New answers tagged hvac
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there may be a thermal siphon feeding hot water to the new zone and a check valve could stop that flow. but it really should be an anti-siphon valve, not a regular check valve. (anti siphon valves have increased back pressusre compared to regular check valves)
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I actually figured it out. Very simple fix. Took the blue wire from thermostat that wasn’t in use and wired it together with the brown wire and made a common or “C” wire. Hooked the Ecobee up and it’s running good with no issues.
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There is no advantage of one location over the other, it's all the same air moving through.
Generally there is a bracket or sometimes just a steel rod that is jammed across the opening to prevent the filter from getting sucked in. Maybe yours got lost along the way? Mine did, so I just bought a piece of steel rod and cut it larger than the opening so that I ...
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wood studs that would block the air duct from going directly
I assume you mean straight down in the wall with the mirror on it. I can see the top plate of the wall behind the mirror, and it's doubled. That makes me think it's a load-bearing wall. I could be wrong on that, and if I'm right you'd be taking a big risk in modifying it. So my best advice would ...
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If your numbers are accurate (that seems like a shockingly low price per therm for 2020):
10.57 cents buys you 13,989.2 BTU at a COP of 4.1 in the heat pump.
14.14 cents buys you 96,700 btu in the furnace, or 95,000 in the boiler.
A dollar buys you 132,348 BTU at the heat pump, or 671,852 at the boiler, or 683,875 at the furnace ("heating fuel cost"...
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Per the NWS, the [base 65 heating degree days][1] for Washingtion (or BWI, anyway) are 205 for October, 465 for November, 786 for December, 899 for January, 728 for February, 568 for March and 270 for April.
What is a "base 65 heating degree day?" a day with an average temperature of 50 degrees adds 15 to the HDD count. A day with an average ...
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I had this same warning. And it was only because I had the vent closed on my whole house humidifier, once I opened the humidifier vent it turned right on.
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Need to look at charcoal 'after filters'...Pre filters are the metal grate looking filter that is in there...There is a spot for a after filter...That's what our manual says
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I'm going to slightly disagree with the other answers and guess you have an open hot conductor. Either way, the answer is the same: call the power company and report a power outage. The problem is very likely at the pole, so they'll come out and fix it for free.
For more information on why losing one of your hot conductors will cause the symptoms you're ...
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You have an open or lose neutral and that it dangerous. Call your power company and report an outage... right now. They will respond quickly. These problems are usually their problem and they will fix it for free. In the event that it's your problem, they might still help you out and fix it if they can.
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This may be a problem with the neutral. The a/c condensing unit does not use the neutral so it will work fine, but the air handler inside does use the neutral.
Depending on where an intermittent or loose connection is in the neutral wiring there could be damaging high voltage on some 120 V circuits and low voltage on other 120 V circuits. At the point of a ...
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It looks like a set of tools used to pry up moldings and such.
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It's "trash". This is exactly why I don't like flexible air ducts lines and I only use them if I absolutely have to.
Couple of things:
this fell between connections. Connections should be sealed/taped. That isn't a good sign.
anything in the way of your line will decrease effeciency.
might just be the picture... but your line looks dirty. I ...
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The volume of a round duct can be generally estimated using its cross section. Pi * r^2
For an 8" it's 16Pi
7" is 12.25Pi
5" is 6.25 Pi.
18.5 > 16, so this is an oversized split.
However, using a 6" instead of a 7 gives you 9Pi.
9+6.25=15.25
So splitting an 8 into a 5+6 is a bit smaller, a 5+7 a bit bigger.
Given the choice I'd go 5+7 ...
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You can do it but it will make a larger dead air space I won’t say I haven’t done something like that because I had extra of the larger size and ran out of the smaller.
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Please look at the comments. Your system looks like a down flow system. Possibly an early sealed combustion because of the condensate pump but that’s is probably for just the ac not sure.
This means the combustion system draws fresh air when it is heating.
The 12” maybe larger round duct looks like an addition and the damper (slot with open close) is to ...
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They're not very common in residential, but an outside air duct would connect to the return air duct. Trace out the return air duct and see if there are any smaller ducts attached to it. Or walk around your house and look for the opening the duct would connect to. It would most likely be near the furnace. As for your filter, you can get some foil tape from ...
