38

Ho Le Crap! most of the pics you are showing involved phone service, not in house Ethernet / LAN. Your 6 pin connectors are for RJ16 jacks/plugs (3 line phone service). RJ45 requires 8 conductors and an 8 pin jack/plug. cat5e or cat6 can be terminated on a patch panel, but not a punch down block ("A" in your pics). It can be pretty simple: Connect all ...


26

To directly answer your question, there is direct bury ethernet cable. You would probably want to go at least 18" deep with it. But there is still a chance it will break, and then you'll be replacing the whole run, so it might make sense to place it in conduit right away to make future replacement easier. However, the real issue is that 1000 ft is much ...


19

Answering your questions in order to the best of my ability: Your cabling is currently connected to a telephone style punch-down block. For standard computer networking, I would purchase a RJ45 patch panel instead, and connect each cable to its own patch panel jack. I will defer to other commenters on how to best avoid interfering with telephone service ...


18

Should a cable that long be in conduit? Yes, that's a good idea, primarily because it'll be easier to repair or replace if/when something goes wrong. CAT6 cable is probably not the best solution to your problem though. As others have noted, there are multiple ways of peeling this onion. Wireless is feasible -- you can get a gigabit-capable wireless bridge ...


15

I did the unthinkable, and started to read the manual for the product you linked, and in the troubleshooting section there is a theme: Try another wall socket and make sure all powerline devices are on the same electrical circuit. If you search the PDF for "circuit" you find this phrase several times. I didn't find where the manual lists using ...


12

Let's assume your local fibre optic company is indeed providing a fiber optic connection. There's two ways that could work: Their normal model is "FTTC" - "Fiber to the cabinet". They have fiber to some roadside cabinet, and the cable between the cabinet and the premises is normally copper telephone cable (at least in the UK). The ...


11

Here's the caveat with old coaxial cable. If this is an older house, it might have cable already, but it's probably RG-59. This is from back in the days of analog signals, well before we were sending digital signals down them. If you have a satellite dish, you'll note they need RG-6 or better. What's the difference? Shielding Now, it's possible there's no ...


8

Pin 6 is not crimped. Your crimp die is defective or you need to try again. All the pins should be at the same level. But really, punch-down into jacks and buy patch cables as already suggested. Cheaper and more reliable.


8

(Lots of) Home runs are good You are correct that you want to run a cable to each room from the central switch. In fact, I would run at least 1 more cable than you think you will need to each room, and consider running a line or 2 to other rooms as well - especially if your walls are open. Cable is cheap, and pulling 4 cables instead of 3 is no more work ...


8

I haven't reviewed all your options yet, but the "expansion board" is a non-starter. It's a TELEPHONE expansion board and will NOT work as you expect. You can't just connect computers in parallel like phones. What need there is a LAN SWITCH and all the appropriate re-wiring in your LV panel. Maybe I'll add to this later...just wanted to let you ...


7

It looks like this was originally intended for telephone service distribution. There's a few ways to go about it depending on how neat and tidy you want the job to look. You can pull those blue wires free from the termination block, crimp them with rj-45 heads, and plug them into your switch. Quicker, Easier, Cheapest. You can replace the punchdown block ...


7

First, make sure that your three supply cables are paired properly. The unit has 3 heaters internally. There are several ways cables could be crossed that would result in power from 1 heater coming up one cable and returning on another cable. The heater would work properly, but would kick stupid large amounts of EMF from the two imbalanced cables. Just ...


7

Cross-phase communication for power line carrier products can be a challenging problem. (see a white paper from Intellon, a manufacturer of PLC devices, there.) You may be able to improve the coupling between phases, at least for a short time, by turning on an electric-powered heating appliance such as a range, oven, clothes dryer, or water heater. If ...


6

Get a UPS No, not that UPS. An uninterruptible power supply, also known as a battery backup. This is a box that takes normal AC (e.g., 110-120V in the US) and uses it to charge a battery and power your devices. If power goes out (technically: voltage out of range) then it uses an inverter to power your devices from the battery. All automatically. You ...


6

You can, but it's a VERY poor solution. You've crossed into my professional sphere of operations. Also, if using coax, get extenders that are intended to work over coax - twisted pair and coax are quite different. Both types of converters are made. Even if the mere thought terrifies the heck out of you, fiber is the sensible solution to this problem. It ...


