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2

Cat walk or rat walk is what we called them. We usually laid them flat and would staple the romex. They keep the boards from moving and cracking the Sheetrock, since you are decking the area make sure to do the same with the decking or as you move around it will damage the Sheetrock.


2

That appears to be a joist sitting on top of a double plate. You then have some OSB, and another 2x4 being the bottom of your next set of walls. Behind that joist is probably nothing. However it could be a stack- but I'd guess even if there are two there's still going to be a gap of about 1/2" to 3/4" in the center of it, straight through. You can drill ...


7

Yes, you can. It will not affect it structurally, given you are only drilling relatively small (3/4” or so) holes. You won’t want to drill a large plumbing line through it.


1

If you use machine bolts and washers on the side that doesn’t line up with your joists (through the 3/4 board ) that should provide the strength you need.


2

This shouldn't be a big ordeal - just get a 2x6 and cut it so that it spans at least 2 joists when oriented in the direction you want the pullup bar (perpendicular). Use lag bolts to secure the 2x6 to the joists, then use more lag bolts to secure the pullup bar to your 2x6. If that seems to have too much flex for you (I doubt it), you can always double up ...


2

Yes you can you will need to frame in the opening to the existing framework, I would suggest new work in this case to be larger or thicker as today’s wood is total crap compared to your construction. What I mean if you have 2x6 in that old wood I would go with 2x8 or 4x6 ,, sounds funny but count the rings on your boards and today’s boards will be 1/3 to 1/4 ...


1

Floor joists can bend (deflect) without breaking. However, certain kinds of flooring cannot deflect much or they’ll crack (or the grout joints between them will crack). Each material is rated for maximum deflection. Ceramic tile happens to be one of those materials that cannot deflect much without cracking. At a 12’-0” span, most lumber species will ...


0

When I tiled my kitchen, I used this deflection calculator to see if my joists would be okay. https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl Double-check it for yourself, but it seems that you would have too much deflection and should consider addressing that before installing the tile. If your joists are 11 feet from the supports, it would be okay for ...


4

It looks like it is on top of a wall so it is being used as a nailer. I believe that is why.


3

If we're talking about any sort of engineered joist (truss, TJI), stop reading now and consult a local engineer. This answer assumes solid 2x10 lumber. I'm guessing that you don't mean a header so much as a joist fit between the sistered joists alongside. Since the span is so short (presumably 32" or less), you can use a single joist of the same height as ...


1

Issue #1: Yes, you are correct. Those older, larger, joists (even using Douglas Fir - Larch species and Select Structural grade) they DO NOT meet the current structural code. If I did my calculations correctly, they barely meet code (40 psf Live Load plus 15 psf Dead Load) for a 12’ span. You’ll need to add additional floor joists. Issue #1.5: The ...


0

First those original beams have 2x the strength of anything you can purchase today! So explain how they did not meet code. I have remodeled many pre 1930 homes in the PNW and if you do not have rot or pest damage those old 2x are fine. They will have many more growth rings and be close to clear. The ring count was removed from the books decades back today a ...


0

None of this is a good idea. Better to seal the entire crawl space water tight with very low vapor permeance. If possible insulate the crawl space as well (not the floor joists). This is usually cheaper than insulation for the joists. Then go ahead and allow a small amount of building AC into the crawl. This resolves all the issues and the sealing would be ...


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