10

Dishwashers can be either hardwired, or cord-and-plug connected. Check the owners manual of the unit you have, but in most cases the decision is left to the installer. From a random Maytag Dishwasher Installation Guide (PDF) In newer homes you'll commonly find a 125V NEMA 5-15R receptacle supplied by a 20 ampere circuit, used to supply a dishwasher and ...


10

There are no requirements in National Electrical Code (NEC) that a residential disposal must be GFCI protected. However, there may be requirements in the installation instructions, which would make GFCI protection required. 210.8(A) requires receptacles serving the kitchen countertop to be GFCI protected. It also requires GFCI protection for receptacles ...


10

Usually there is a switch before the disposal. You push a button, or flip a switch to turn on the disposal. Did you turn the switch on? If this is the case, then this was not the best option for this installation. As well as the undercounter heater may require a dedicated circuit.


9

The small bowl is typically called a veggie bowl. The idea is that you use the large sink for cleaning dishes or soaking and then the other sink is available for prep usage, peeling etc. So, the disposal would go on the small bowl.


7

I've always seen the garbage disposal installed on the smaller bowl. I'm not aware of any official convention or rule that says which side should be used, that's just what I've noticed.


7

Sounds like the chewed up gunk from the disposal has largely blocked the drain pipe. Try a plunger first (block all other connected drains) but that may or may not be effective depending on how far along the clog is. If the simple solution doesn't work, you'll have to open a clean-out (or the U-trap) and use an auger to break it out. You can rent a "snake"...


7

Sounds like the drain after the disposal and connection to the other sink is partially blocked. I'd start with a drain cleaner that's designed for a partial blockage. In the kitchen, it's likely a buildup from cooking oils and grease that got into the drain. If that doesn't work, then you can remove the trap under your sink and remove as much crud from it as ...


7

If you want to have power always on to a box that is downstream of a switch, you'll need to use 3-conductor cable between the switch and split the hot side of the outlet. At the outlet, break off the tab on the hot side only between the top and bottom outlet. Wire the red conductor to one of the hot screws, the black conductor to the other one, and then ...


7

The drain into the wall needs to be below that of the disposal and sink, there's no way to beat gravity with this. Your options are to: Raise the disposal output (with a different disposal) Raise the sink (with a different, shallower sink, or at least a shallow drain for the disposal) Lower the drain at the wall


7

Assuming that food waste disposers will include more grease going down the drain due to the variety of items being disposed, I've been told that cold water helps coagulate grease into chunks that wash down the drain. Somehow this helps reduce grease buildup in the trap. I would suspect that cold+liquid grease at the disposal gets broken up without gumming up ...


7

The manual for the garbage disposal I just installed says to use cold water because hot water could cause the motor to overheat.


7

What you have there is a single pole switch that has been tapped to continue the permanent hot to another source. Perhaps an outlet or dishwasher. If you are installing a new dishwasher it will probably have significantly more amps. This could become an issue with the old practice of putting the disposal and dishwasher on the same circuit.


6

The receptacle that the disposal is plugged into is fed from the Load side of the GFCI receptacle, thereby providing ground fault protection to the receptacle. There is a ground fault somewhere between the GFCI and the disposal, which is causing the GFCI to do it's job and trip. You'll have to locate the fault, and fix it. If you don't have (or know how to ...


5

Dishwashers usually have a built in food disposer, so having one is not required. I also suggest just replacing the existing disposer instead of removing it altogether. Cheapest ones cost around $60 and since they usually feature a quick change mechanism, the whole process takes 15 minutes. But if you remove one, then you will have to reroute a drain pipe ...


5

It is obvious to me that the main sewer line is restricted somewhere between the house and town line. In areas that allow storm drains to be coupled to sewer lines, it is important that these lines run freely. If yours is backing up with kitchen waste, there is only one solution. You need to have the line checked with a camera. you could have a simple ...


