31

What you want is a basin wrench: (Source) The left end pivots so you can reach up under the sink and access the nut. That said, you have some serious corrosion going on there. You might have to go with destructive methods, perhaps involving grinding off the top of the faucet.


20

A kitchen sink is usually relatively large and when made of porcelain it's probably pretty heavy. The putty knife is a good idea but you're fighting against not just the silicone but also the weight of the sink. Also make sure you're not fighting against the plumbing -- the drain or the faucet supply pipes could hamper your efforts. Find a way to apply some ...


16

April 13, 2016 Purpose: There is some disagreement as to whether boiling water can be poured down a residential kitchen sink without damaging the drain pipe. It might be assumed that if the pipe drains quickly, the amount of time necessary to cause damage would be greater than the actual time that the boiling water would be present in any particular ...


13

Jack up the sink slowly. Take all of the plumbing out, get a car jack or any other type of small jack, put a piece of a 2x6/8 in between and push that thing up. Once you get a little bit of upward tension you will see the areas that are stuck and they should have a few mm showing where you can cut the caulk. My go-tos are WD 40 and goo-gone. Give those ...


12

Yes - that's a "tailpiece" - the new one may be too long, if so, they are made that way so you can cut them to fit - but there's also considerable space to slide them built into the connections, so don't overdo cutting them down.


11

Good pictures. You have an unusual configuration for that drain. Typically, there is only one drain line coming from the wall into the kitchen cabinet. That would have one trap and upstream of the trap are the sink, disposal, and perhaps a dishwasher drain (you don't appear to have one in this cabinet.) What you have is not necessarily wrong, but if you ...


10

That's known as a slip joint. If you remove the slip nut, you should find a beveled washer on the pipe. To put the joint together, you'll slide the slip nut onto the upper pipe, followed by the beveled washer (bevel side down). Then you'll slip the upper pipe inside the lower pipe, and use the nut to tighten the joint. Looks like it's a waste tee similar ...


10

Replace that 4 way junction with two wyes offset from each other (you might drop the disposal trap a few inches to achieve this) and extend the aav arm as high as possible. The pressure from the disposal may be forcing the aav shut, and between the poor configuration of the hub and the resultant lack of venting the opposite sink is the path of least ...


9

You could use a box spanner, the pipe will go up the body of the spanner and the pin used to turn the spanner is not fixed. I have used basin wrenches ( I know them as tap wrenches ) but sometime get frustrated with them!


9

Get rid of that double trap setup and that PVC tee monster. Configure a single p-trap to a waste ell on the vertical waste pipe coming out of the floor. A baffle tee goes to the top of the trap with the garbage disposer dumping into the top of it and the other sink plumbed into the side port of the baffle tee. Do not use any of that flexible accordion type ...


7

I know this has gotten a bit off topic, but in an attempt to answer the question - according to my wife, a hygienist - your best bet is to use: Fluoridated toothpaste Take a fluoride supplement However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water and I am not asking about these alternative methods. Too much fluoride can harm you. ...


7

File a bit of steel pipe so that you have two pins that match the notches in the nut - this will lengthen the nut to a point where you can apply normal tools.


7

Your faucet has a removable sprayer part. #2 is the hose that goes to this, it runs through the inside of the faucet and is attached to the faucet temperature valve on one and, and the handheld sprayer on the other end. If you pull the sprayer out, you should see this hose move. #3 is just a weight. This is attached to the hose to help the sprayer slide back ...


7

Et voila. This is what you should aim for, but where I drew the red circle you'll replace the wall tube with another tee that goes up to the vent and down to the drain. Turn the disposal around as pictured here. Use drain tube just as pictured here rather than gluing anything then it's easy to align everything and you don't need a cleanout.


6

In the UK this would be called a compression waste fitting. There is a rubber ring that goes around the pipe, and is squashed by tightening the nut, in order to achieve a watertight seal. The pipe should go past the nut, into the fitting, until it stops. This would probably be an inch (25mm) or slightly more. To fix the joint: Unscrew the nut Remove the ...


