28
That is called Paver Edging. It is used to keep the pavers tight or to separate one section from the other. It's usually covered to the point that you only see a small strip of it. However, it looks like the installer didn't quite finish the job. I would probably do as you suggested and bury the edging deeper. You could also take up those few bricks that are ...
17
They make a variety of gates for just this kind of thing. They typically have 3 segments with adjustable angles.
For example at Amazon:
That middle segment is the normal gate, but the whole thing can swing/fold if needed.
16
You asked for optimal: Follow a few thousand years of practical experience and put in a tension brace (lower outside corner to top hinge-side corner - opposite what you are going for, which is a compression brace) Go with the past few hundred years and make it a turnbuckle.
The best form of compression brace "in plane" is none of the above, and has a point ...
15
One option would be to drill holes through the post to allow you to use the lock that you have (or perhaps a slightly longer lock).
11
It would be fairly easy to retrofit a proper locking latch.
Product link (for reference only)
Here's one that locks from either side. You'd need to grind off the old one, drill for the new one, paint, and mount the new one.
11
I would get two Evenflo wooden baby gates. I suggest this model for its proven, simple design and wooden construction.
Then do this:
Shorten the second gate
Separate the mounted and sliding panels of one gate assembly. You can probably just bend the slide brackets as you won't be reusing them. Set the sliding panel aside, as you won't reuse that either.
...
8
There are cable locks that have a plain end to the cable that might fit through.
You might have to file the hole a little bigger in the lock mechanism to allow the end of the cable to angle through.
There are also shorter cable locks, but they tend to have a beefier cable end that is captive within the locking mechanism.
Images and links are for ...
7
I would put a false wall or barrier as shown in red for the gate to latch to, see image.
6
If the hinges are on the same vertical line, then (as noted by @DA01) the hinge should stay wherever you leave it (absent wind, etc). If the hinges aren't vertically aligned, then the gate will want to swing towards a specific point. You can use this to solve your problem.
Imagine that the gate is swinging on a rod, and can go 360° around the rod. If ...
6
This feels like an XY problem - you imagine a squeak would work, so you ask about how to make a squeak. Instead, ask "how to alert a blind person when someone opens the gate"
I'd go with an Infrared interrupter beam right behind the gate, like a shop. Have it wired to a chime inside, and do lube the gate properly to help it last longer.
If you ...
5
If you were my client and I was taking money for your project, I'd put wood on a metal substructure, have wheels on the ends, and make sure the posts were extremely well stuck in the ground. (You might be able to skimp a little on the post as long as the wheels are in contact with the ground at all points in the arc, but the other two points would be non-...
answered Jun 15 '16 at 20:55
Aloysius Defenestrate
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5
Maybe you can find an anvil padlock that would fit?
5
if you could get it tight enough, you could attach the lock in other ways to keep the latch from lifting. did you try any of these configurations?
5
"How can I make it solid?"
Something isn't right in your post. An 80lb sack mixes up 2/3 cubic foot.
Spec sheet: https://www.quikrete.com/PDFs/DATA_SHEET-Fast%20Setting%20Concrete%20Mix%201004-50.pdf
The volume of your 2' deep, 30" dia hole, minus the 9" post volume, is 9 cubic feet.
Here is the volume calculation
Short answer is at 2' deep it'll never ...
5
The hinge is damaged, it's bent. You should either bend it straight or get a new one. The hinge has three holes for screws your only using two of them. That's putting extra stress on the two that you are using which is probaly why they pulled out. Hard to tell from the picture how bad the wood is split. I would not try to add any wood, if anything perhaps ...
5
In order to build a gate properly you need the Z/reverse Z frame and build everything around that.
How to design your fence properly
The key points are the intersections where the 45° lumber meets the horizontal and vertical lumber. You need good solid joints there. The rest is just decorations. For gates that wide I'd still put wheels on just because it'...
