15

Conventional residential circuit breakers are safety devices that are not subject to adjustment. They are sized based on what the wires to the outlets can safely handle. As you surmised, if you want to draw more power to that area, you need more wiring.


5

I have the same receiver and hit this problem when initially setting it up as well. Essentially, the receiver outputs the video signal in the same format as the input, so: for HDMI inputs use the HDMI output, for component inputs use the monitor out (component) jacks, and for composite inputs use the monitor out (video) jack. For your scenario, you'll ...


5

Nail in clips just will not hold in drywall. Even over studs, the nails are typically too short to get good penetration. Nail clips and stapes can still work (barely) in drywall if they are used up high where they will not be touched. I would instead recommend and adhesive clip option. The Command Clips linked also have the advantage of coming off the ...


5

You're not showing all the pieces. What we see is a curtain rod and the center support. There are brackets for the end that the rod hooks over. Pictured is a dual curtain rod hanger bracket. The hole in the rod catches on the tang and it drops down onto the bracket. The answer to your problem might be shown in the picture, use a nice board that spans ...


5

Yes there are guidelines for how to place the speakers. E.g. here is a Dolby 5.1 placement guide. But the short answer is A, B, C, F, and E in your diagram, if you have to pick from those exact spots. Also note that some higher-end stereos have a calibration feature that will use a microphone and test tones to detect the placement of each individual speaker,...


5

I'm assuming your projector isn't terribly heavy, so... 2 1/2" gold construction screws should work fine to hold the board to the joists. I also like to use decking screws because of their strength and color. They both have small enough heads that shouldn't stick out once they are tightened. I think that larger fasteners like lag bolts just aren't ...


5

The "don't put a surge protector on a surge protector" rule is not about the surge protection, it is about overloading circuits and tripping over wires - which really doesn't apply here. I would treat the installed receptacles as "ordinary" and use a surge protector (of known quality) to add more receptacles.


4

If you're not renting (ie, you own your room or whoever you're living with doesn't mind if you make modifications to the structure), consider the following: Type X drywall: While mainly designed for fire rating, it's very heavy, very dense, and helps in blocking sound. QuietRock: Designed for soundproofing, but very expensive. Consists of a viscoelastic ...


4

This is inconvenient as we use room heaters at night in the bedrooms we use to save on electric bill. Electric resistive heat is the most expensive way to heat a home. If your central heating method is electric resistive heat then using unit heaters will not save you anything. KWh's are the same whether they come from the central heat or the unit heaters. ...


4

Googling "acoustically transparent fabric" returns a variety of companies that provide materials that advertise the characteristics you require. For example: https://fabricmate.com/fabric/acoustic-fabrics/ or https://www.audimute.com/what-is-acoustic-fabric Transparent cloth is available but putting a picture on it is another challenge. The printing ...


4

This problem is most easily addressed by surface mount wireway. Rather than run exposed cables, you attach a fairly innocuous plastic or metal rectangular cross section wireway/duct/conduit that carries the cables across the ceiling and/or wall in a less obtrusive way than putting them out in the open, but which does not require major surgery to the building ...


4

On some speakers the grill part, not the bezel or frame of the grill assembly, but the actual grill with the small holes in it is pressed into the bezel/frame. You take a tool with a point small enough to fit in the holes, or even a very small screwdriver, and you gently pry the grill up and out of the bezel/frame. You want to try and get a hold of the side ...


3

Is there a tiny bit of space between the bracket and the tv? If so I'd use a hacksaw to cut through the screw and remove the bracket. If space is really tight, try removing the blade and using it with your hands. After that, you'll have to see what you are working with. If you are lucky, maybe you can get some epoxy or glue around the bolt inside of the ...


3

Save your money and buy the cheap cables. They're the same. The "premium cable" game is nothing more than a big scam.


3

Something is sensitive to fluctuations in voltage. My first guess would be the receiver. Instead of buying a new projector or receiver, buy a power conditioner. This will ensure that your cable box, receiver and projector all receive a constant voltage.