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OK I have checked this with some engineers and they say that if the max shutoff head is 20 feet, don't have a vertical head of more than 15 feet. (that is what this is referring to)
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You have selected the 230v model, I have the 120V model. The only standing water will be the 8' vertical to the ceiling and then a slight loop to the horizonal section. The horizonal should still have a small slope toward the end where the water is discharged.
I cannot tell if your specific model has the check valve in the outlet. None is described in ...
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The "lift" specification of a small pump is the height to which it will raise water above itself. It is another way of specifying the pressure that the pump produces at its output port. It is not a specification of the distance over which the pump will deliver water.
As your ceiling is eight feet high and the Mars-21786 can raise water up to 16 ...
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Your fan was not running and a hot smell points to a thermal overload in your fan motor tripping.
Why would this happen? The lubricant in the motor has dried out and the bearings are getting stiff if a belt drive it could also include the bearings on the fan itself.
Can it be fixed: Usually yes
The fan motor usually has ports over the ends that lead to the ...
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Yes changing to a finer filter can cause serious damage to your system. I try to always mention this. Each system is set up for a fairly narrow range of back-pressure.
By putting in a a filter that takes smaller particles out it increases the back pressure on the system and can even cause motor failure.
How can this cause motor failure motors cool themselves ...
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no you can't do that. if it connects to the sewer it needs need to either be sealed or have a trap.
Use a fatter pipe eg: (inch and a half) , support it properly and fit a proper trap on the end. the flow rate is low enough that your run can self-vent
but you will need 1:100 slope
maybe find somewhere else to discharge the condensate. it's basically pure ...
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I have used a copper pipe with an angled cut to push through several types of insulation with the plastic pipe following on behind.
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Raising the floor of the duct will restrict airflow it's best to not do too much of that.
You could possibly apply soundproofing to the back of the drywall where the duct is. or just squash it between the duct and the drywall.
replacing the metal skin with wood or drywall will help too.
spray-on automotive soundproofing is another possibility.
A pan duct ...
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I solved a similar problem with a vent line going thru an interior wall to an unconditioned space. I tore down and removed all the old pink insulation. cleaned up everything, dried off the duct. I cleared around both ends of the duct work (within in unconditioned space) and well insulated any air gaps around it's entry thru the wall of the floor. An then ...
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If the ducts do not have sealed air spaces at top and bottom when the ducts get cold the air around it becomes cold. Cold air is denser and heavier so it drops, pulling in fresh humid air from the attic or other airspace. As the air cools with the moisture condensing on the duct and it starts all over again.
Sealing the areas the ductwork goes up the walls ...
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If the duct goes up through outer walls, how much (if any) insulation is around the duct in the wall spaces?
Sounds like cold conditioned air duct meeting warm wet outside air and causing condensation on the outside of the duct, because the duct is buried in a wall and that probably leaves very little, if any, space for insulation around the duct. That ...
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I think some of the answers here are confusing because they don't really address that your furnace has two different air intake/outlets.
One is for the combustion system. Air is pulled in from somewhere (usually outside, probably the metal duct on the right), mixed with natural gas, and burned. All of the outside air and combustion products go out of the ...
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The answer is that it should have a fresh air source! This is an absolute for gas furnaces.
Some systems use the “leaks throughout the house” to get the air. The filter in the furnace is for dust to keep that out of the heat exchanger it dose nothing with the gasses that a open combustion fire box generate.
The most important thing you can do is to install ...
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Your furnace probably exhausts more air than it intakes, creating negative pressure in the house which will draw air in. You can try to control is by "encouraging" the makeup air to come in through a route where it hits a filter ASAP.
High efficiency furnaces have a (typically PVC) combustion air intake and exhaust and don't result in net air ...
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A kink in the line starves the system and it should be pumped down cut out and a 45 or 90 put in its place. If it did not matter they would not use a line that much larger On the suction side.
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You can...but do you need to?
If you have a square duct, 4x4", it has a cross section of 16 square inches.
If you squish it to 2x8", it still has a cross section of 16 square inches.
I think it's good the way it is and you aren't losing any airflow.
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The electrostatic filter will be your best option to filter the smoke, you may need to clean it every week until things clear up, putting a filter that has a finer particulate rating than your system is designed for can cause problems. Your best bet now is to turn the fan on all the time so your air is getting constantly cycled over the grid. If you haven’t ...
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Smoke particles are on the order of 1 micron. A "pleated" filter is good down to about 3-5 microns so NO, that will not filter out the smoke. Some will get through.
What you need is a HEPA filter, which usually involves adding a HEPA filter unit into your system and these are effective down to about 0.3 microns.
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Thanks folks for taking time answering my question.
I upgraded to new thermostat and now my AC cycles fine. (10-15 min on avg hot day).
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To me it sounds like a over charge but this is really hard to detect, based on your description that it works correctly except on the hottest days.
Everything works great for a month then on a day that is a few degrees hotter a high pressure bypass kicks in (high squeal). if you shut it down and let it cool down it runs ok , or if you spray the outside coils ...
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Just add fire blocking above the air return and below the receptacle.
Now they are separate spaces.
Problem solved...
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Yes code requires all devices " used in the conveyance of heat or cold air be properly sealed, insulated and protected. Such devices include, sheet metal duct, flex duct, aluminum flex duct and any and all others. The purpose is to retain heat and air with minimal loss thereby reducing energy usage. Failure to comply is punishable with a $2,000 fine and ...
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The air space is just that if the wires are within the air space in any way they need to be plenum rated power wiring even low voltage requires the plenum rating.
the only way around this Is to enclose the wiring or isolate from the environmental air source OR use plenum rated cables.
In your case if I understand it correctly the vent would be above the ...
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A compressor burnout can mean contaminated refrigerant. This can damage any equipment you put it in. I do not have enough experience to say for certain, but I would recommend against this plan.
I'm not sure if a compressor can lock up without burning up the windings, You could read up on it...
By the way, an iced tank can recover a lot of the charge; it ...
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Comment, not an answer (but it might be): [I am new and won't let me 'comment' until '50' reputation; but it DOES let me 'answer', go figure...]
Correct, it is a No-no to cross transformer supplies (at the R's). Most equipment now have one side of the 24VAC transformer physically attached to ground. This will lead to having both (or potentially 3, if AC has ...
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The HVAC technician is required by EPA regulations to recover and recycle all the R-22 that can possibly be recovered. They should know what to do and should also have the right equipment to do it.
They will use a refrigerant recovery pump that is essentially a vacuum pump that then pumps the recovered R-22 into a tank for proper disposal.
You should not ...
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I had this same problem - hot air blasting from the vents with neither heat nor cool turned on. I had to break the wire to the fan switch and insert a SPST toggle switch in that circuit. I mounted the switch in the side of the furnace case and flip it off in the spring and on in the fall. The more elegant solution would be to insert some kind of thermostat ...
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I always put my pans in out of level so the drain is the low point.
Once they are in it is possible to adjust them in some cases but can cause other problems.
Stagnant water can be an issue and a way to prevent mold from growing in the pan is to add tablets made for hvac drip pans they last a few months and don’t cost very much.
Edit examples that can ...
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I have almost the exact same setup as you (hydronic floor heat and air handler for backup heat) and mine works with one tstat just fine. So while you aren't asking for too much from "a" thermostat, you may be asking too much from "that" thermostat. I looked at the specs and didn't see anything about 2nd stage heat or aux heat, it might ...
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Consulting with an HVAC technician advised:
disconnect the left duct from the fireplace just below the first floor subfloor
disconnect the right duct just above the wye on the first floor
route the furnace + water heater duct to the left duct using 6" round B-Vent. The technician pointed out that it's key to match the existing brand (I have Ameri-Vent) ...
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This line:
is the equivalent of the "C" terminal. Get it from here:
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Yes, your whip is bad and has shorted out. Since the casing is split it needs to be replaced. Your best bet is to remove the whip from the unit and bring it to an electrical supply store for replacement. You could try a home store but most of those people don't know how to change a light bulb.
Once you remove the whip, try pulling the wires out of the casing ...
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