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3

Get a piece of wood large enough to cover the hole, attach that to the wall, then attach the thermostat to the wood. Since the edges will be visible, use solid wood, not plywood. 1/2" thick should be plenty strong. Quick, easy, cheap, and you won't have to deal with patching the drywall.


3

My cheap solution for small patchups, is to use a 6 or 7 inch piece of a paint stirrer stick. Smear it with wood glue or construction adhesive and center it on your hole, inside the drywall, aimed where you might want to drive your screws. A screw in the middle can be a handle. You'll have to keep it place while it dries. If you don't care about more holes,...


0

No problem, put the holes near or slightly above the vertical center. The horizontal center carries very little load; known as the "neutral" axis. And stresses are low for that short span with 2 X 10 , unless you have a swimming pool above it.


1

While your local building codes may vary somewhat, please refer to this IBC document section on "Notching and Boring" of load bearing members: Notching and Boring Standards According to section R502.8.1, you can bore a hole up to 1/3 the width of the member as long as it is not closer than 2" to either edge of the member. Also note that you ...


-2

Yes you are fine. A hole can be up to 1/3 of the width meaning you are good for about 3". I would try to center them and space them out if you go the full 2". Also whenever I drill larger holes in joists I like to add a crosser right in the area going perpendicular from that joist to the next. Yes this does not help with the direct load but ...


1

Option one - toss enough mortar or hydrualic cement in the hole to fill up the core. Tedious, and annoying, but it works. However, option 2 also works and takes a lot less material. Cut 4 strips of wire mesh or stiff screen about as wide as the widest part of the hole but longer than the hole. Tie long wires to the middle of these in pairs, arranged so that ...


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