5

Saddle valves are terrible as actual valves. They are a cheap/easy way to tap an existing water line, but that's it. After you use them a few times, you just can't rely on the needle to cleanly seal against the punctured hole of the copper pipe, and to cleanly come back out again. In your case it also looks like there may be some galvanic corrosion on the ...


5

You've asked several questions here. Checking if it's 24V AC First of all, by far the vast majority of furnaces use 24VAC for control wiring. However, it's always better to be sure rather than make assumptions, so there are several ways to do this: Look at the spec sheet or manual for your model Look for labels on the control board, probably where the ...


4

All the humidifiers I've seen mount on the return plenum and have a duct installed that bypasses the air handler to the supply plenum.


4

Yes, it's good possibility that if you don't purposefully depressurize the lines first, you will get spray. But this is easy to do. Turn off the hot water heater. If it's electric, there is usually an off position on the knob on the front, or turn it off at the breaker panel. If it's gas, just turn the knob to pilot. Turn off the cold water supply to the ...


3

Check with your humidifier vendor. Bypass style evaporative humidifiers can usually be installed on either the warm (supply) side or the return side; either side provides essentially the same results. Some prefer installing on the return side as, if it fails in a bad way, water is not dripping into the furnace / electronics leading to freezing kids / ...


3

It's likely functioning properly. A setting of 6, probably correlates to 40% relative humidity. According to the Owners Manual Your Aprilaire Automatic Humidifier, is a high precision system that will accurately maintain the relative humidity in your home to a maximum of 45% RH and a minimum of 10% RH. If the home is at a higher relative humidity, ...


3

The terminal circled in red should be labeled HUM-H, which is the humidifier (hot) terminal. This terminal is energized to 120 V when the system is running in heating mode. The terminal circled in blue is EAC-N, which is the electronic air cleaner neutral. This terminal should be tied to the other neutral terminals, as well as the system neutral. If you ...


3

Wired in this way, this should have never worked. W2 is the terminal that the thermostat uses to activate second stage heat. It is not energized by the furnace, but by the thermostat. Also, it looks like the humidistat is not wired properly. The wires from the furnace should be in the R, and C terminals. It looks like they're in the I-, and R instead. ...


3

Propeller fans aren't really good at producing any static pressure. They can move air quietly but as soon as they see any restriction air flow stops. Your basically making a remote mount fan assist humidifier. I'm not sure if it would fit your application but if you have return air present, why not use it's draw to pull the vapour out of your box? Use ...


3

No, it is not normal. The solenoid allows water to run over the humidifier's screen. If the blower isn't running....it's a pointless waste to have water running. I assume you aren't confusing the running of a condensate pump (if you have one) with the solenoid. The pump can kick on even if the blower isn't running.


3

Put the humidifier in your garage or outside. Put a 50/50 vinegar/water solution into the tank and turn it on. Let it run until the solution is gone. This will help dissolve the deposits. If that doesn't do a sufficient job, try using something stronger like 100% vinegar or CLR. If running it with both cleaner solutions doesn't do the job, take that top lid ...


2

While not as effective as hot air if using hot rather than cold water tap with an evaporative style humidifier it does still provide humidity. My system is configured to allow humidifier to turn on blower fan separate from heat if needed when humidity is low with good results.


2

This is going to completely depend on the make and model furnace you have. If you simply wire the humidistat to the 24V transformer, the humidifier will be active only based on the humidistat. This is not ideal, since the furnace has to be moving air for the humidifier to function properly. You want the humidifier to be active when the humidistat is closed (...


2

Your furnaces controller is typically powered from a 24VAC transformer. Trace the incoming line-voltage power source - it should connect to a transformer. You can verify the output voltage is 24VAC with a multi-meter. Even if there is not a dedicated terminal, you can connect to the transformer output in parallel in order to power your humidifier. Often ...


2

I had the same issue, no water. Ran the troubleshooting test here and found that I also had a bad solenoid, it just wasn't opening to allow the incoming water to run over the metal filter. Try blowing air into it before you buy and install a new solenoid. I just removed the solenoid from the line, used my air compressor to gently blow the diaphragm open and ...


