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Hot surface igniters are fairly universal it they look the same and have the same voltage. For example the igniters on this side of the pond they are usually 120v so depending on your area yours may be a 230/240v. I have had some bad luck with after market igniters coming cracked or with a fingerprint on the igniter in a sealed bag. Make sure not to touch ...


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You might have spiders and webs in the pipe try sucking a String through the pipe with a shop vac tie a SMALL rag on it with a string you can pull it back if stuck pull through it’s clean


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The national electric code requires a dedicated circuit for fixed ELECTRIC space-heating equipment, but does not require a dedicated circuit for fixed natural gas space-heating equipment.


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As it stands now that wiring doesn't match the convention. It does function, and in that sense it's not "wrong" as-is, but it makes things confusing up at the thermostat end of the wire. So, you could keep the wiring as-is in the furnace and make adjustments at the thermostat, or you could fix the wiring to conform to convention. Conform to Convention The ...


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Well, in the old wiring system, it doesn't really matter which wire goes to which terminal on the low voltage side of the transformer. Therefore, your installer didn't really care if they mixed up R and C on the transformer. Which, I think, is exactly what your installer did. Note that the transformer has an R and C terminal labeled. Assuming the red ...


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My daughter had the same problem and it randomly started blowing cold air. It was same brand I double wide suppose to be nonfunctioning but surprise. Thermostat was nailed to wall so I lossened it and was able to move the dial back and forth and it went off. I believe it is set to kick on at a predetermined temperature but it is mafunctioning.


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Had the same issue. Spark gap was not igniting the pilot intermittently. I lived with it for a long time, manually lighting with a grill lighter if needed, then the problem got worse when the pilot would shut off the burners prematurely before coming up to temp. Hired a heater repair guy to fix the issue. He replaced the spark/pilot assembly. Had the same ...


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If you installed a high efficiency sealed combustion chamber system the flue should have been changed to pvc. The old school ducting should not have passed inspection as it is not designed to be pressurized, there is not much pressure but it is there. Actually there should be both a supply line and the exhaust, normally connected to a coaxial roof jack so ...


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Condensation of water from the combustion gases , the flue is too cool. The flue pipe needs to be insulated to keep it hot, either replace with double wall pipe ( type B flue may be enough) or wrapped with a FIRE PROOF insulation.You could change the pitch ( raise the close end) but that will just run the water back down to the furnace, not likely to be ...


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This is a guess, but some thermostats require power to be delivered to Rc and Rh. They will usually come with a jumper wire to bridge the Rc and Rh terminals, but maybe this installer just got into the habit of using two wires because that thermostat didn't come with a jumper or it was lost, or that's just how he liked it. There should be no reason that ...


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Right after I asked this question I realized the blower needed to be running for EAC to have power. :facepalm: I moved HOT HUM to HOT EAC and now the humidistat will start the blower, which will power on the outlet that powers the humidifier's fan unit. I also unplugged NEUTRAL EAC since I'm no longer using it. Let me know if I did anything stupid here.


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Plain old mechanical thermostats don't care, but... They are simple switches, whether they are line voltage, millivolt, or 24V. However, obviously, they have different current ratings; I wouldn't lose any sleep over mixing up millivolt and 24V, but those must never carry line voltage. However, your thermostat with the single dial and the "large, black ...


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Connect the blue C wire to the junction of the thin white wire and the thick dark wires If you follow the yellow Y wire from the thermostat to where it goes in your furnance, it goes to a thin red wire. Since we know this wire is what energizes the coil of your A/C's compressor contactor during cooling, we know that the cable with the red and white wires ...


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yes, I understand that part. The issue is that it keeps blowing air until temperature goes down a few degrees lower than the setting and then fire starts up again. My guess is that the switches lose certain sensitivity, so they sometimes work during extremely cold weather (say sub 0) when temperature drop is quick, but not during regular cold, say 30s and ...


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Furnace blower fans will continue to run for a bit after the flame shuts off to strip the remaining heat from the heat exchanger and bring it into the rooms the furnace is heating. Think of it this way - the gas valve (the flame) is controlled by the thermostat, but the blower is controlled by a sensor mounted in the heat exchanger. If the heat exchanger ...


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"These furnaces". LOL. It is a poor carpenter who blames his hammer. I'd put a 45 degree elbow on it, pointing away from the intake duct and the roof (or any other structure). From that elbow add a short length of pipe with a 45 degree angle on it (or another 45 elbow), resulting in a vertical exit face orientation. Should keep 95% of the rain out without ...


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Tracking down an intermittent problem like this requires being careful and methodical. First, take Ed Beal's suggestion pull the switch out so the furnace runs without the cover. Then, start tracking results. Are you sure that tapping the circuit board fixes it? How about wiggling the wires, one by one? Or, can you cause the problem to occur (not go away) ...


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I would say possibly. If you can get the new filter to seal you may be able to install a new one but probably not. I say probably not because the piece of the old filter may allow air to bypass the filter. When you run the system without the filter all the dust and debris that normally get stuck on the filter end up in the heat exchanger. An excessive ...


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It turns out that there are two metal filters behind motor in the picture where you have dig your hands way deep in there and slide them off. First I got angry as why someone would put them there. Then I got happy when I found out they are washable. Talk about emotional roller coaster.


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Red is normally low, yellow medium and black is high. There is normally a wiring diagram on the motor. Your old motor should have the RPM’s listed , but normally high is for AC . Make sure to wire nut the 2 unused wires. And yes white is the neutral.


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I believe you cleared the error on the control board when you powered down the unit, those are thermal snap switches used for safety’s, the one with the red button is a manual reset (normally on the firebox overtemp). Next time it won’t start turn the power off for 1 minute then restore power and it will probably start. You need to find the control board ...


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All three of those, I believe, are temperature limit switches. Them being dirty should not matter. They check the temperature in a few important places and will cut power/ignition if an over-the-limit temperature is sensed. The other type of sensor you might find in a furnace is a pressure sensor, but they are normally larger because they have to detect ...


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I don't have enough rep to comment so I have to post as an answer. With that said, I ran into this issue myself a few years ago, I cleaned off all of my sensors just like you did. This did not fix my issue so I went over my flame sensor with some fine grit sandpaper. (pic of flame sensor) It has worked since I did this. Question, when your tstat sends ...


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I experience this exact same problem (sparking throughout the entire cycle) when the 646AX gas valve assembly failed and had to be replaced. No direct replacement was available but the stated equivalent replacement was the EF32CW. I soon found out that the EF32CW doesn't actually have true separate PICK and HOLD coils -- it just ties the two connections ...


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