New answers tagged

1

I found out how to separate the drawer front from the sides without any damage or cutting the dowels. I used a pair of small plastic wedges. Insert a wedge on either side of the metal fastener, with the tip of the wedge pointing outwards to the edge of the drawer. Push the wedges in as far as they will go, pushing the side of the drawer up. You should be ...


1

Are you replacing all of the treads? If so, can you tear out the old, rotten stringer so you don't need to sister in a new one? That would be best if the part of the stringer supporting some treads is beginning to fail. It will also make it easier to use a modern connector between the top of the stringer and the joist supporting the landing. If you can't ...


1

We will all assume that you have been and will continue to drive the mounting screws into wood wall studs. If you are not screwing into the studs then screw size is basically irrelevant because any size screw driven directly into plaster or wallboard has a high probability of pulling out. On shelving standards, the number of mounting holes with screws varies ...


4

The factory screws look like #10 sheet metal screws with a flat head, just eyeballing it. You will want screws the same size so that the head fits just-right in the hole, too big and they won't sit flush. Sheet metal screws will be stronger than drywall screws, but wood screws or construction screws will be stronger than sheet metal screws.


0

This equipment has several bolts located near the floor I would put an angle bracket under the head of the bolt and fit a coach bolt from underneath up through the bracket and attach with a washer and a shake-resistant nut. You cut a recess for the bolt-head by drilling part way through the bottom sheet with a spade bit. Else tee-nuts for wood are a good ...


Top 50 recent answers are included