55

Not the answer you are looking for, but: Loud Alarms are What You Really NEED Assuming that the premise is a sound one, that people need to be warned of unexpected/unauthorized entrance to the pool area, a loud alarm is the right answer, not an electronic notification. A few examples: It is all too easy to ignore texts/notifications/etc. "If my boss/...


46

Ask your insurer and defense lawyer Lawyering on whether this rule is really a mandate is probably a waste of time. It's a "best practice" and one easily implemented. Which will create civil and criminal liability for you if you don't implement it. "I'm willing to lump the risk", does your insurance company also agree to lump the risk? I bet they don'...


20

Based on your link, I'm assuming you live in Florida. The relevant statutes are 515.29 Residential swimming pool barrier requirements and 515.27 Residential swimming pool safety feature options; penalties. 515.27 list a few options to secure a pool: "In order to pass final inspection and receive a certificate of completion, a residential swimming pool ...


18

It looks a lot like a GoControl W015Z-1 Z-wave smart receptacle. See here


8

Two thoughts from this peanut in the gallery: Make sure whatever timer you have is designed to handle the load being pulled by the refrigerator. I'm pretty sure this is one of the top power users in the house, behind any heating systems (dryer, oven, electric heaters) and probably behind a central AC system. Using a cheap timer designed for a lamp would ...


8

Short answer, you definitely want the patch panel, especially if you ran shielded cable. (If you did not run shielded cable, you probably don't want a shielded patch panel.) Male terminations are less reliable than punchdown connections. They tend to create marginal / intermittent failures in many cases, which can be particularly hard to track down. To ...


7

I have included two images. The first identifies the wires in your current switch and the second image identifies where to put said wires. In case your wondering the "S" terminals are for slave units


7

Couple of benefits of patch panels. They make the install neater. You could have the entire bundle of cables going to each room just terminated and hanging lose until it is needed. Or you can terminate them into a panel where they are tucked away. Also labeling the bundle of cables is problematic. Labels fall off and then you spend 10 minutes trying to ...


6

Install a lock on the panel, or main shutoff. Then only give keys/combination, to those family members that pay their share. Check with your local government before installing the lock, as it may not be legal in some jurisdictions. Search for a circuit breaker lockout. A lockout is a device that easily attaches to a breaker, and prevents the breaker from ...


6

How about a light switch with a motion sensor? They make ones that are occupancy detectors (detecting motion and then turning on), and vacancy sensors (detecting absence of motion and then turning off). They'll also have a button which can manually toggle the light on or off, and you can set the sensitivity and how long an absence is required before the ...


6

A simplification of @spicetraders answer: Pump up switch You can do this with a "pump up float switch", which operates at line voltage and thus avoids the need for a relay, separate power supply, etc. These cost tens of dollars. These often have a plug on the end so they can control a plug-in pump directly (be sure to get one with the appropriate plug ...


5

Your switch requires a dedicated neutral so that the switches internal electronics can operate independently of the fixture it is connected to. Your configuration is such that the line (source of power) comes into the ceiling box first instead of where the switch is located. In order for this to work with the line still coming into the ceiling, there would ...


5

There are many ways to do what you want.. but none of them seem very easy as networking remains quite a complex thing to use, wired or wireless. Obviously you want to just plug in the power and forget about it. Using the Rasberry PI is most probably a very good idea, Its cheaper version (Model A) about £20, it can run Linux, you can use a WiFi dongle with ...


5

If you can run wiring to the rooms easily, I'd recommend going with the centralized stack-of-amplifiers approach. It's very cheap, easy to set up, probably has the best sound quality, and is the most reliable. IR repeaters Start by placing all the stereo receivers in a centralized location (I picked the laundry room). Then, install an IR receiver ...


5

This heavily depends on your HA supervisor, for example with OpenHAB this can be done with the NetworkHealth binding : https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Network-Health-Binding. The key here is to know your devices IP Address and monitor it. Item in Openhab format: Switch Phone_WIFI "Phone 1" (Status, Network) { nh="192.168.1.101" } Switch ...


5

As per Z-Wave specification, no. A Z-Wave node (device) can only be paired to one hub (the designated 'primary' controller). 'Secondary' controllers added to the primary controller will lose their z-wave netword/added nodes and just act as a relay remote control. I don't believe adding the Wink Hub as a secondary controller is the option you're looking for ...


5

The wooden framed double hung sash design dates from a time when no elderly person was ever left alone long enough to open or close a window. Families were large and any oldster who wanted a window operated would simply whack the nearest youngster with a cane and croak out the appropriate orders. Today the demographic age curve is quite different and there ...


5

The official statement is that if you have no calor BT app that is currently paired, you are lost and should return the device to the dealer as broken. However, there is a way out - the following steps are written for a Linux environment but probably can be adapted to other OSes: Install a current (!) VirtualBox and VirtualBox Extension Pack for USB ...


5

These are really old HAI switches (from before Leviton bought them) which use the ALC protocol over separate signaling wires. I finally found someone who could tell me that the original switches were put in around 2005, so I used The Wayback Machine to look at HAI's website as it appeared at that time. From there, I found pictures that match these switches ...


5

No, they don't generally have such an outlet. Perhaps you are looking for an Automatic Washing Machine Shutoff Valve? These devices sense when the washing machine is using electricity and open the water supply valves. Once the machine stops using electricity (i.e., the cycle is done) then the valves shut. Many models also include additional features such as ...


4

If other family members are living in the house, why are you responsible for the utilities. Give them fair warning to put the power in their name by X date and issue a shut down order to the company for that date. If they want power, they can pay for it.


4

There's no definitive resource on the topic or at least I could not find one (and I spent couple of months heavily involved in HA during one of my projects). Get started with the Wikipedia article on HA. This gives you overview of what is what and gives you a good starting point. Then proceed to familiarise yourself with technology out there like X10, UPB, ...


4

Modern fridges only use $70 a year. So 2 hours a day, that a fridge is not opened, is less than penny a day.


4

Note: this answer is for pressurized plumbing of two hot water tanks. Rereading the question I'm pretty sure it's an incorrect assumption so I'm only leaving it here in case it helps someone with this problem. The typical way to do this is to run the two tanks in serial instead of parallel. You would connect the output of one tank to the input of the other. ...


4

If the picture included with your question is what your current setup looks like, you don't have the neutral (white) wire that the installation instructions are expecting. Wire your new switch so that your real black wire (the hot to your light) is connected to the "load" terminal of the switch. Connect your "coded black" wire to the line/hot terminal of ...


4

I never implemented something like this but I did implement something similar with other uses. I also asked a question here for automating parts of the home based on user that entered. It can be implemented using OpenHab with the NetworkHealth binding : https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Network-Health-Binding. There is no need to issue different ...


4

My own opinion on the pros and cons of a patch panel: Pros: Cleaner look Easier to locate a specific room's connection Easier to deal with non-connected rooms (think of a 5 port switch in a 10 room home with only needing to connect 3 of those rooms) Cons: Extra piece of equipment to install and clutter a tight networking space Extra possible failure ...


4

Personally, I find little use or benefit to a patch panel in a home install. If using the correct connectors (ones rated for solid wires, or more typically for both solid and stranded wires, rather than the ones rated only for stranded wires) plug connections are quick and easy, and there's two fewer places to fail (the patch panel jack and the patch panel ...


4

Yes, you have a couple different options in today's market. The cheapest would be a plug in timer that has to be manually set. As long as your schedule stays consistent, then this is a good option as it's well rounded and very useful. They make both ones with the push dials (as shown below) and ones with electronic displays, both are still relatively cheap. ...


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