3

I just setup a 5.1 system and obsessed a LOT about this. The room has 8 foot ceilings but has 4 foot knee walls on two sides (with a 45 degree run of sheet rock up to the ceiling). Placement in the corners was the "proper" location for speaker separation as well as aesthetics (and to keep kids from bumping into them). However, I was worried if I put the ...


3

Although all those things are good, and in fact I always do the first three on your list, the important thing is not actually installing them, but ensuring you run cable ducts. If you have ducting, then you future proof the apartment - need another cable? just run it through. So plan as follows: Decide where you will need Ethernet, power and audio wall ...


3

Because you only hook up what you have to, to avoid signal loss. If you're serious about getting HD to all your jacks, you should probably look into getting a powered splitter. Otherwise, you just want a small passive splitter in a good MHz range. Over 2k was bare minimum last time I checked. I have internet cable and I want it as clean as possible, so I ...


3

Unless you get metal lined material or mirrored glass doors the radio won't have an issue. And to be honest even if you did it would probably still work fine by going through the wood or whatever the sides of the shelves are made of unless they are solid metal. Any solid fabric is going to block the IR. You could potentially go with a fairly lose weave ...


3

Visible-light blocking IR-passing "black" plastic (plexiglas, etc) is very common, found in almost all IR receivers. Finding a sheet of it might be a bit more work (and let's not make this a shopping question, which would be off-topic - go hunting for yourself), but hardly impossible. Infrared transmitting (IRT) plastic seems to be one good search term. ...


3

If you can't increase the wattage available in the rooms (which requires running more circuits as others explain), apply the heat more tactically. Heated blankets or mattress pads can provide more comfort for less wattage than room heaters.


3

OTA DTV antenna cable is commonly RG6 (replaced RG59). This is a 75 ohm coaxial cable with an F or BNC termination (probably F). The better quality component video cables use 3 separate RG6 cables with RCA connectors at the end. They are simply attached together in a bundle. My original answer assumed this is what you had. With the picture you've added it ...


3

I would just install 14 gauge wire, it will be more than adequate at 30 feet. Look for a reputable brand that's made for audio and rated CL2 for in-wall installation. Any decent speaker wire will be made with fine strands and sufficient purity for your surround system. You can spend a lot more on speaker wire, but you won't hear any difference.


3

Yes, flip the meter to "AC". You should detect a fluctuating AC voltage when sound plays. Some amplifiers also put a DC bias on speaker circuits, you can check for that too by flipping the meter to "DC".


3

I tried that exact same thing back in my younger years and found out that the signals definitely back fed into each other and weakened the signal going to the subwoofer. Whether or not it would have burned out the equipment, I don't know because I immediately went back to the A/B switches I originally had used. The setups today are not made as well as the ...


2

Ceiling Ethernet drops for wireless access points (POE) RG6 Coax for CATV Wiring for alarm systems Wiring for Security cameras (sometimes coax, sometimes Ethernet, etc.) Low voltage wiring for lighting controls? Central Vac


2

I saw a relevant thing at hackaday.com You can paint a large piece of hardboard and use that to cover the wall. http://makeprojects.com/Project/Glass-Bead-Projection-Screen/685/1


2

The current induced in the speaker wire will not be noticed. If it were an input cable it would be different. Speakers wires are after the amplifier so the interference will not get amplified. The only issue is being sure the insulation on the speaker wire is rated for the higher voltage in the AC line.


2

Cast Iron is cheap to make in a mold, often bolted together if made in sections and if so, may leak air at the seams, has reasonable fire resistance, can eventually crack from thermal cycling. Often made to look "retro". Steel is easy to make air-tight, requires metal brakes to fold the steel plate into shape, and the seams need to be welded. The firebox ...


2

This seems to be a design and/or shopping question, that is completely dependent on personal preference. You could trim the hole out with wood, some type of metal or plastic flange, some type of port hole from a ship (if you're going for a nautical theme), etc. The options are only limited by your imagination.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible