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0

When you say two short are the mop boards or trim in place? If it can be seen with the trim make the contractor repair , longer flooring or thicker trim. The reason you hire a pro is for it to look good not diy. If the contractor gives you a hard time forward copies of the contract and pictures of the gaps to the BBB and contractors board.


3

First, why are you against tile? Tile/stone in general will be your best bet for the finished (top) layer - it is generally unaffected by water. Wood can swell (engineered is better, but still not great where bulk water is expected,) and even vinyl has problems if water gets underneath -- there were lux vinyl tiles in the laundry room of a house we ...


5

I've had lots of problems in rental properties with tile floors over "waterproof" wood-based subfloors (either "waterproof" plywood or "waterproof" particle board). These subfloors always flex a little bit under load, which inevitably ends up cracking joints between tiles. Sometimes cracks are impossible to see. Then water seeps below the tiles and degrades ...


1

I would still do a takeoff on Michael Karas's answer about extending the door jamb and trim to the floor. I had the same situation where a new floor was installed with a much thinner material than original, so I had many gaps around the bottoms of door trim that had to be remedied. I used a small piece of three-quarter inch wood to serve as a gauge block and ...


1

The better way is to extend the door side casing trim to the floor surface. Ideally that would involve removing the old paint covered trim and replacing with a new longer piece. The alternative, as you propose, to run the base shoe molding under a foreshortened casing is not going to look too great as there will still be an ugly gap due to the rounded top ...


11

First of all, you cannot assume that any flooring you install is going to be "waterproof". That is an impossible standard in home construction, so the solution is to PREVENT water from getting to the floor surface and also to ACCOMMODATE any that does get there. That being said, you should choose a flooring material that doesn't degrade when wet. Tile is ...


0

If this is under a door, then a simple answer may be to just install a threshold or "junction", typically a metal strip used to join a carpeted floor to a non-carpeted floor, or when two types of mis-matched carpet meet. These "junctions" could be lumber, sheet metal, sheet copper or brass, or something more stylishly related to your home.


1

I'm not sure what "chipboard" is, but your plan is ok if you use a structural sheet material (OSB or plywood). The span across the wall void is wide enough that you should find a way to support the sheet at the far side, though, or it's likely to flex a fair bit.


2

Cat walk or rat walk is what we called them. We usually laid them flat and would staple the romex. They keep the boards from moving and cracking the Sheetrock, since you are decking the area make sure to do the same with the decking or as you move around it will damage the Sheetrock.


1

If you're happy with the height of the kitchen baseboard being a little lower, then you could cut a strip off the bottom of the kitchen baseboard so when it rests on the tile, its height matches the lounge baseboard. You can then mitre the right end to make a neat finish with the lounge. If the baseboard ends here then the left end can be mitred as shown ...


1

There are several factors in designing floor systems Normal Loading consists of Live Loads (people, furniture, etc.) and Dead Loads (carpet, subfloor, insulation, ceiling finish below, etc.) The Code requires a minimum of 40 psf Live Load and 10 psf Dead Load. Check to see if your construction exceeds this minimum. You can google how much plywood weighs ...


1

The joists will be more springy than with a shorter span. It will carry the load that they are designed for. If you want to reduce the springiness, set the joists at 12" centers instead of 16" and add 2 rows of bridging instead of one through the center. This of course will cost more and carry a much heavier load but will reduce deflection.


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If the concrete brick block floor is dry you might be able to put a floating floor on it a nice thick pad for insulation the floor needs to be flat. There are many different brands and many snap together, one of the first of these I did back in 2000 is still in good shape and we have had 3 dogs. The walls could be covered with furring strips and Sheetrock ...


1

To me, it looks more like solid wood planks. As mentioned previously, your choices are basically to sand it down and have it fully restored, which in my experience is expensive, or completely replace the flooring which might actually be cheaper. Might be a better idea to choose new flooring, maybe go with lookalike wood flooring that's a bit more hard ...


4

From what you've told us, it sounds like you are trying a number of good ideas to help mitigate the smell and lingering off-gassing but maybe not optimally. I actually would advise against using bowls of water or vinegar and adding unnecessary moisture to the air. You actually want to remove moisture from the air (air conditioners //air dehumidifiers do ...


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In a similar situation, we floated the hardwood, removing the polythene sheet off the underlay material to avoid the double vapor barrier. Been good for 5+ years. Engineered wood flooring is the right choice in this circumstance.


1

Why do you want to identify the type of flooring? It looks like solid wood flooring. Are you looking to identify install type (floating, nail, glue down), wood species? For a scratch like that I'd be tempted to just spot sand and try to buff a finish in that blends with the existing. In order to do that well you'd probably want to try sanding a board ...


1

You have two choices: Sand down and refinish the entire room Can be costly. DIY tends to produce terrible results Remove, replace, and finish just the affected planks If you choose this then you can more easily identify the wood once it is removed


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I have put down peel n' stick flooring after removing an older peel n' stick floor. You need to lay down a new 1/4" layer on top of the old floor. Yes the new floor would stick to the older sub-floor/glue, however, you'll find edges and corners that just won't stay stuck down. With a new 1/4" floor you'll set. Just pull out the baseboard shoe moulding and ...


2

Check the "surface prep" instructions as it will likely instruct you to remove all previous residue, grease, dust, etc... or else they won't warrant their product. FYI, removing all of the residue is damn near impossible as you are finding out and if you lay down new peel-n-stick then take a wild guess at what will happen to your new flooring in a few years....


1

First off, check with the manufacturers of the tile you're putting down on surface preparation. In my experience, glues and adhesives don't stick well to old glues and adhesives or to the residue they leave. You should clean the surface with an adhesive remover like Goof Off. You can get it at many home stores. As always, read and follow the directions. Good ...


1

Years ago there was a product for wood working that was like a stick of plastic that you melted into gouges. It had multiple colors and if it is still available you could probably find it at a woodworking site.


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The simplest way to fix the issue is what Jimmy Fix it suggests, or even a smaller version of what he has pictured by cutting down that material even smaller before finishing the same as the floor. If you want it to look the way it does now minus the gap, that will be an entirely different matter. It will require the removal of the original nosing, ...


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Since that area of the floor will be under the new cable banister/rail, there would be no fear of creating a tripping hazard by covering the gap with a decorative wood strip. I would use a low-profile oak "carpet transition bar" type of strip, stained and varnished to match.


1

That has a high probability of being particle board. You can doublecheck by looking at where the big gouges are... if the material is small flakes/big sawdust, then it's particle board. (Destructive triplecheck by putting a puddle of water on top and seeing if it puckers up.) Given that you've got a fair bit of damage, now might be the time to replace it ...


3

If we're talking about any sort of engineered joist (truss, TJI), stop reading now and consult a local engineer. This answer assumes solid 2x10 lumber. I'm guessing that you don't mean a header so much as a joist fit between the sistered joists alongside. Since the span is so short (presumably 32" or less), you can use a single joist of the same height as ...


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Asbestos was identified in the 70’s as a health concern by the late 80’s it had strict regulations for inspecting and removal although the EPA ban in the US & many other countries also banned asbestos. Asbestos was still legal into the early 90’s in some areas if you are concerned have the material tested. Color of a material is not an indication if it ...


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