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0

I would fill the gap with grout or thinset like Ed mentioned but then I'd install some PVC baseboard and 3/4" quarter round to cover it up. Enjoy the new vanity.


1

I would just mix some thinset or grout and fill the gap. This would keep moisture from getting into the wood below when moping or a splash or leak.


2

Given that you said "I'd rather not test it" then don't test it; it's your health at risk, not mine. So I'm really not sure that you'd listen to advice telling you to do otherwise. Asbestos fibers cannot be identified by the human eye and require a microscope for identification. If asbestos fibers were released into the air then they can remain airborne and ...


1

The diameter of that drain pipe looks like you could snake it, which in my experience is the best way to actually clean/unclog a pipe. I'm not sure if you can get access to the other end where you can run the snake without cutting the pipe, but there are a few 90s at the end in the photo, so you might need to do both ends. I do think the other person was ...


1

The drain pan should have a limit switch/sensor which prevents operation of the unit if the sensor detects the pan is full. Either this switch/sensor has gone bad or was never installed to begin with. I've never installed/replaced such a sensor so I cannot state how hard it would be to do so, but my guess is it should be fairly simple. The condensate is not ...


-1

Broken glass plus clear caulk in a bowl. Mix and fill gaps with a putty knife


0

Although you might have worn through the finish if you were aggressive enough or the scouring pad was course enough, try cleaning gently (to remove any residue) and then buffing it out with a microfiber cloth and water. If that doesn't work, you'll have to check with your landlord/super/apartment manager. Scuffing of the finish shouldn't be an uncommon ...


0

My back porch roof is 10' long and framed with 2*4s on 16" centers, I had to do a bunch of work up there when I first bought the place because a tree fell on it. I weigh about 225lb, didn't have any problems besides not really wanting to be up there. Just make sure the framing is sound, and add supports perpendicular to the 2*4s so they won't want to roll. ...


4

Looks like an epoxy floor coating. Quikrete, Drylock, and Rust-Oleum have products, probably many other specialist coating and concrete manufacturers do as well (I have a can of Quikrete's version kicking around somewhere that I got from a friend who overbought it, but I haven't gotten around to putting it down yet. Can't really help beyond identification).


2

You can certainly varnish a section or a spot. Far better than leaving it bare, if it is, where it will just get harder to fix while you wait - even if it does not match at all. Making it blend is more trouble, though some of that can be helped by "just using it" rather than worrying about about it when it's freshly redone and the rest of the floor isn't - ...


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