7

Since hot rises, upper stories will tend to be warmer unless the design of your air conditioning system properly compensates for it. An energy audit, as mentioned in the comments by @mikes will tell you if you have any reasons for heat gain that may be correctable. Assuming you have a single thermostat that controls a unit that supplies both levels, here ...


6

Update: Use this plan to mine bitcoin or other cryptocurrencies. Beware: sharp spikes This billing scheme is covered with sharp spikes. It'll be practically impossible for average consumers to comply with the rules, because even if you're really trying, one misstep in a month can spike your bill $35 or $70. "for no conceivable reason". Only consider ...


3

The general principle to use is that actual air leaks are a lot worse than just having poor insulation. Look around your doors, windows, plumbing, attic/basement/crawlspace access hatches, fireplace, and anywhere else where there's a hole in the wall. Anywhere you feel air movement is an issue. Anywhere you can see daylight (that's not glass) is an issue.


2

It is very unusual but not unheard of to have a furnace hooked up to a heat pump. Usually you would have an air handler and air handlers usually have backup electric heating strips. These heat strips Combined with the 300-400 watts from the blower could easily suck 1700 Watts. The strip heat should not be on when the fan is set to on and the temperature is ...


2

Your method works to a first approximation. One big assumption is that you had no (or little) costs to heat and cool during that smallest-bill month of May. The other big assumption is that all of your other loads during that month of May are representative of the loads the rest of the year. If both of those are true, then your method should be quite ...


2

My answer is old school but it has worked for me many times. Get a roll of that semi clear plastic and tape a piece to the entire inside window frame, basically sealing it. Any air leaking will either bow or suck in the plastic. you can then work on fixing any leaks and will know when you've succeeded because the plastic will quit moving. here is a link to ...


1

As with most items, there are good, better and best. With Pelli, you can break that down into another hundred parts or so. Background: In the construction industry, most items (locks, carpet, windows, roofing, etc.) are divided into “design grade” and “spec grade”. Design Grade is the top grade and used by architects and contractors for top performance. ...


1

I'm going to disagree with the other answers and say that a storm door will provide a very marginal insulation ability. It may not even be worth your time depending on what your actual problems are. A storm door will protect the main door from high winds which can stop a lot of drafts if that is an issue. High winds can force cold air through the cracks ...


1

If you replace the door with another wooden door with a single pane of glass, you won't see any significant benefit. Unless you go to an architectural salvage yard, you'll probably have a difficult time finding another wooden door with single pane glazing. You can find wooden doors at your local big-box, but they'll come with significantly improved glazing ...


1

Does a storm door help prevent heat loss? Yes, unequivocally. The closed storm door traps a pocket of air between the screen and entry doors. That trapped air significantly slows heat transference from indoors to the great outdoors. How much? From the ACCA Manual J, it looks like adding a storm to any door increases the R-value of the door by about 2. Here ...


1

One way is to heat the whole house so it is above the outside ambient temperature, say 24 degrees C, then use a thermal camera to take pictures of the outside walls and roof surfaces of the house. Those walls, windows etc that are loosing heat faster than other surfaces or parts of surfaces show up. If the camera is calibrated then it will provide a scale ...


1

I have a similar setup as you. Same Climate Zone (Georgia, USA) and similar type of basement and walls. Since the vapor barrier could cause water condensation in the wall if you go with drywall, you'll want to remove it. I am going to seal my wall with a heavy masonry sealer like DryLock first. Then use foam board because it would be mold resistant. If ...


1

Without a doubt, it is the Kill-A-Watt meter. You want to measure Watts. And also Watt-hours. Here is what they look like: They are available from many vendors. Worth every penny. Every brand offers both instantaneous use, but also cumulative and max. Since most work the same, I suggest you shop around, assure yourself they all do about the same ...


1

The question asks how 30-minute demand is measured and how a 2790 W dryer contributes. There are actually quite a few number of methods for measuring demand, based on old electromechanical meter technology. Digital meters make it simpler today. To measure 30-minute demand, the power company splits each hour into two intervals. The 30-minute demand of a ...


1

Rather than hit you with the "peak" demand charge (your maximum draw, instantaneously, at any point in the month) the power company is offering a bit of a break for short-term loads, or short-term combined loads. Your demand charge will be based on the largest load sustained for 30 minutes or more (or perhaps, the largest average load over 30 minutes or ...


1

Building Air Standard (BAS) is sometimes referred to as BAS - ACH This appears to be a (I begin to think deliberately, after quite a few vague web results) slippery number to track down, but it appears to be essentially an estimation of "natural air changes per hour" based on the blower door test. Simply calling it "Estimated ACH" would apparently be too ...


1

A lot of good suggestions were given, but in my case it ultimately was two things: Poor insulation - the energy audit found the insulation was about 8 to 10 inches too low for our area. Given the age of the house, it wasn't surprising that this needed to be rectified. Soffit vents - or lack thereof. I had no soffit vents to ventilate the attic properly. ...


1

Not sure if this would work in your case but I have seen it work really well in a small single level house designed to capture the sun that I stayed a few weeks in over a summer. Have you tried putting an inlet vent with damper low down in a cool part of the house and a similar vent high up on the 2nd level? The idea is that in summer if you open up ...


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