6

You should find a set screw under the small colored plug.


6

First of all, do you in fact have PVC pipes? Lots of older houses have cast iron end-to-end, so nothing at all to worry about in that case. Even if you do have PVC, I don't think there's any serious concern, with the very slight possibility of an effect the drain trap (if any) right under the sink. While continuous immersion in 100° C water might soften ...


6

If it is warpage (that should be a word)... you can sand out that area given this isn't stone. You could sand a groove for that and set the back into it. I am just look at a picture but it looks like the back of the sink has a little bend on it (is the other side look exactly the same?). The first 80% seems straight though. So I am not sure if that bend ...


5

Most commercially purchased drop in sinks as easy to remove and reinstall. Only custom built ins are not so easy. Commercial drop ins are held in place by clamps up under the sink and or silicone RTV. When removing in future the clamps are loosened and the RTV cut away. The sink pulled and cleaned then reused. Check the sink you plan to purchase and see ...


5

The round hole/port where the conduit fitting is located is actually a threaded port. If you unscrew the locking nut on the fitting, you will then be able to unscrew the threaded conduit fitting from the threaded port. Threaded port: Seal-tite conduit connector:


5

I believe this is not uncommon. The circuit must be protected by an RCD (RCBO). There is usually a means of disconnecting or isolating the socket from above if the socket is inaccessible when appliances are installed. However see NICEIC/ELECSA Guide to Electrical Work in the Kitchen Electrical sockets or switches should be fitted at a safe distance (it ...


5

I think for a temporary fix you could use a good two-part epoxy. I don't consider it a DIY thing to completely restore a sink like that, but there are companies that refresh bathtubs. I'm not sure what they apply would be robust enough for a sink, though. From the look of the nearby chips and the crack extending from the new damage, that sink has served ...


5

It looks like my glass/ bottle washer. Is there a knob that turns the hot water on? Mine only had hot water ran the sink until hot set the glass on the wash push the button it would go for 20~ seconds great for rinsing home brew bottles out, those I had to hold the bottle in place because I lost the holder.


5

I do not think that it is technically a "washer". It is more for rinsing a glass, by itself it is not enough to wash the glass. These are used in bars for draft beer. If you rinse a pint/beer glass with cold water just before you fill it with draft beer it will prevent the the beer for foaming to much which will result in to big of a head on the beer. As ...


5

It could possibly be a clean out valve. These valves are often found under sinks which clog easily and/or often (like the kitchen sink), because they provide an easy way for a plumber to access the clog. It is much easier for a plumber to access a clog in a drainpipe that has a clean out valve, because the plumber can access the clog through the valve, which ...


5

Apologies for the mickey mouse sketches. There are lots of CAD gurus here who would rightly shame me for this .... but anyway .... top is what I believe @JimmyFix-it intends. I think it's the better suggestion. Bottom is roughly what I've suggested. Shaded in the top diagram, two baffle tees, and in the bottom, two wyes offset vertically. Yes there's ...


4

You need to use a pair of long nose pliers like this: There is also a good bet that an ordinary pair of pliers would do the trick as well:


4

It is a "push-to-connect" fitting. You disconnect by pushing the tube, pushing the gray ring, then (while still pushing the gray ring) pulling the tube:


4

To avoid cross-threading, spin it backwards until you feel it drop into another thread; this is where and when it's lined up. First attach it to the sink and then fight with other connection, leaving everything lose until it's all fitted together. For the fitting you have, turn this picture up-side down: (make sure the grommet is properly orientated) The ...


4

It seems that Moen has an outstanding customer support, and after emailing them a couple pictures of my faucet to confirm the model they emailed me back instructions to replace the cartridge (along with a confirmation of the cartridge my model was using). S o basically: Turn water supply off Use an allen wrench to remove the faucet's handle Grab the collar ...


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