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The biggest issue you have venting into the attic is warm, moist air being blown into a somewhat closed area (aside from the grease and particles you have a filter for). If the attic space you vent into is large, and has good ventilation this shouldn't be an issue. If you have to vent into a small portion of the attic and it looks like the moist air will ...
7
The three most important things in venting a kitchen is Ductwork, Ductwork, and Ductwork.
I'm beginning to find out the hard way after replacing several builders' quality range hoods with stainless steel units that are more "sealed" and easier to clean. But in the process of setting them up, I'm seeing that ALL under-cabinet range hoods from virtually ALL ...
5
Are you going to run your kitchen hood exhaust through your HRV? I don't think that is an approved configuration because of the grease in the exhaust. Let's assume you don't for the 2nd part of this answer.
An HRV tries to recover heat from air exhausted through the HRV and use it to warm incoming air. When running your kitchen hood, no air will be ...
4
You also have to take into account the ducting run and turns, which derate the air flow. I have a 400cfm exhaust fan in my overhead uwave, and it works fine on the lowest of the 5 settings.I have 6 inch ducting that runs about 15 feet with one 90 degree turn. I also clean the ducting regularly by boiling vinegar on the stove for a few minutes per month, and ...
4
Putting the stove in the corner like you propose also gives you some nice space to work with for routing the pipe up into the ceiling / roof area or out an exerior wall.
Seems to me that re-routing the vent to the previous riser location is a total non-starter. Many hoods vent up into the small cabinet above the hood and your re-routed vent pipe is going ...
4
A 2 piece shelf is a good plan, but my scheme differs from yours from there. Yours would work, but mine's better (IMO). Instead of plywood, I would use MDF. It's dimensionally stable, easy to work, and paints up very nicely with a very smooth surface.
I would cut a circular hole to fit the duct closely so small things don't fall into the void below. ...
3
Your condo violates Code and is unsafe, and your HOA consists of idiots
First off -- your condo's existing setup, with a recirculating hood over a domestic gas appliance, is quite clearly a Code violation and a flagrant safety hazard, as IFGC 503.3 strictly prohibits the recirculation of gas appliance exhaust due to the unacceptable CO buildup that would ...
3
Sounds like this is still under warranty. Contact the manufacturer; the info should be in the user's manual.
3
Never seen one like this - BUT have installed many a hood in cabinets where the vent did not end up exiting the center of the cabinet. a combination of adjustable elbows will offset the vent if you have at least 15" height in the cabinet. As a last resort flexible aluminum duct could be used but only if you have no other options.
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I don't think there is enough information provided in your question to absolutely answer this, as well, we try and stay away from location-specific codes on this site.
As Tester101 mentioned, whether you can re-use the existing vent will depend on the distance as well as the size of the vent and the number of bends. The capacity of the hood will also play ...
3
A 48 inch gas range sounds large to me and 350 CFM may not be enough. Many people have up to 1000 CFM for smaller ranges and cooktops.
A hood will help collect the cooking fumes while the aperture of an exhaust fan is not as large.
Real kitchen hoods have grease collection mechanisms and are designed to be easy to clean. An exhaust fan will not.
Don't ...
3
I think you were wise to turn off the power to be on the safe side.
I also agree that the simplest thing would be to turn off the power to the hood, or safely disconnect the wiring to the hood, until you can get it repaired or replaced.
Turning off the breaker for the stove may or may not turn off power to the hood.
It's almost certain that turning ...
3
As many have mentioned the exhaust duct needs to be sized properly, I have seen folks spend a lot on higher cfm fans that did no better because the root problem was the home was sealed so no air could get in to efficiently allow the hood to do its job. Try opening a window and see if the hood works better. If no change the duct may be two small, if the hood ...
3
From the comments:
I haven't replaced the charcoal filters in several years
That is very possibly the key right there. Just like a clothes dryer won't work properly if the lint trap is clogged, and just like a HVAC system won't work properly if the air filter is clogged, and just like your car engine won't work properly if the air filter is clogged, your ...
answered Mar 6 '19 at 15:08
manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
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3
Use your exhaust fan. It removes grease, products of combustion and most of all moisture. Do you just never use your stove top? I suppose if all you ever do is microwave and use your oven you don't need to.
You can fill the gap with roxul insulation which is fire proof.
