New answers tagged

1

You can use basic joint compound for the inside areas of your walls. You will want to put paper or mesh tape around that cutout. And you will want to put an ample amount of compound and feather it out. It is a lot of work to get a circular cutout to not show in a few months. By the window this is cannot be repaired with joint compound long-term. ...


1

Remove Highs, Fill Lows Knock down the high points with a putty knife or other similar tool so that nothing is higher than the final surface that you are after. Fill in the lows with two layers of different types of dry wall mud as noted below. Fill in most of the holes or voids with setting-type drywall joint compound commonly called 'hot mud' which is a ...


1

All, We ended up sanding off the peeled pieces, , re-spackling (using same brand but slightly older container I had in the garage), re-sand/clean, SKIPPED priming, and painted directly on it. Paint held without issues and wall looks good now. We are guessing that it was the DAP spackling and we had a bad tub that didn't handle the primer. We used the primer ...


1

The joists are likely on either 16 inch or 24 inch on center (OC) spacing, though rarely some are 19.2 inch oc. They will usually span in the direction of the shortest room dimension but not always. Since you have one located as you noted, I suggest measuring 16 inch and 24 inch in both directions and try drilling there and you should hit them with one of ...


5

I would suggest that you install 1x4 furring strips (example not a recommendation) across the joists. Use the picture below as an example. Notes: 24" is too far apart to install 5/8" on a ceiling. It would sag over time especially in a garage where there are more humidity and heat changes. So even if they were dead on - still a bad install. ...


2

Best way - 1x3 strapping at 90 degrees to the vaguely located rafters (bottom chords), precisely located. Note that you can center the strapping at 24, 19.2, 16 or 12 inches, as desired, and that at any spacing it gives you 2.5" ("dressed" or planed 3") of target surface, not 1.5" as your dressed/planed 2" bottom chords do. If you were planning to insulate ...


1

I assume that you're talking about ceiling joists (truss bottom chords) and not rafters. If they're rafters, obviously you can't move them. Pull the ceiling joists into position. They're floppy. If the carpenters nailed down the "rat run" without doing layout, you might pull the nails in that, lay out the joists properly, and re-nail. Add sistered backing ...


0

We just replaced old wood paneling with drywall, and now we seem to have a moisture issue! The rooms seem damp, though we also added air conditioning to the rooms which should have made moisture issues better (though we didn't really have any before). Not only do they seem damp, we had a ball stick to the drywall and take the outer layer of paint and ...


2

If you are really dedicated to avoiding replacement of a sheet of drywall (see other answers), then drill a small hole near the top of the run, and insert an endoscope or equivalent. Lower it slowly until you see where the drip is occurring. Cut there. You can get USB-powered & connected scopes like this for peanuts at the usual shopping places ...


0

If the leak has been going on for a while and is bad enough to allow water to spray out sideways so it hits the drywall (instead of just dripping out slowly and traveling down the pipe) you just need to gently but firmly probe the drywall with your fingers until you find a soft spot caused by the drywall absorbing the water. Since it is already leaking there,...


4

Sure, just turn the water back on and wait. Of course, that won't actually minimize the drywall repair work. But you'll eventually localize where the leak is. My actual approach would be to point out that a big drywall repair is barely any harder than a small one, so get over that misconception and rip away.


0

I would use expanding plastic screw anchors or wooden dowels. I've used solid wall anchors such as this many times over the years and they provide secure attachment when installed properly. You need to drill a clean, precisely-sized hole in the wall to hold the anchor. The size/depth of the hole is specific to the anchor. When a screw is introduced into ...


0

For a 30 pound mirror i would not use just screws into plaster and lath. If your wall is as you state in the comments then i would use My favorite Toggle anchors They are very strong and have a beefy machine screw. You will need a 1/2 inch drill bit. You drill the hole, collapse the anchor, slide it into the hole, snug up the wall tab and break off the ...


0

Like Jack said this is drywall which is as expected. But let's dig into your picture a little. It looks like you oversaturated the ceiling and almost put too much water on it. I have taken down many a popcorn ceiling and you basically have two choices that make the job easy. You water and SAND. There are actually tools that do both. I have seen ...


2

One of the things that happens during home renovations is the DIYer in the house (raising my hand as guilty) is cautious of creating a snowstorm of mud (joint compound) that is sanded off. This leads to trying to use thin layers of mud which means less sanding. While our intentions are good this leads to tape jobs sticking out, edges not feathered enough, ...


5

Absolutely you can skim. (Lots of people deliberately prime in order to see the defects that might not be obvious.) If you can, use topping mud, which will sand more easily and give a better feathered edge than all purpose mud.


0

This needs proper taping or it's likely to crack on the joint. Lay two strips of standard tape in a thin bed of joint compound and let it dry. Then skim wide and flat with a second coat. Evaluate the situation when that dries, and skim again if necessary. Standard advice: Very little sanding should be necessary. Skim thinly with firm pressure to achieve a ...


1

When I poke pull holes I do similar, 200 grit paper will knock the ridges or a sanding sponge, once the ridges are down skim coat or the paper will probably show, a wide taping knife and some pre mixed mud skimmed on will work let dry and sand then get a can of spray texture and try to match , do not use tape to block off an area as the tape will produce a ...


2

That electrician was no plasterer. First you need to get rid of the high spots where the paper part of the drywall is showing through, you might need to cut that out with a knife. after that you just need to fill it with plaster filler until it's flat then sand it smooth and paint. If you light it at an extreme angle the high spots will be easily visible. ...


