have to change it very, very frequently. Indeed, the "filtration" provided by such hood-shaped objects ...


3

Using a "brand new" razor blade will remove the bulk of it. Scrape very gently against the dried glue at a sharp angle. Then use some #000 or #0000 steel wool to remove the remaining residue. Then wipe the area down well. I wouldn't suggest any harsh chemicals, it might dull the shine. Soap and water with a small amount of rubbing alcohol is about as far as ...


3

"while moving it's door came out" That's the key. A microwave oven is an extremely safe device as long as the door is closed when in use. It is an extremely dangerous device if it is used with the door open. In order to make absolutely certain that nobody will ever turn on a microwave oven with the door open, there are normally multiple interlocks or ...


3

As many have mentioned the exhaust duct needs to be sized properly, I have seen folks spend a lot on higher cfm fans that did no better because the root problem was the home was sealed so no air could get in to efficiently allow the hood to do its job. Try opening a window and see if the hood works better. If no change the duct may be two small, if the hood ...


3

From the comments: I haven't replaced the charcoal filters in several years That is very possibly the key right there. Just like a clothes dryer won't work properly if the lint trap is clogged, and just like a HVAC system won't work properly if the air filter is clogged, and just like your car engine won't work properly if the air filter is clogged, your ...


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