5

Based on your description, I don't think the problem is a jam. More likely the windings in the motor are bad or there is a bad contact in the motor. Because of the design of most domestic garbage disposals, you can't open the motor housing to fix these problems. Therefore your only option is to replace it.


5

Swamp gas is pretty close actually. Most disposers have quite the bacteria culture growing inside it's mechanism. What you are seeing and smelling is an aerosolized portion of this culture ejected from the disposer by the spinning action. It can't go down the drain because it is blocked by the water in the trap. It doesn't normally come up through the ...


5

Remove cabinet door. Fix leak. Remove particle board and put a box fan blowing into the cabinet for at least 24 hours. Treat the floor under there with a mold killing cleaning spray. Put the fan back while you cut the new bottom. I would do it piecemeal before removing the face of the cabinet. Which you may have to because removing the face of a corner ...


5

The round hole/port where the conduit fitting is located is actually a threaded port. If you unscrew the locking nut on the fitting, you will then be able to unscrew the threaded conduit fitting from the threaded port. Threaded port: Seal-tite conduit connector:


4

Your new disposal should be connected to a switched GFCI outlet. Verify that the outlet is not tripped. Using an outlet tester, verify that the switch properly powers the electrical socket. Many disposals have an integrated breaker. Locate this switch and verify that the disposal itself has not tripped. You could also try plugging the disposal into an ...


4

If it's coming out of the motor casing, the seal under the shredder plate has failed. The whole unit needs to be replaced. Repair is pointless as the garbage disposal will have other corrosion issues. From Photo It's coming from the trap joints. There's a square cut rubber gasket under that screw collar that's probably hardened, cracked and is the source of ...


4

I always install into the smaller bowl. (experienced but non-professional opinion) If you think about it, the only thing that would prevent access to the disposal is a sink full of water. I'd rather have the larger bowl available to fill up with water and still allow access to the disposal. If the user wants one bowl of water and still use the disposal, it ...


4

You incorrectly wired the switch into this device. What you've created is an always on device and a short in the middle of the circuit: Black --------+-----------+ | | line switch disposal | | White --------+-----------+ In this scenario, when the switch is flipped, ...


4

I have had several houses with a dishwasher but not a garbage disposal. I don't think it really changes the installation that much... the dishwasher waste pipe connects to the sink drain before the trap. If you want to plumb the dishwasher somewhere there isn't a sink already, you need to install a trap & standpipe, similar to the way a washing machine ...


4

I wouldn't rely on the old flange. While the flange itself might be fine, there's plumber's putty between it and the sink. That stuff doesn't last forever, and if you knock it loose replacing the disposal, you'll wind up pulling it off and adding it anyways. The good thing is it's not crazy hard to get off or put the new one on. The dishwasher compression ...


4

Depending upon the location of the kitchen sink with the garbage disposal, you could re-pipe the drain to a dump tank with a "macerator pump" or sewage pump. This would reduce the garbage disposal stuff to an almost liquid state, thus reducing the chance for a clog further down the drain. Our worst waste product that always plugged our drains were lettuce ...


4

You should not run NM sheathed cable through a cabinet that has doors which open to allow storage. You should be installing grounded receptacles and using appliance connector cords.


4

I'll try to answer your questions as stated. Minimum height difference I'm not sure if there is a code for this, but it's good practice to have the bottom of the disposal drain higher than the top of the drain into the wall. So a height difference of at least one pipe-width. But, as long as the bottom of your tailpiece is higher than the wall drain, the ...


3

One advantage of using a dishwasher in conjunction with a garbage disposer is that the drain hose of the washer goes directly into the upper section of the disposer. This provides the needed isolation between the washer drain hose and the sink drain trap. This isolation prevents back flow from the drain back into the dish washer. Without a disposer present ...


3

When I am doing a disposal install (non professional but at least 10 for friends and family) I do a double 90 right away and slope drain down a bit from there. After doing the double 90s you don't need that much slope but given you will potentially have food items I would maybe go 1/2" down overall on your straight into the T. Also BMitch is right. The ...


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