4
Once you have corrected your axis of rotation it should be obvious that the idea to lengthen the "clip" will not change anything with regard to the force required to raise the flap. Actually it could make things worse if the longer clip added more weight to the whole assembly.
The force needed to raise the flap is measured in some units like foot-pounds (ft-...
4
Use waterproof glue, make the joint tight-fitting, and leave the screws on the shelf. A lap joint is one of the strongest of all the glued wood joints, and a well-fitted glued lap joint will be at least as strong without the screws as with them.
But... there's a condition. How wide are the two planks forming that joint? And which wood is being used? I ask ...
4
Use a chainlink "terminal post" the appropriate diameter and length and attach it to the existing posts using a zip-tie or ideally a chainlink "brace band." I got the idea from watching this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GulJ53J-nYs
4
If you don't care about how it looks, a piece of plywood or other rigid material mounted to the gate would bridge the gap. You could attach it to the vertical part of the gate using a variety of types of u-bolts/brackets.
Otherwise the easiest thing is to replace the gate with a wider one. Another alternative is to move the posts to reduce the gap on the ...
4
Your particular brand, SnapEdge is simply too high.
You can find their various installation guides PDFs on the web-site.
But the clearest explanation comes from one of their drawings:
You need to remove the edge, and install it down below the gravel it's next to.
Or you can switch to another product where the edges to "under" the pavers; and are ...
4
What about a custom L-shaped gate that would fit around the contour of the top stair, mounted on the corner near the top stair on the right side of your diagram? It would need a lot of space to swing open on the upstairs landing, and lock to the wall on the left side of your diagram.
There are also configurable gates with joints that allow some of this ...
4
I believe that you are over thinking the need to have the gate be somehow "even". You should just hinge the gate at the post that is on the side nearest the street. Then just simply arrange the gate to swing up against the deck side of the closer post. The diagram below shows how it is done. The typical hinge usage for this type of application is ...
3
No. Those holders give virtually no torsional support. Your gate will tear it right down. Plan on robust posts in a substantial concrete footing to carry that torque load.
Either that and do what I did and run some snow fence on a pair of 1/4" vinyl-coated cable. The gate won't contain a toddler, and the snow fence wouldn't either, but it gives a visual ...
3
The simplest solution I can think of depends upon whether the upper hinge point is threaded or not. If it is threaded, then get a cheater bar, a piece of pipe big enough to fit around the end of the hinge, and give the hinge a twist until the gate no longer sags. If it is a pounded in hinge, get a big hammer.
If that doesn't work, replace the upper hinge ...
3
To me, it looks like you have a very old Zinc coated gate, which has many areas which have been touched up with a grey paint (I may be completely wrong)..
Typically the galvanization is done when the clean metal fence is dipped into molten zinc and effectively coated in a corrosive resistant zinc shell. if you would like to return the fence to original ...
3
Could you attach a board to the wall, that spans the distance between the stud, and your ideal hinge location for the baby gate? For an example of what I'm talking about-- as well as plans for a cool parallelogram baby gate-- see the following: http://woodgears.ca/home/baby_gate.html (Note I am not talking about the gate at the top of the stairs, that ...
3
Your first approach of random color spots would work, but as you suggest, it might not look pleasing to your eyes. The other suggestion you have about painting a nicer yard on it is "spot on."
Anything you do to the mesh to break up the pattern currently in place will serve to hide that which shows through the mesh. Abstracts and landscapes and other images ...
3
Mix up some anchoring cement and pour it into the gap you created when you got impatient. You could probably also use epoxy. Brace the post if it's breezy and let it alone for a day.
If the gap is too thin to get anything into, try some treated wood shims.
3
Can't upvote or comment at @alephzero's comment... but i'd say he's absolutely right: it was installed upside down. The part that is shown should be down in the dirt to keep a grip and not let the edging move with the seasons (frost heave or heavy rain runoff). The top surface won't be a collection of trip hazards as shown here.
Pull the spikes, turn it ...
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