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8

That is not normal or acceptable workmanship. The correct response to a foundation that far out of specification is to require the foundation contractors to rip it out and try again, or not get paid. Clearly that point was missed. The larger problem for you is that you are already entered into a contract with an incompetent, lying builder. I'd have your ...


6

You should give the old paint a light sand to provide a “key” so the new paint will cover well. a fine grade sandpaper is all that is needed. A light sand is just enough to see gentle scratch marks in the surface and not heavy enough to go through into the layer beneath. If you don’t then when you put the new paint on it may not cover easily or when it dries ...


6

Does that stud seem structurally weak? Houses are framed and built with redundancy baked directly into the code books. A single rotted stud is not going to make your house collapse. Besides, houses with basements rely on the cinder block wall and central beams for structure. It is extremely unlikely that this basement stud is structural. Your number one ...


4

thank you so much for the advice and comments. The inspectpr came by yesterday and confirmed our concerns! He is going to fail the framing inspection and has provided a write up for all the items we were questioning. Keeping our eyes peeled for any issues moving forward.


4

Centre rail feet are not supposed to touch the floor. If they do, they interfere with the flex of the slats. They’re only there to prevent the slats breaking when folks initially get into bed - or jump on the bed. Or... 😬🙈 Generally, they should be a centimetre or so off the floor. Most centre rail breakages occur when people adjust the centre rail feet ...


4

I'd be cautious with anything holding up the top level that's not a bolt going all the way through the wood. The Ikea stuff tends not be overbuilt at all, so the wouldn't be a lot of extra wood to screw into to get a good hold. The extra braces are fine, but if it was my kid sleeping in the bed, I wouldn't want to rely only on some screws in <= 1" thick ...


4

The depression you're asking about appears to be simply sloppy manufacturing to me. It doesn't seem like an intentional countersink. If it was you'd probably have flat-head screws instead. The washer goes under the nut when working with metal, not under the screw head (unless there is no nut or it's an integrated nut). The screw head should be oriented ...


3

Edit: You are looking for a 2x6 aluminum tube. This should be pretty much have the same physical properties as a pine 2x6 (which looks like what you have in the lower picture). In the upper picture, it looks like two 2x2s that are sandwiched together. I would think that a single 2x4 tube would be fine to replace that, unless it needs that sandwich ...


3

If it is a split jamb it will not matter it will gauge itself to the wall thickness. If it is not, and you have an older home with 3 5/8" studs circa 1950-60's with 1/2 sheetrock, you will need the wider jamb. If it is a newer home, you may be able to go with the narrower jamb. The biggest downside to a smaller jamb, is there may be a gap that can occur at ...


3

It looks neat. I think I'd be looking for a glass railing engineer (as in an engineer employed by a firm in the business of glass railings or engineered/architectural glass structures in general) to ensure that the glass, mounting and attachments were all adequate. And I like doing stuff myself. I'd just be uncomfortable with the possibilities for building ...


2

Personally I would feel a lot safer using an A-frame. If your kids are anything like I was at their age, they're going to be swinging with all they've got. Plus, consider the weight of the tire (it's not nothing). Add all that force together and you would be putting a not inconsiderable amount of force on the posts. Plus, if they swing at an angle, they ...


2

Please keep in mind that headers are made to absorb some of the twist and vibration when someone decides a door needs to be slammed, leaned against to keep out little/big brother/sister, and other abuse. I would build as you suggested, and if it becomes a wall cracking/splitting issue near the door frame, then make a header with a double 2x4 or 2x6 instead ...


2

Just to add what Ecnerwal is saying - and he is 100% correct - I often use pocket doors in basements with lower clearance. You can screw pocket door frame directly to the joists and save and inch or two.


2

This is perfectly fine. There is in fact a whole building science based protocol for not using double top plates or double studs even on structural walls. If the name comes back to me I'll provide a link to it. Advanced Framing. Developed 40+ years ago and still not accepted by half the carpenters who learned from daddy who learned from daddy who...learned ...


2

It would be a mistake to install any window or door tightly in the framing. Houses move, and units installed tightly can get bound up and/or damaged. Your window should be installed level and square by shimming the bottom and sides. It's usually best to not shim the top in case the framing above settles. The rough opening should be about 1 inch larger than ...


