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From Radiant Engineering, thanks for discussing our ThermoFin U product. The preferred method is to install the plates with the fins down. For a ThermoFin U installation on concrete, you would build a surface to be able to screw the plates into by first putting down a layer of Atlas Rboard®, recommended 1/2", which you should be able to get from your local ...


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Choice of normally open or normally closed for a valve actuator is part of the overall controls design process, part of which is considering safety/protective functions. As an example, consider a climate where it gets freezing cold (below 0 degrees C). You have a normally closed heating valve that is closed. Something happens such that your electronic ...


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assuming you are going to put a finished floor over top of all of this, you are going to have to add another layer on top of the radiators to subfloor it. this is going to add another 1/2" or so, 5/8" really. so your total floor height is going to be 1.625" or so, before you put your flooring on. you could easily pour a concrete floor at this thickness if ...


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1) Is there any purpose for this valve other than for removing the pressure gauge? NO, the valve is only there for isolation of the gauge. Gauges like that have a high failure rate (for various reasons) and often need to be replaced "on the run"; that is, while the boiler is still in operation. 2) Is this a huge/expensive/messy accident waiting to ...


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The reason you need to cut off power when replacing a thermostat is to prevent the wires from touching each other in the process of disconnecting and reconnecting all of them. Assuming it is using 24VAC control (you need to measure it to make sure it's not high voltage), you are not in danger of getting shocked, but if the wrong wires touch each other, it ...


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Here in Italy pex is widely used for new heating system (both radiators and underfloor), just check the maximum allowed temperature is high enough (I'd say over 120°C) and you could use it for both flow and return. The story is different if your heating is steam. The slope could be there because originally it was naturally-circulated hot water (hot water) ...


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If your numbers are accurate (that seems like a shockingly low price per therm for 2020): 10.57 cents buys you 13,989.2 BTU at a COP of 4.1 in the heat pump. 14.14 cents buys you 96,700 btu in the furnace, or 95,000 in the boiler. A dollar buys you 132,348 BTU at the heat pump, or 671,852 at the boiler, or 683,875 at the furnace ("heating fuel cost"...


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Yes, that is how modern hydronic heating systems are commonly set up. The main pipes are called the "primary loop" and each set of smaller piping to the radiators is called a "secondary loop". (The technique has been around since at least the 1950's, but it used to be limited mostly to commercial buildings. Its use in residential systems ...


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Can't tell from looking at the picture you posted but it looks like a finned tube hot water baseboard unit. Do you heat your house with a hot water boiler and if not can you elaborate. If I am right and that is a hot water unit, the installer recessed the enclosure into the wall and mounted it directly onto the wall studs. I never liked that type of ...


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I turned off both valves 1 & 2 figuring it isolated most things and valve 2 didn't seem to close all the way. The steps I used to drain were: turn supply off turn return off open hose bibb open bleeder valve on register farthest away. If you don't do this, it seems to drain very slowly. When refilling/purging, it seemed to go better/faster if that ...


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Your idea probably won't work correctly to begin with Your proposed setup probably won't even work quite right, whether you use old-style mechanical thermostats or new-style "smart" thermostats. With two-pole mechanical 'stats (such as the Honeywell CT410B), only one pole is thermostatic as a general rule, with the other pole simply being a ...


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Maybe I am missing something here but the entire loop will still be in the room so there will be heat in the wall And the floor with a longer loop. but my concern would be air trapped in this loop could kill the loop if you don’t have flow restrictors on your manifold.


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I don't have any first hand experience, but I don't think there's anything wrong with using PEX for a hot waater heating system. I base this on two recent observaations. 1) A new $million+ house I was in uses PEX to distribute hot water from a central boiler & manifold to places of use. 2) My son's old house used PEX to send hot water from the boiler ...


