30

These are Hose Guides. They're usually placed near deck posts and similar obstructions to stop your water hose from kinking when you pull it around a corner. They're also used near gardens to stop you dragging the hose through the garden and ruining your planting. Possibly this one:


20

Your best bet would be to get some 1/2" PVC Couplings with threaded port and some Misting Nozzles. You should be able to find them both online, or at your local landscaping/gardening center. This setup would allow you to get the desired spray pattern, by selecting the appropriate nozzles.


15

User Matthew is correct that a nipple extractor may help you salvage the tee. You need to check the threads in the Tee for any damage, since if the threads are scratched you may get a leak. If the tee is badly damaged If the tee can’t be reused, you will need to replace it. This part is readily available at any home-improvement store (but see below). ...


12

That is a strainer wye. There is a metal mesh filter in there to trap sediment/debris; it can be removed and cleaned as necessary.


11

There is a tool called a nipple extractor. It can be used to remove broken threaded parts just like this. You can find one online or from any irrigation supply or DIY retailer likely for under $15. You firmly press it into the broken part and turn to remove it.


8

I'd try to go through the slab and then below it. Most slabs are 6" thick with gravel underneath. You can rent a concrete core drill for around $60 from home depot. Stick a hole in your slab. Then you can use something called a 'sidewalk sleever' to tunnel under the slab. Then install pipe (a little tricky due to the elbow, and fill your hole back up ...


7

I haven't tried this, so no idea if it'd work, but one thought would be to find a needle and a torch. Get the needle as hot as you can and then poke it into the PVC to melt a tiny hole.


7

Clogged line There could be a clog in the lines feeding some of the sprinklers, or clogged up sprinkler heads. Remove all the sprinkler heads (the procedure will vary based on the type of heads). Inspect and clean the heads. Turn the system on. If you don't notice any dirt or gunk coming out, and the pressure does not increase in the low flowing outlets. ...


7

The best lubrication I've found is some good ol' Elbow Grease™. Actually, you should measure the proper lengths and just cut. Then glue it up and install. You can mark on the PVC how far it should go into the fitting if you want to be really precise. However PVC itself expands and contracts a lot with temperature change and is fairly flexible anyway. So, in ...


5

That looks like a very flimsy coupling, as it barely has anything to hang on to. Better to use a regular PVC barbed coupling, which looks like this: Usually you use a stainless steel clamp around the connections: With bigger/thicker pipe, you sometimes need to heat the pipe using a torch slightly -- just get it a bit pliable so you can get the fitting in, ...


4

Although I'm not convinced a round hole of any size will give you the misting pattern you are looking for, micro-sized drill bits and an accompanying hand tool (pin-vise) are actually not that expensive, and will last you a long time (if not abused ;) ). For ~$20 you can get a pin-vise and micro bits from many hobby shops (real or on-line). Alternatively,...


4

You have two choices depending on whether you have continuous areas of plants to water or discrete plants to water. For the latter, you would use drip emitters, bubblers or misters like these: http://www.rainbird.com/landscape/products/dripEmission/XeriBugEmitters.htm http://www.rainbird.com/landscape/products/dripEmission/XeriBubblers.htm http://www....


4

You will need a concrete saw that has about a 12 or 14" diamond blade to cut all the way through the slab. These are a rental item. Ask the guy at the counter what would be the size of blade you need to cut it. These type of saws can have water feed to the blade so the blade stays cool, which is a safer way to cut, and practically eliminates all the dust ...


3

It looks like the Green or Green/White wire is also hooked up. He used 4 twisted pairs, most commonly used as Ethernet wire (the one that you use for internet on your computer, router, modem, etc.) and is most likely a Category 5 cable. It is a relative cheap cable that has 8 wires, looks like he only needed a few but it is easier and cheaper to use what you ...


3

Are the sprinkler heads attached to the underside of the supply line? The proper way to design this system would be to have the sprinkler attach to the top of the supply line instead of the bottom. With the sprinkler heads attached above the supply line, the most excess water that would be drained is the water in the short pipe above the sprinkler head.


3

When drip irrigation connectors leak, it is usually because the hole that was punched into the 1/2" hose is too large. This can happen when you try to re-punch the hole because the 1st punch did not go all the through and you can't get your connector into the line. When you try to re-punch a hole it's extremely hard to get the punch in exactly the same ...


3

3/4" solenoid valves use around 20 to 30 VA. to open. Look on the name plate and it should say what the VA. or watts is. You can buy a ( 120/208/240) input X 24 volt output transformer Rated at 60 va.for about $50.00. I saw on Amazon a Siemens MTO100C 120/208/240volt X 24 volt, 100VA. for about the same price.


3

Simplest 100% legal way would be to make it use rain water directly from storage containers, and then a float valve that fills the rain barrel with city water if the water level gets below a certain level. This would also allow you to maintain an airgap between potable and non-potable water sources. You're losing the free water pressure from the city water, ...


3

If your available tools include a sledgehammer, just use that, held vertically, head down, pick it up and drop it, repeatedly, every 2 or 3 inches of soil fill (you cannot effectively tamp thicker layers of soil with hand tools.) Forget the wood block.


3

Yes, you want a water pressure gauge with a female hose thread. There are some on Amazon for less than US$10.


2

The first thing Shawn said was "new house that is still under warranty". So all these detailed debugging suggestions are really beside the point. The builder is the GENERAL contractor. That means HE should be figuring out which subcontractor to send out to analyze the system and talking to them to get their report and deciding what to do next. Shawn should ...


2

Since you don't mention it, you have probably left out the pressure regulator. The pressure tolerance of drip systems is pretty low. Ideally they like to run around 25-30 PSI. Most homes have 50 PSI or more. In my case, it's 120 PSI. You should also consider getting a filter at the same time you get the pressure regulator.


2

To answer my own question (after a bit of research)... In terms of following standard sprinkler system layouts, there is no technical reason why a downward sloping pipe would just end and be bent. This seems to be a unique feature to this system. Most likely, the pipe was laid for future expansion. Perhaps budget was an important issue at time of ...


2

Champion Irrigation makes a valve called the PCL-100 which is compatible with the body from the APAS-100 (and a PCL-075 which ought to fit the body of the APAS-075), which are available as of this writing. The specific part that I got is the PCL-100-C (not sure what the C means and if the B model works in the same way). The valve fit perfectly onto the ...


2

In most US jurisdictions, from a legal perspective, the work in the basement would fall under the local building code and its permitting, licensing, and inspection requirements...e.g. a splinkler contractor could not run the pipes inside the house and a plumber would be required, building department fees would be applicable, etc. The pipe running through ...


2

I use a multi-port automatic sprinkler valve coupled to an 8-way drip irrigation manifold, and use city water pressure.


2

Dry Pump failure modes Some irrigation pumps are created the impeller housing casting an integral part of the motor and depend on the water flow through the pump to dissipate heat instead of using rotor fins and airflow for cooling. The reason for doing this is that they tend to be in high moisture locations or locations where detritus can be sucked into ...


2

The best way to deal with this does not involve digging up your whole lawn. You just need to dig up the area around the sprinkler head that needs to be lowered. Once you dig out the area cut off the existing 90 degree elbow that is in there feeding up. Cut on the horizontal pipe about 5 to 6" from the existing elbow. Next you would install two 45 degree ...


2

This would be called a shuttle valve... They are quite common in hydraulic control systems. The only use I can find for irrigation is small 1/8" and 1/4" units for agricultural irrigation controls. Usual implementation is a stainless steel ball that rolls back and forth between two brass seats.


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