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Try this before you start back flowing. Unscrew the hot supply line under the sink where it connects to the hot faucet. Turn the hot supply valve off first. Aim the hose into a container and open the hot shut off valve all the way. Note on the force of the water stream into the container. Does it spray with a powerful stream? If yes the problem lies between ...


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It sounds like some debris from the shutoff valve ended up in the faucet cartridge or the airator. The flow starting strong and quickly could even be a chunk of the shutoff valve seat that has crumbled getting stuck so the flow starts out good then the chunk blocks the flow to a trickle, disassemble and possibly flow water into a bucket will probably flush ...


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In the close-up in photo *1 just above the first set of threads there is a "c" shaped clip. With a small screwdriver (or nail) pry it off. Be prepared for it to shoot away. Once removed the stem should slide (or un-thread) away from the base.


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It turned out that the faucet end and the filter were both 55/64-27. I was able to confirm this when 13/16 and 15/16 both did not fit. The lesson is that if it screws on, it's probably the same size. The various faucet sizes are different enough that they won't be able to thread onto each other. But why was the filter not fitting well despite the threading ...


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The problem with a traditional widespread faucet would normally be the sheer physical size. You will probably find that the girth of the spout where it meets the deck will interfere with the handle escutcheons/trim. However, if you find one that fits there should not be a problem. Centerset lavs are typically fine to use where a mini-widespread was installed....


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To further diagnose this, get a glass and fill it with cold water, then smell it away from the sink, if it stinks, you most likely have an anaerobic bacteria colony in the piping near that particular sink. It smells like sulfur. I've had that problem in my house (well water) repeatedly. I finally think I got it all and haven't had the problem in a few ...


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Difficult to be sure, as I've never met one in person before, but judging from what I can see in your picture I suspect there is a part on the threads, but there also appears to be a pin (on, I think, that part) through the side of the "fork" part, and I suspect you can pry the left (open) side of the fork to pop the hole in the fork off the pin, ...


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Under that brass nut is a copper or plastic ferrule (sometimes called an olive) if the inside of it is scratched it will not seal.They are cheap so replace it. Make sure the end of the pipe is smooth and has no spurs that could scratch the new ferrule. If the pipe has shrunk from the pressure of the old ferrule cut that part of pipe off clean up the cut edge ...


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It could be pressed into some plumber's putty. Use pieces of duct tape to make a full contact "wing nut" to grab the dome. Then drip some baby oil around the groove. Use the wing nut to try to wiggle and lift, and add some more drops of baby oil. Do not pry with anything or you might chip the porcelain dome.


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I believe that you may be able to find replacement for your wall mounted faucet spout. These are common in commercial or restaurant applications. I found this one but i do not know if the threads are compatible. If you live in metropolitan area you could take it to a dedicated plumbing supply house and see if they can match it. More spouts.


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You might get away with unscrewing the spout, cleaning the threads on both the spout and faucet with a brass brush (just to clear any accumulated crud, especially if you have hard water), wrapping the threads with thread tape, then tightening it back on. If that doesn't fix it, odds are good that you'd have to replace the whole faucet. I'm not sure where you'...


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Assuming you have an anti-scald mixing valve then it sounds like the seal (gasket) inside the bathtub faucet's cartridge could be compromised. When the water pressure is full force (no other faucet diverting pressure) then the gasket is being sealed by the water pressure but as soon as a tap is opened then it alleviates enough pressure for the tub valve to ...


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You are conflating two very different issues: Quality of DIFFERENT models Different models of faucets made by the same company, sold at wildly different prices, may have the same internal components that determine longevity and functional quality, with differences in pricing due to other issues such as style, outer coatings, etc. Or they may really have ...


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This means the valve packing is leaking. The first thing to try is to tighten the nut a little and see if that will fix it. Most valve packings can be tightened several times but don’t go crazy tight as that can make the valve difficult to operate and shorten the packings useful life. If tightened and it still leaks some new packing can be added. I find the ...


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As mentioned by Ecnerwal, the washer needs replacing that is around the stem. you can remove it with a wrench turning counter clockwise (CC) Once it's free turn the handle CC to remove the washer assembly. You can also wrap Graphite string (or teflon tape) around the stem and under the nut.


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Your indication of where it leaks from suggests that simply repacking the valve stem might fix your leak, without having to change the faucet. If you do change the faucet, if the pipe in the basement is threaded, just unscrew it - either the pipe in the wall will unscrew, or the faucet will, and if the pipe in the wall is what unscrews, you can remove it ...


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