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There are multiple purposes to an external vent for a cooking appliance. I would focus with the housing provider/landlord on the issue of odors and grease permeating the unit, and moisture from boiling and burning activities and the affect on the unit (doubly so the particle board cabinet). No, not all gas appliances are vented. It's a good idea to, but ...


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That is the most absurd set up I've ever seen and Yes it is dangerous. The toxins are built up accumulatively however the end result could also be overnight depending on the way stove is running. Chances are with a landlord allowing a set up like that I wouldn't trust it. Your family is to important. Write her/him an immediate letter and include the housing ...


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My daughter had the same problem and it randomly started blowing cold air. It was same brand I double wide suppose to be nonfunctioning but surprise. Thermostat was nailed to wall so I lossened it and was able to move the dial back and forth and it went off. I believe it is set to kick on at a predetermined temperature but it is mafunctioning.


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Simple fix. Change out the electrical switch on the wall that turns the gas fireplace on. They go bad as the voltage they receive is so small from the fireplace. Fixed ours


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You must consult the manual for the insert you are planning to use, it will specify the required clearances to combustibles.


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It depends on the gas insert. Many gas inserts are listed for contact so if it is your contractor would be correct. I don’t think the contractor would try and cheep out on this because a fire would be on his bond if he did not do it properly.


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The brass nut piece is in fact your gas shutoff valve. You would have to turn it clockwise to turn off the gas. The engraved line shows the position of the valve: inline with the pipe, the valve is open; perpendicular to the pipe, the valve id closed. Try turning it with more force. Good luck


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Yes, that appears to be a valve. Note that it can only turn 90 degrees (clockwise as it sits), constrained by the lugs on the side. The line indicates gas flow (in line with the pipe as pictured open, crossways to the pipe closed.) If it requires excessive force to operate, better to have gas shut off upstream and replace it, rather than risk breaking it. ...


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The ideal installation would have ducting below the cabinet base to bring the forced air out the front rather than pressurizing the entire space below the cabinet base. I expect very few contractors actually do this. You wouldn't have noticed the leakage going up around into and through the adjacent cabinets; these cutouts only highlight the problem. ...


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The switch linked in the question (Dwyer model V6EPB-B-S-1-B) won't work because its actuation requirements are too high. From its data sheet, actuation-deactuation flow rates for air in SCFM for the 1/2" pipe size valve are 6.50/5.00. (I'm presuming that they'll be similar for a non-air gas, ie fuel gas.) An article at hunker.com asserts that "In most ...


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Galvanic corrosion is a worry only if there is complete circuit. With water pipes, cold water running through the line can make the wood conductive, so you use copper tape with copper lines. Gaslines in the house aren't going to be damp. If you are worried about it, Insulate it. Put two turns of duct tape around the pipe whereever you're going to put a ...


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This is generally more of a commercial requirement/product. I am not 100% sure of the details, but in my synagogue's kitchen there is a switch that needs to be turned on to turn on the fans in order to be able to use the gas stove - i.e., without that switch on, you can't turn on the gas. But that doesn't really help you because if you could install such a ...


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Based on the wiki article galvanic corrosion, I would not use copper with iron pipe: Statue of Liberty Galvanic corrosion in the Statue of Liberty Regular maintenance checks discovered that the Statue of Liberty suffered from galvanic corrosion A spectacular example of galvanic corrosion occurred in the Statue of Liberty when regular maintenance ...


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