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Too much for a comment, doesn't quite answer the actual question, but contains information the OP should be aware of. Where the flexi-hose attaches to the solid pipe, the installer should have put small in-line shut-off valves [You should have one of these behind every tap in the house]. Either someone skimped at your expense, or they're not compulsory in ...


At some point it is not worth it and get a new faucet. That being said, for a Moen shower/tub valve, I had to drill a 5/16 hole in the back, put a 1/4 punch through the hole and hit it with a hammer to remove the old cartridge. Then ground the back of the valve flat and soldered a copper patch on it. Worked fine for a few years until I moved.


Heat can do wonders here, even at just boiling water temps. The housing will expand more than the cartridge threads, possibly breaking it loose but more likely just easing friction. Either drizzle boiling water on it or heat it with a heat gun, hair dryer, or plumber's torch. Obviously be careful with the latter to not scorch the finish or any nearby objects....


I've often found that PB Blaster™ will work where WD-40™ will not. Also a pair of locking pliers (like Vice-Grip™) clamped down really hard might get you a grip where all those corners have been rounded off. You may end up having to replace parts because the serrated jaws of the pliers will tear that up. Of course, as rounded as those corners are, you'll ...


You,or someone else, have done a great job of massacring the threads on that valve stem. At this point all I can suggest is getting a pipe wrench and trying again to turn it counter clock wise. If that doesn't loosen it up, you'll probably be stuck replacing the faucet.


Remove all the pipework bits, as they need to come off to allow the body to be removed from the worktop anyway. Deep sockets are a solution - but likely expensive and may not be easy to find. I made one using some old pipe of a suitable diameter and a file. Did not take long and worked well - those nuts are usually not too tight. A plan B is to use a drill ...


Probably not grit but calcium deposits that collect in the mechanism.


A stem extension kit might work. Without seeing the trim I couldn't say for sure.


Since you've indicated that you have access to the back side of the wall, my answer is to move the plumbing. It doesn't sound fun or easy, but it shouldn't be too bad. Use grinding and drilling tools to carve out the framing and drywall as needed, then shift and re-secure the plumbing. The 1x4 down low may not even be a problem. I'd bet that the two 1/2"...

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