Typically your exhaust fan venting will lead to the exterior wall which has a wall ...
3
Check your local building codes to be 100% sure but PVC is NOT permitted by many. I'll reference one from TX but most are similar where it says:
M1503.2 Duct Material
Ducts serving range hoods shall be constructed
of galvanized steel, stainless steel or copper.
Regarding size, I believe you'll find that your local codes also require adhering to ...
2
Lack of adequate incoming air is a definite concern with any high-powered range hood or another ventilation appliance that exhausts house air to the outside. So, you're not "overthinking" it, it can be a problem.
What will happen in a situation with a high-power (700+ CFM) range hood and inadequate replenishment air, is that the hood will exhaust the air ...
2
Nobody else will ever notice it. You'll forget about it in a week, unless you let it drive you insane, which will result in everybody feeling bad, since the tile guy is unlikely to see one corner of the range hood being 2mm offset from the opposite one as remotely within the realm of a sensible customer complaint.
If this will drive you mad, I recommend ...
2
Something is super fishy here, LED's usually require a bit more than 1V especially the "lighting" ones. There are no "Bulbs" in LED's. LED's have very very long lifespans. I don't know LED's failure mode, but I don't think it's usually "getting dim" I think they usually just "go out".
I think the SMPS might actually be bad, which I'm sure is built into the ...
2
Short answer: No
There may be a way to redesign the circuitry but you are better off, in almost every case, to find replacement lights equivelant to what you are replacing.
2
The picture of your range hood indicates that it was designed to vent back into the kitchen area if desired. That is what those small louvered vents on the front are for. Most such units can be either vented through ducting in the traditional method (preferred method, IMHO) or vented through the vents on the front of the unit. They are called convertible ...
2
The old motor had two hot wires in addition to the white (neutral) so that the SPDT switch could select high or low speed. The new motor is one-speed, though you could replace the switch with a variable speed fan control if you want to adjust the speed and noise level. N.B. The link is just for illustration, that particular control might or might not be ...
2
As long as you can maintain adequate cross-sectional area through the entire path it's probably not an issue (assuming few bends downstream). There may be slightly more noise due to turbulence, but it probably won't be noticeable over the sound of the fan itself.
2
The Code requires an overhead exhaust hood to be “at least as wide as the unit and shall extend over the entire unit”. (See ICC M1504) There are exceptions (i.e.: downdraft, etc.) but must be labeled for such use.
In addition, it goes on to say the exhaust duct shall extend to the exterior with a backdraft damper and cannot be plastic.
Interesting side note: ...
1
Another option available to you is to do like I did on one kitchen remodel. I removed the range hood and carefully disassembled it removing the electrical connections, switches and light. I then sent the main metal part out to be chemically stripped. It came back looking all bare metal with most of the rust spots clean as well. In a few spots I had to do ...
1
While I'd ordinarily reach for polyurethane spray foam, that may not be the best idea on a range exhaust duct that could conceivably have a grease fire inside it at some point in time.
Stuffing the hole/gap with rockwool would be relatively fast and easy, and fire-resistant (more than fiberglass, anyway.)
Slapping a scrap of drywall or cementboard over the ...
1
Yes, that would be wise, particularly for the tile. You can drill a 1/4" or maybe 3/8" hole in the tile using a masonry bit in a non-hammering drill. Then switch the hammer mode on and pop in the 3/16" bit for the screw hole in the non tile layers.
1
Ok i posted all of this and THEN saw the model was of a different number. It is the only INCA HC unit i see on there website i think it may be the same or close enough let me know if these instructions apply. i will leave up the info and amend if i can find the exact unit, faber contact page.
After a little searching i found the documentation for . your ...
1
How do you know that the wire is on the same circuit as the lights??
I can clearly see the wall so you can open it.
If you are not opening the wall how are you installing a dedicated circuit for the new microwave and where are you putting the outlet for that?
"Can in install a box where the wires come through"
YES. You can install a "old work" box ...
1
Here are the numbers and you can see what your options are.
The numbers are as follows:
On the left: CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute, cfm)
On the right: Equivalent Diameter Round Duct Sizes
200 : 4.9
300 : 5.7
400 : 6.6
750 : 8.3
1000 : 9.1
1250 : 9.8
1500 : 10.7
1750 : 11.5
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