6

My electrician who is wiring the place suggested that I use one ethernet cable and loop it for all devices, This will not work. Don't do this. Your thought of running a dedicated cable to each place it is needed is correct. In my house, I put 2 cables to each room, connected to a single wall plate with 2 jacks on it. I was in a similar situation as you,...


6

There's probably a gob of cable terminations in your basement or utility room. You'll need to find the two cables that go to the rooms involved (or simply place your modem there). With any luck they're labeled. Using a pass-through splicer, connect those two. You should now have a continuous route between rooms, and the only question is whether the ...


6

Even though the cable is good enough for Ethernet transport, you need to change the topology. Basically, your PC, routers, etc... all expect to be connected point to point. PC at one end, router at the other end, for example. Right now, you have all the endpoints connected together. Buy a network switch or hub, install it where all the wires connect. For ...


5

Sell it (or leave it as a decoy/deterrent somewhere else you need that) and get a deer camera. Deer cameras are designed for sticking out in the woods to surveil potential deer activity along trails. Hunters use them to plan their hunts. They are motion activated and, you know how many consumer products use those bitsy AA batteries and have a short ...


5

As I understand there is an USB option on the camera. The easiest solution I can think of is connecting it on a raspberry pi which you can connect to you wireless network and retrieve the data daily. You can check out this totorial https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-webcam-server/ where they are doing the stuff you want to achieve.


5

Long shot...if I'm wrong I'll delete. 112 Amps is a HUGE draw. As you probably know, many houses have a total 100 Amp (sometimes less) service. If your service drop isn't significantly larger, or even if it is but the utility didn't provision it well (e.g., they can, as I understand from other questions regarding service-entrance vs. "other" cables for 100A ...


5

Stated another way, your options are to make the best use possible of the cable that's already installed or install new cable that suits your need better. Ethernet outdoors There exist environmentally hardened Ethernet switches designed for outdoor use, but you won't find them on the shelf at the local big box electronics store and they'll cost more than ...


5

Step 1: Bring your router to the demarc point and verify that it works there. You did not mention if you had done this, but if not, you should, as the whole point of a demarc is to say: "If it does not work here the provider needs to fix it. If it does work here the problem is in your wiring." So you need to test that. THEN you can start to concern yourself ...


5

I'd say it's a six-conductor eight-pin RJ-type connector, which means it is not Ethernet. It's likely a (multi-line?) phone connection.


4

The basic problem with installing fiber is it's glass, and glass doesn't bend well. That thin white fiber cable has a minimum bend radius of somewhere around 10 cm, so if you pull it tight around a corner the glass inside it breaks. And splices are not easy. The typical solution is install the fiber modem in the best place for the fiber, and then run a ...


4

American residential power is usually two split-phase legs off a power pole mounted transformer with a center-tapped secondary winding. The center tap is connected to the house neutral. You'll get the best connection if your two powerline adapters are on the same circuit, but you have a good chance of them working even if they are not on the same circuit as ...


3

For connecting the router to your phone line, you need to find the 'ISRA punt' (this is specific to the Netherlands). This is where the phone company line from outside connects to the phone wiring in your house. The cable up to the ISRA punt is owned by the phone company and you're not allowed to modify it. You are allowed to modify the wiring that comes out ...


3

If you look to the NEC, which in the US is probably the only legal standard the install will be held to, you don't really have an issue. The NEC doesn't require any separation between the NM and the Cat 6 cable. (See 800.133(A)(2): Other Applications. Communications circuits must maintain 2 in. of separation from electric power or Class 1 circuit ...


3

Google Earth is actually quite helpful without fussing with drones at getting a pretty good idea of the profile along a path. You have to look for it, but it's there in the detailed information about the path. Bring up GE, find you, find the tower, draw a path. There are probably other programs, but that's the one I happen to know and use. Radio signals do ...


3

When you're learning to crimping these, you really need to have a cable tester. These plug into both ends and cycle through each conductor, showing you if there are any disconnected or miswired. Once you identify the problem you can fix it. Be prepared to cut off and redo connectors a few times while learning.


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