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It is not doing any harm as far as heating or cooling your house but to stop possible critters and water damage you will need to block with flashing if it is on the roof side or sofit / fahcia should have gone further. Looks like poor craftman ship.


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Here is a good picture showing the bottoms of the lift slide doors I installed. The 16' ones were on another job, these are only offer a 10' opening. The pics showing the upper half are kinda dark. Is this something that may work for you?


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Yes, I believe there is a strong possibility that is asbestos. Please get it tested and, if confirmed, professionally abated. I believe there are some fiberglass-based products that would be a good choice today.


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You can build a picture frame around the box - basically building the wall framing out enough that you can get a piece of foam insulating board on top of the back of the box. Even 1/2" of polyisocyanurate (R=3.2) plus the plywood sheathing and the sheetrock is going to give you less heat loss than that window the box is next to.


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If you have some space between the meter box and the face of the sheetrock (I think you do but pictures can be misleading) then a sheet of rigid foam insulation of that thickness may give you a bit more insulation right over the box than you'd get from that much fiberglass, or just leaving a hole in the insulation over the box. Should be no issue with ...


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It's very likely fiberglass since that's what's been used in water heaters for many years. You didn't specify how old it is and if it's "ancient" there does exist that possibility. If in doubt, get it tested and properly disposed of by a licensed abatement contractor. I suspect, however, that old is 10-15 years which is "forever" in water heater years and ...


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No you are not out to lunch, but you should not put in the vapour barrier. The rigid insulation is an air/moisture barrier, and you should tape the seams to make it a comprehensive seal. Then you can frame and use bat insulation for extra insulation. The extra vapour barrier is at best an extra expense, but you also run the risk of trapping moisture behind ...


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If you insulate as pictured you reduce the cold surface area and prevent some passage of cold air between the boards which could improve things a good bit but you still have a cold bridge from the joists to the floor. I think you would achieve a greater gain by laying a floating floor with a continuous layer of solid insulation boards over the existing ...


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Kerdi is waterproof so you do not add additional barriers because as you stated, you don't want to trap moisture. Just make sure to follow all the directions and tips for successfully installing the Kerdi board.


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I don't know that there is a "perfect" way to insulate basement walls. When I built my house, 40+ years ago I did this: outside layer of foam board mastic (tar) on outside of block inside wall, 6 mil vapor barrier, taped fir studs, with high R board drywall I have not had moisture problems, but mileage will vary. One's biggest concern will be heat loss,...


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If you have wires/cables that run across the top of the attic floor joists, you could build up the joist with ripped 2x4's that would provide another 1-1/2 inch clearance above the joists for the wires. You would have to provide a gap between the added sections of wood to provide a channel for the wires to lay in. Or lay 2x4's flat perpendicular to the ...


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"Water hammer" is the result of any sudden change in pressure or flow in a pipe. Liquids (water) don't compress or expand, so when there is a sudden change in pressure or flow, the kinetic energy of the liquid gets converted to an energy shock wave that travels up and down the pipes looking for a place to dissipate, in this case as mechanical movement of the ...


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You can control the depth of cut very accurately with a circular saw. However, banging pipes are usually caused by water-hammer, and securing the pipes doesn't completely cure the problem. You (or a plumber) can install a shock arrestor (various types are available) near the valve that is causing the problem.


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It doesn’t matter if there’s a 2” air gap or 2’ air gap between the ceiling insulation and the ceiling finish, the air gap is considered part of the living space AND will be conditioned to the room temperature. (You are heating/air conditioning an extra 2” of ceiling space.) The graph is confusing because it’s rotated 90 degrees to how the space is ...


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Just thought I'd give ya'll a heads-up since this might be used as a resource for someone. I had it tested. Turns out, it didn't have any asbestos in it - 90% mineral wool, 5% fiberglass, 5% binding agent. Thanks to all who commented.


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Sounds like a sloppy install to me, and as a result the insulation that's not in continuous contact with the ceiling panels is doing nothing. If air can circulate around the insulation, virtually no heat is retained or blocked (in winter and summer, respectively). If this was some sort of intentional air gap there would also be an air barrier over the ...


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An air layer is sometimes part of insulation constructions in order to get rid of moisture, depending on the location of the due point. A reliable way to get all necessary information is to input each layer into the "Ubakus"-Site, which is free for private use: Ubakus.de


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I think you can do air/moisture/heat in one shot by using spray foam behind foam panels. Buy two cans of max-expansion spray foam. One may do, but it's best to have enough on hand. Cut 1-1/2" or 2" foam panel to fit each bay reasonably well. The plan is basically this: Spray a layer of foam on the mortar / set the foam panel in place / let the foam cure ...


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Since you're in a cold zone (zone 5), I think your biggest problem is going to be (relatively) warm, moist air in the basement condensing on the cold rim joist. If that's the case, then you want to put the insulation against the brick/stone/mortar, then a vapor barrier facing the basement. This is to prevent any warm, moist air from mirgating through the ...


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