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2

Since the temperature is controlled by the thermostat, this product will not cause any temperature increase at all. This product is a window insulation kit and, if properly installed, should reduce heat (not temperature) loss through the window. The net result should be a reduction in energy cost through the window. The amount of heat loss prevented is ...


1

I've done this successfully with a wood stove to move heat from one room to another. Since heat rises you'll ideally want to move the heat from the wall near the ceiling above the wood stove and run it through ductwork to the lower floor releasing it at floor level away from the stairwell. There are some excellent in-line quiet fans that would work well for ...


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Look for a check valve (flow check) in the upstairs zone piping, perhaps on the return line. See google images. Flow checks sometimes get stuck from corrosion or sediment if they go several months with no flow. You might get it working by calling for heat on that zone, then when the pump starts up, give the flow check a few sharp raps with a non-marring ...


3

Problem solved. It was the ignitor connector. It was probably not making a good contact. After I put back the ignitor, it all worked again. I will replace the connector for some temperature rated wire nuts.


3

Since you mention "oil heat" and "hot water tank", it sounds like this is an oil burning boiler, feeding hot water through radiators to the various rooms, with each zone controlled separately somehow. Also not clear whether this is "always been this way" or "new problem". If new problem: Since the thermostat in the ...


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I worked on a hydronic system once; it had a boiler that only went down to 175 F or so. The potable side of the system had a failed thermostatic mixing valve so the client had it set too low to do its other jobs efficiently (side walk melting, radiators, floor heat, etc.). Setting it to ~140 F may not be an option, and anything less than that is legionnairic....


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The problem when burners are not all lighting is usually rust scale and or soot. Soot is more common with fuel oil and rust scale is more common with propane and natural gas. I usually shut off the gas and igniter if electronic that little spark actually bites a little if you have it in your hand and it starts trying to light. The burners usually lift out in ...


4

First and foremost, check with your health office about the impact of kettle temperature on legionella pneumophilia and other bacteria growth, which vary by region. The water misadventures in Flint, Michigan revealed a heretofore little-understood problem: Too low a water heater (kettle) temperature turns it into a breeding ground for bacteria. The ...


5

If your water heater heats to a higher temperature than you have set it to, then the water heater is broken. The thermostat could have fallen out of position, become disconnected, or otherwise broken. The thermostat itself should be decently cheap. If it is not working properly and it is not under warranty, then you can do no damage because a broken thing ...


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I'd venture to guess that turning on the basement heat pump at 300+% efficiency would beat running electric resistance heat at 100% efficiency, and requires no additional install expense.


2

I had all sorts of trouble with TRV valves closing too soon or seeming never to open, no matter what temperature they were set at. After spending most of a day bleeding and adjusting valves I could not solve the problem. After thinking about it, I looked elsewhere in the system and it turned out to be that the boiler on my system had been set by the ...


1

It's the one with all the green (teal) wires plugged onto it, I think you've labeled it "C" already.


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Considering all you've said, especially that none of your radiators have any control valves, I recommend that you install a thermostatic valve on every radiator move the two thermostats to the coldest room in each zone also install a shutoff valve on the other side of every radiator to make it easier to service. This isn't critical but if you'll be doing ...


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So, the updated diagram not only changes the original cold "rad4" to "rad5" but reveals that rad5 is tacked on with ~12 feet of 1/2" pipe each way. That takes out the option of fixing the flow by making the return be from the end of the cold radiator, since it's got that long small pipe section (which is also a direct cause of it ...


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Do you have any valves at your radiators at all? (If you do not have valves, then not much can be done). Start by closing/partially closing the valves on radiators 1-3 and making sure the valve on 4 is open. Be careful, as old valves may sprout a leak when moved (they don't like being disturbed) Wait a bit and verify the radiator 4 is warm now. Go to second ...


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Rads 1, 2 and 3 should have a flow valve as well as an isolating valve fitted, one each side of the radiator. Some systems have one of the radiators to be uncontrolled as a heat dump in case the control system / boiler has an issue, this was often the bathroom radiator. The presence of both valves allows 1 radiator to be taken out of service while the others ...


0

The water at the last radiator is cold because all the heat has been extracted by the efficiency of the other radiators up the line. They radiate too well. If you can box in the nearest (hottest) radiators, more hot water will pass along to the next ones.


2

Get a couple of HOMELEC2PALAs and fit those to the heater breakers in the panel Under NEC 424.19(B)(2), for a heater without its own (supplementary) overcurrent protection and no motors upward of ⅛ hp in it, you can use the branch-circuit disconnect as the required all-pole disconnecting means provided it's either in sight of the heater or lockable in the ...


3

Just say "no" to giant toasters. Resistance electric heat, whether buried inside an air handler, installed in baseboards in every room, or in a small portable heater, is really just a giant toaster, which makes it generally very expensive to run. For an actual toaster, that's not a problem - you use it for 5 minutes a day. A portable supplemental ...


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