2

It looks like the casing sustained most of the damage. It appears to be aged pine or fir. The challenge will be finding a matching profile. You may need to replace the casing on the entire opening face so that the three pieces match. Look for a molding with the same width as the original and a profile of similar style. Depth isn't critical as long as it's ...


2

The 45 deg cut gives more surface area for glue if you glue and more strength , 90,s are easy and can be nailed or glued but any paralyx (not totally square) will show more and be weaker than a 45. I have done both in the past but 45's look professional and last longer. Just look at your door frames, sliding screen doors and you will find 45's not 90's


2

Long (3") screws (3 or 4) through the jamb into the framing of the house should do it. Be careful not to drive them too tight; otherwise you'll warp the jamb and the door will fit loosely. In a perfect world, you'd predrill the jamb with a drill bit big enough that the screw goes through it readily (but not too loose). If you have the same problem on the ...


2

If you're installing the frame in a new wall, then you should have 'tie-wires' embedded into a groove running up each side of the frame. These are usually L-shaped lengths of galvanised wire about 4mm thick with the short leg of the L embedded in the groove in frame and the long leg sticking out. The long leg is then embedded into the mortar between courses ...


2

That appears to be a concealed overhead door stop. You might have to search around a bit to find the right style and size - if you know the manufacturer of the door you can try there to see if they sell replacement parts.


2

The center post do normally touch this supports the slats and keeps the frame level. It is difficult to tell how far off the floor this is there could have been a plastic foot at one time. I would use something solid like an old phone book if you can find one, or a piece of wood.


2

Trim molding will not hold a standard hinged door. It would take a skilled carpenter to move a hinged door outward. What part of the machines is preventing them being pushed further back? Could it be simply the dryer vent hose is interfering? Compare the specifications on the machines to the dimensions of your space. Is the washer hitting your back ...


2

That appears to be a fairly standard aluminum door and that the door frame has gotten a bit bent, and you do seem to have identified the area where it's catching. I'd suggest that you bang the frame back into its proper shape. A hammer would be the proper tool for this, BUT it's hard to hit a small area like that precisely with a hammer, and a missed shot ...


2

I had a similar situation recently and here's what I did. Disclaimer-there might be better ways to do this and I suggest you wait on more answers or comments. I created a temporary header near the doorway using 6x6's on the ceiling and floor, with bottle jacks and studs to hold the system up. I used foam board on the ceiling to not damage the drywall finish. ...


2

Without a full mental picture, here are my initial suggestions... Can I remove those shims? Probably. Head jamb anchor points are sometimes needed to prevent horizontal (in-out) movement in the frame, but if you have mounting flanges or something else on the door to do that they aren't needed. Most doors I've installed have been done without head jamb shims ...


2

Depending on the material and the screws you may not need pilot holes; just a little force to get them started. The shelf will provide additional lateral stability. Whether or not you need it is an engineering question. I would definitely want that added stability. Sometime in the future, when you decide to slide the TV on the table top, e.g., for dusting or ...


2

Drilling pilot holes for screws is always a good idea especially near the edge of the board so you do not split it. Drilling pilot holes is not difficult, you want a drill bit the same diameter, or slightly smaller, then the shank (not the threads) of the screw. You can get away with skipping the pilot holes on soft woods like pine if the screws are not ...


2

I’ll try to help. There are several issues. First, I don’t think the posts have to extend two stories. I think the posts could extend from a foundation support up to the deck structural system. Second, posts could extend from the deck structural system up to the roof overhang if necessary for the guardrail support. (The posts could align with the first floor ...


2

That crack looks fine to me. From the image it looks to be mostly superficial... I might drill a pilot hole if the screw is going dead center where the crack is, just to make sure the crack doesn't widen. If you want to err on the safe side, you can get another 2x4 stud and nail it to the side of the existing, cracked stud (this is called sistering) with ...


2

I'm guessing that this is a shear wall, or that the wall wasn't originally finished with drywall and required at least some diagonal bracing because it's load-bearing. For that reason I wouldn't completely strip it, but you should be fine doing as you are and removing the bottom 16" or whatever. You may be required (or wise) to float blocking behind ...


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