1

I have installed quite a few registers like that but have never found them for sale. I have made them out of scraps of polypropylene, and UHMW. Most had to be shaped on 1 side a belt sander worked well for that holding the plastic with pliers. A few I could put in without shaping but not very many. Note if you drill the hole with a drill it needs to be ...


0

Unfortunately there is no way to fix this issue from the inside. Any product you apply will only temporarily fix the problem of water infiltration through the wall. The only fix that will work is to excavate around the perimeter, install a drain to carry the excess water away, and apply a product to the outside of the wall that will seal it and another to ...


0

"Old work" electrical boxes have similar tabs. I've never seen tabs like that sold separately, but the electric boxes are cheap enough that you could just buy a few for the screws and tabs they come with. Note the tab sticking up in the picture.


4

Those wires that fed the old receptacle were likely disconnected in the junction box on the other end of the piece of cable you see. The electrician may have even cut the other end back so that he was able to push it out of the junction box completely, so you may not even be able to see the other end. It's pretty hard to take the old wire out, it should be ...


3

I’ve used a high quality no shrink paintable caulk when I’ve made a very clean cut drywall edge both on an inside wall to wall and a wall to stipled textured ceiling. I finger tooled and it not only looks great, it saved a ton of time and finesse and continues to look great. I fully understand the drywall purists position but take a good look at all the ...


3

I would be concerned about putting that much over all weight on drywall. Even though it may be supported by the floor. The facing on drywall is only paper. When the thinset is applied, the paper will get wet, which it will, even with coats of paint over it. Even if the paper stayed bonded to the gypsum core, that is all it is bonded to. Gypsum has no real ...


3

Masonry walls sorry spell check brick , concrete etc . I am not sure if flood damage once repaired requires notifications. The bulge won’t hurt but it looks ugly I use a steamer and sometimes a spray bottle with water to remove bad tape jobs. Then retapping and painting. I don’t know if it will get any worse but it normally won’t get better, some cases it ...


2

In residential construction up through duplexes, 1-hour Fire rating (1 layer) is required on the garage side of the ceiling and walls when there is a living space on the other side. When you have 3 units or more, then you MAY need 2 layers, depending on the size of the complex and type of construction. For ceilings in 1 and 2 unit residential units: 1 ...


0

I have never seen local code in my life requiring a double sheet of dry or more than 5/8". Period. To second this due to the weight of the 5/8" drywall there would be some innate issues installing it over the top of another 5/8" sheet. It could be done but your screws not having framing for the first 5/8" is a recipe for failure. So either this is the ...


1

I'm sure that you mean BOCA (Building Officials Code Administrators) rather than Baco. But I'm also sure that you probably need to adhere to the IBC (International Building Code) You need (1) layer of 5/8" drywall and it needs to be mudded and taped to get the needed fire rating


0

I had the same problem in my basement, as well as for a few clients (I'm a handyman). I came up with a spring system to hold the vents in place. Here's a link to the video I created for it. It's not dependant on the drywall holding anchors, or any screws of any type. https://youtu.be/bHWa9MCxrDQ


1

How thick is that paneling likely to be? No one here can make that assessment for you; you will need to inspect the wall, by either drilling a hole at the intended mounting site, or opening the wall up. Is that same double-thickness situation (which looks like plaster over drywall, or maybe two layers of plaster) likely to be under the paneling? Again, ...


5

Insulation does not require anything over the top of it to be effective. I'm not sure where you read that, but I don't believe it's true. Obviously you need to stop air movement, but the paper does that. The usual reason to cover it is for fire protection. If your local code doesn't require that you cover the kraft paper, you don't need to. However, ...


2

There are pre-taped corners that are available from you home store that would look great here. You have to mud the corner part of the wall and then install the corner and then mud the tape on each side and then finish with a skimcoat. Hope this helps.


2

Drywall that has warped from leaning against a wall like yours should be laid flat on the floor in stacks that won’t overload the floor joists specifications. After a couple of days the bend should be gone. Do not attempt to install without allowing the boards to flatten out because trying to force the curvature out with screws will not work and the ...


2

For a larger drywall patch, say 2'x2', here's what I have done... It's a little time consuming but fairly clean. I cut 90% of the square hole out with a repic saw and leave enough uncut for the drywall to not fall out (making a huge mess). I have someone hold a shop vac close to the saw to get the dust. Then I get 2 pieces of wood similar in size to that of ...


2

If no flex and not moisture damage, the classic method of repair is: Find a drywall paste and use fiberglass-net type tape to reinforce it, directions are on the label. Use a 6” or 8” trowel and build up in layers after each one dries. Prime before painting. Fill large cracks with foam or butyl tape/strips/rope first, then cover with layers of drywall ...


0

Some bad info here. Mesh tape is weaker than paper and you must use hot mud on your initial coat over mesh. USG and National Gypsum both say to use hot mud for initial coats if using mesh tape. Mesh does eliminate the bubble issues that can plague rookie tapers and if you haven't invested into automatic taking tools it is faster than hand taping. Paper ...


0

If the gap is wider at the top then you have a door to wall connection issue with is common with french doors which are typically larger and heavier than normal doors. Before patching, replace one of the screws in the top hinge with a 3" long screw of the same size (usually #8 or #10) and screw it into the stud. Don't over-tighten or it mmight pull the ...


0

You could hire a structural engineer to access. However, you do have the 'test of time' test, they've been there and are working. However, they also appear to be lightly loaded. Those shelves appear to be very strong and likely properly installed or they would have failed already, or show signs of failing. You're right be concerned about the wall studs, ...


5

That depends on the bend... too much and it will crack, otherwise it naturally flexes anyway.


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