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As I mentioned in the comments, I was able to get the correct wiring by referencing an identical heating set up. It is: Red = R/H, jumpered to R/C Blue = G Yellow = W/E


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You say, "the fan would come on with a manual switch". Do you mean the "fan" switch on the old thermostat? Or a line voltage switch elsewhere, like on the fan itself? Normal T-stat wiring is 24v with one wire as the "hot", another as the common and the third as "switched", IE controlled by the t-stat set point, turning on or off the heating equipment. ...


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Well... the way that my father does it is that he isolates the zone from the other zones by shutting off the manual cutoffs. Then attaches a pump to the drain cock on both sides of the zone, and runs the pump -- with luck you'll get the air out of the top of the line and back to the pump, and the auto-fill should replace the water. Alternatively, you may ...


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Replacing the windows with modern double-paned isn't worth the cost; they're not that much better. However, I would recommend looking around for gaps around the windows where the putty stuff has dried out and repairing them. That's a mostly-labor job, and isn't that hard. In general, your first goal should be to seal any gaps. This is not only much cheaper ...


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Stupid me. The fan has a delay of a few minutes after the thermostat calls for heat. I set it to gas and called for heat and waited 10 or so minutes and the fan came on.


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That is actually a very good system you are proposing. My only reservation is that the cost will be excessive for only 2 apartments or zones. This is a new twist for me on a primary/secondary piping system. I have installed them before but this device makes it so much easier.The amount of elbows and other fittings should not be a problem as long as the total ...


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The water that is being vented or bled out when you open the vent could be coming up either the supply or the return line. You could freeze one line and not the other. Is the circulating pump for the boiler running?


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So, there are no service valves on your radiators? If you have service valves and you close one then all flow would stop in a loop.The parallel setup would still work on the other floors. If there are no service valves you would have to break loose a union somewhere in the system remove ½ the union toward the supply and cap the pipe and then turn the ...


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I have used these N/O valves on a system that had a wood/coal boiler as a back up heating system so if properly piped could be used during periods of "power outages" to yield gravity flow and give some heat to the residence.


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This comment pertains specifically to Taco valves, it may or may not be true of other valves intended for geothermal applications. Not all geo systems are open loop. [The geothermal valve] is made from materials that can resist oxygen corrosion more effectively than those in a Zone Sentry valve. Zone Sentry valves are designed for use in closed-loop ...


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There may be other differences as well but the geothermal valve is designed for a higher head pressure. The standard hydronic system is built around reduced pressure. The geothermal valve is expected to deal with standard water pumping and or city pressure.


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A lot of radiators on hot water heat systems, if not, should have what is called a coin vent. These are located at the high points of each radiator. If you do not have these, you need to have them installed. Otherwise you will not remove all the air in the lines and will always have noise in your piping and it will cut down on the efficiency of the unit.


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Heat pump + hydronics is a fantastic combo, provided you can get an air handler that supports it While you are correct that the combination of a heat pump with hydronic backup heat is uncommon, it is not bad by any stretch of the imagination -- when an efficient boiler is used, it will beat a forced-air "dual fuel" setup any day of the week when it comes to ...


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Better idea: flip things on their head You need hot water to run a hydronic heating coil efficiently, far hotter than you'd ever set your water heater to (water heaters struggle to reach 180°F which is the standard temp a hydronic boiler is set to). However, your hydronic load probably pales in comparision to your domestic hot water load most of the ...


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You can mix a kick-space heater with cast iron radiators in the same zone but it is not recommended. My choice would be a "Beacon Morris". It comes in 3 models (sizes), and It has a built in thermostat that allows the fan to run when the water temperature is above 110 degrees F. The best installation would be with a monoflo tee on both the supply and return ...


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Do you have an automatic fill valve? Is there a manual valve in line with it? Try closing the manual valve if there is one. If that solves your problem, adjust and/or replace the automatic fill valve. If you have a (domestic/potable) hot water coil, that could be leaking into the boiler, too. Shut off the domestic hot water supply on the cold side of the ...


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