2

I can only provide anecdotal answers to questions 2 & 3. I have successfully used a few drops of concentrated food coloring, at different places I suspect for leaks in a water softener and its related valves and plumbing. I used 3 different colors if memory serves me right. We had a very slow/unnoticeable leak, apart from the puddle of course. I was ...


2

In Washington, DC you want to remove as much water as possible from the dank soup that passes for summer air. Your AC does that. You definitely do NOT want to add any more humidity in the summer, there. In a desert climate you might, but then you'd probably also be looking at a swamp cooler, which does both cooling and humidifying - in a DRY climate.


2

I think you've hit it on the nail. The humidifier takes a slow trickle of water, too slow to turn that impeller. This leaves the softener thinking no water is being used, when actually lots of water (over time) is being used. Eventually the media becomes saturated long before the softener decides to regenerate it. Ion-exchange water softeners absorb calcium ...


2

How much moisture is ok depends on the window frame material and the material that condensation may drip or seep onto. The primary issue is rot. If your storm windows are aluminum or vinyl, some condensation will not likely cause damage. Wood windows will see degradation of their finish and ultimately wood decay. The only way to completely prevent ...


2

There are a few ways to accomplish this. On the cheap DIY side, you could cut a few pieces of tight fitting cardboard (stack them and tape them together) to create a plug. I would punch a couple small holes in it and make a rope handle to pull it out. On the more convenient side, you could get a expanding plug. The link shows a 6" plug... perhaps that's the ...


2

That looks like a drain, not a supply line. The device with the wires is an EZ Trap Condensate Overflow Cut-Off Switch Here's a similar device that includes a trap brush. Here's just a trap brush.


2

You asked a basic question of how to set the humidity level on the humidistat itself. The easy answer is a table that is printed right on the face of my humidistat. It's easier to use than subtracting outside temp from inside temp. The magic of not using an indoor temp is they just assume a comfortable indoor temp (probably around 68-72F) and build a ...


2

Had to move controller (with sensor on back) farther away to where only in house air was moving through duct. In my house this was at the ceiling as the return plenum area was mixed with outside air and inside.. Sort of like a "T" shape. Top Right side of T duct brought air in from outside, left side brought air in from return vents, and the middle (body ...


2

The intake duct comes from the heated air supply -- so basically the closest place you can get it before any of your zones (to ensure it is getting air anytime the furnace is on, regardless of zone). The humidistat can go anywhere it's able to sense humidity, though many have a probe designed to stick into the airflow of a duct. If duct-mounted, the normal ...


2

I called Honeywell about the issue and they said both Latex and Vinyl were fine to use for the humidifier water feed tube.


2

What you're asking about is the latent heat of vaporization. It is 970 real BTUs per pound of water, or 2260 joules per gram. A joule is a watt-second. A BTU raises one pound of water one degree F. That means if you have an ugly bag of liquid water, 1 pound, and it is 112F temperature, and you inject 100 BTU, it is now 212F. If you inject another 970 ...


2

These are called "saddle valves" or "vampire taps". They just poke a hole in the pipe with a little pressure around the hole to seal it. They almost always leak after some time but they are quick and easy to install. The right way is to cut the pipe and install a tee fitting that then supplies a standard valve. You can use push-to-fit connectors these ...


2

I just found my answer. I've been searching for documentation for the humidifier on how to connect it to the furnace. This morning, I decided to look for documentation for the furnace to see if it mentioned anything about attaching humidifiers. I looked up the model number and found the installation instructions online. In the furnace installation ...


2

To me, the biggest issue here is that, while "the condensation would be only on the inside of the pipe", you are in fact anticipating condensation, which can lead to mold, in the pipe. And if you're blowing air through the pipe, you could be creating a mold nursery in the pipe that significantly increases the amount of mold spores in the air, and ...


2

Freeman's answer provides a good explanation of how to fix the issue so I'd like to provide an explanation of how to prevent it. Use distilled water in humidifiers if it's available to you. From https://www.healthline.com/health/can-you-drink-distilled-water: Distilled water is a type of purified water that has had both contaminants and minerals removed. ...


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