Go to the local home center and get some of the (free?) laminate counter top samples in the kitchen cabinet section, they are about 3x5 inches. I then cut them to the same size as the hinge plate. Remove the hinge, place it on the sample and trace around it, it does not need to perfect but it should not be bigger then the hinge. I cut them with tin ...
Cut a plug of wood to the height and width of the two mortises. Use pine and cut the depth so the plug stands slightly proud when set in the mortises. You want the mortises to be a single mortise so chisel out any partition.
Cut the mortise to fit the plug. With a utility knife define the shape of the plug on the jamb. Cut away any parts that obstruct it's ...
Well, I have used two solutions in this situation:
open up the holes in the metal hinge as you suggest - quick and easy,
I have, with time available and planning, filled the larger holes in the wood with pegs or matchsticks that are glued in. Once dry re-drill the pilot holes and works well.
Any of you know if this is normal?
I would say not normal.
Looking closely at the photos i would say that if the manufacturer had wanted the screws to be at an angle then they would have set the countersinks in the brackets at that specified angle so the heads did not stick out proud of the bracket, They did not. The countersinks are straight so therefore ...
As isherwood noted in a comment, you need to remove the hinge pins. To get them out, it's likely that you'll also need to loosen the set screw.
Loosen the set screw by backing it off a turn or two. There shouldn't be any need to fully remove it, but if you do, that's not the end of the world, just put it back in enough to keep it from falling out.
As requested : Is the black plastic thing a block that the screws are in? You may be able to loosen all of them (not just 1 hinge) slide the door up and tighten them. Strut clamps work this way it would be that or adding a new shim under each pin as those may have worn.
Try tightening attachment of hinge to door and jamb.
If the attachment gets loose the door can sag. It looks like you are missing a screw on the jamb side; center hole is empty. I cannot imagine anyone would throw out a funky screw like this so maybe the escapee is still nearby in a drawer.
You should be able to tighten these with a hex wrench. It might ...
Hinges all used to have square corners, the rounded corners are to allow machines to cut the recess for the hinge more easily. the corners are not structural.
If you are confident using a chisel replacing your rounded hinges with square ones may be another option.
We are a shower hinge producer in china. From this picture, I think the problem is the interior screws were installed without a thread locker like Loctite or other glues. So after a long time, the screws loosen and come out. With all our wall to glass hinges, the interior screws are installed with a thread locker.
It's installed incorrectly.
This happens when the hinge side and latch side are not both truly vertical. In this case, the top of the hinged side is installed too far towards the interior. On closing the door, it will first contact the bottom of the latch side which then prevents the top of the latch side from closing fully
Your installer should fix this, it ...
I would consider two threaded rods in the back two corners that are rotated together and can drive up the lid.
They probaly need to be about 1/2” diameter as the lid length will cause a bending moment on the rods, unless you have extra sliding rods as well.
For initial testing a car wiper motor may be sufficiently slow - but that is easy to adjust when using ...
I haven't worked on vintage metal casement windows but have some experience restoring vintage wood double hung windows.
First, don't replace the entire window unit, I'm sure this window can be repaired for much less. Did you contact a company that sells new replacement windows? I would avoid those companies and try to find a company that can re-glaze the ...
I did a house a few years ago that I replace 24 doors total (including sliding doubles for closets in 5 bedrooms). So 14 doors that I had to chisel out hinge sets.
So here is what you need to think about:
Can I get doors in the correct width? Cutting a half inch out on the hinge side will be fine. Once you get more than that there are issues (tell you ...
Probably struck with paint and/or a very tight fit.
Would place screwdriver or similar object in a hole and wedge underneath, and tap screwdriver lightly with hammer a couple of times.
Turn screwdriver in another direction(N,S,E,W) and repeat. Light taps should loosen it after a few times.
Threaded insert was the term I was looking for. I didn't find an exact replacement with the plastic connector but I'm hopeful one of the generic replacements will do the trick. Thanks to @Aloysius Defenestrate
Magnetic door holders "stay there until you really push on it." The commercial electromagnetic style have a range of holding forces from "strong" to "mount that thing on a wall stud; you'll rip it clean off if it's only mounted to the drywall!" (These are commonly used for releasing fire control doors by a fire alarm system.) ...
There are door closers that control the last 4-5”. That is to say, they allow the door to swing freely for opening, etc., but when closing they slow the door to a very slow swing.
The closers are expensive, but they’ll do the trick. Try Emtek.com They have a terrible website, but great customer service. Give them a call.
You will most likely not find an exact replacement for those hinges. The face frame and door looks like they even have cutouts to allow that hinge to fit and work the way it is intended. There are hinges that will work in its place, but the thing you do not have the info o is what the "overlay" is. This is the dimension that the door overlaps the ...
I think that's a partial wrap overlay hinge. Overlay means the door sits on the front of the faceframe when closed. Partial wrap means the cabinet side of the hinge wraps along the edge of the faceframe where it is attached. There are more components in the hinge though - maybe it's self-closing?
There are two screws that are NOT for fastening, but for adjustment. They are on top of the hinge, and are visible even after assembly. The hinge clicks into its bracket. These screws are for alignment of the door.
And there are other screws for fastening. They are on the hinge bracket, and screw into the wood. These are not visible after assembly.
Can you ...
Thanks for all the fantastic effort attempting to identify the photographed fitting!
I found that it's a bolt assembly, like those used in flat pack furniture. The holes at 90 deg are actually four, could only see two initially. They're in the bolt head and the metal box acts as a retention plate.
If anyone is interested I can post an image of the bolt ...
Looks like you should be able to pry down this circular plate and the door will be released.
Shove a screwdriver in there or a spackle knife. You'll want to support the door as upright as possible when doing this because the lateral force on the pin is immense.
How old is the house? If a newer home, uneven shrinkage in the floor framing may be the culprit. It seem rather than rehanging the door it may be best just to grind the hole in the strike lower rather than having a notch show where the strike is lowered. If you don't like the gap at the top, then resetting the jamb is the way to go, other than raising the ...
Assume: The two halves of the door are of equal length and weight. (L and W)
Let Theta be the angle between vertical, and the upper portion, measured from the opening. Thus, when the door is closed, theta is 0, and when open all the way (impossible in real life) theta is 90
Constraint: The door will form an isosceles triangle at all times when closing. (two ...
Try taking the hinge to a home store like Home Depot or Lowe's. I just replaced a number of similar hinges and they have a huge selection. You'll need to buy the entire hinge but they are not expensive.