4

We just use good ol' bondo to fill missing pieces in wood. In the cabinets I did last weekend, several of the doors had an inch worth of corner rebuilt from bondo. The other tool that helped us that weekend was a profile detail sander; specifically the octosander by Skil. You can use the same spray gun you would use for cars, but you might need a larger ...


3

Door latches (door handle you're referring to) are made to close while locked, they're a spring-loaded device that does not care that the door knob won't turn or lever actuate as the latch bolt gets pushed back against its spring by the striker plate before dropping into the pocket. It works this way whether the lock is engaged or not. Nothing in the lock ...


2

You dont state what your problem is. You can install the door to the outside of the door frame. It looks like the top sticks out farther than the sides so you either have to add a board the thickness of the distance to the outside of the side frame. If you need more room for the frame flange at the top you can add a 1x2 board to the top of the door . With ...


2

This could be a case where your home has been built on soil that moves with changes in moisture content, such as an area with expansive soil. There are expensive and intrusive methods for reducing the effects of soil expansion, but you can't really eliminate it. A 2 year old house should still be under a warranty of some sort, I would procure blueprints ...


2

A front door is just a controlled hole in the wall. But it is very controlled. You are right to think that there are structural issues. The wall where the door is located has several of its upright structural members (studs) removed. There has to be a horizontal support (header) added to make up for that, and extra vertical supports under that. The exact ...


2

In security the principle of weakest link applies. It's not possible to tell if the surface mounting alone will be the point of failure in your setup. The material of the door, the frame, hinges and the part which is most often overlooked: how well is the frame mounted to the wall pay equal role in providing security. There is nothing inherently wrong in ...


2

Definitely caulk under the threshold and at the ends. Whether you caulk the bottom partly depends on what's behind. If there's a drain plane back there, maybe leave the bottom open so water can weep out underneath. If not, seal it up. There's rarely any harm in caulking unless you trap water. I recommend urethane or pure silicone caulk. Acrylic latex just ...


2

The world of paint is intentionally made confusing by people trying to sell you stuff. (a lot like the world of investing.) One of their favorite tricks is taking buzzwords from better paints, and finding the minimum possible way to legally use those words in their product. Like spar varnish - it's for spars. Or Epoxy, which is 2-part by definition - ...


1

I believe it can widened if you connect the concrete pieces together (drill holes and add rebar between the two). Still, you may get a crack that would probably carry through any tile/grout you put on it. I'd instead consider replacement of the concrete with a wider piece. Either prefabbed or poured on site. If you pour it on site, you could have the ...


1

I like your first idea best. In fact, you could expand the addition to include the area to the left and include an entry closet. (I don’t like the looks of additions “pasted” on.) By expanding up to the existing roof, you’ll give the entrance a sense of volume and space, AND you’ll have an interior entry chandelier. Remember, any glass in a door, within ...


1

This is likely related to alignment of the latch (the mechanism that runs through the edge of the door, from the lockset to the door frame) with the strike plate (the metal plate attached to the door frame which guides the latch plunger to its "latched" position). Look closely at the strike plate for signs of misalignment; like heavy off-center scratches in ...


1

The urethane paint contains a harder resin which should increase durability on surfaces that are touched or washed often. It's "nice" rather than essential. Most people paint the trim and siding at the same time, so a longer lasting paint on the trim just makes things look nicer towards the end of the paint's life. "Trim Enamel" is a result of all paints ...


1

If three corners match but the fourth is off like you describe then it means that either the door jamb is not a vertical flat plane of that the door itself is warped. It is most likely to be the door because presumably at one time the installation of the door frame/jamb and the door matched up. The most normal fix for a warped door like this is to replace ...


1

It looks to me like the door is set poorly or has sagged, resulting in the bottom being too tight to the threshold. The adjustable threshold appears to be bottomed out at the point where the doors come together, and is higher in the foreground. Rather than modifying a mechanism that should work fine, I'd examine the door install for square, level, plumb, ...


1

Assuming the door is positioned in the frame properly and the stopper is all the way up and stays up then you should be able to grind a bit off of the stopper. If you don't have a handheld grinder you can get a grinding stone that will work with an electric drill. The stopper is probably hardened and will not grind quickly but it doesn't look like you need ...


1

From what little you have shown us, I'll fault it for inadequate attachment to door frame, and possibly to door. There are reasonably strong surface-mount ("rim") locksets. The Seagal-style vertical deadbolt design is something of a classical in that space; a non-junk lock, installed properly with hardened screws thru frame and into actual wall joists, can ...


1

If by "unsafe" you meant that the catch can be overcome fairly easily with blunt force, then yes, this is unsafe. Nothing short of high-security hardware, properly installed, is "safe" in my book. If you're looking to keep out nuisance kids and lazy thieves, use that. If you're looking to defend against armed burglars or other human threats, don't trust it....


1

Routing and a bit of chiseling at the corners and the bottoms of the 2 legs shouldn't be too expensive if hired. Good time to buy and learn to use a router. The transom is a bit tight, so you might need a rabbet plane or a oscillating multitool. Just get a accurate drawing of what size rough opening the storm door wants. Alternatively, you could attach ...


1

Spray paint made for metal. Take hardware off to get a professional look.


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