36

Yes, there is a very good reason. If you add water to dry mix in the bottom of the container, you get a nearly impossible to incorporate glob of the dry mix at the bottom. On the other hand, if you add it from the top, it's much easier to get it all incorporated. This works with everything from pancake mix to drywall compound. Try it each way and you'll see ...


20

I'll deviate from the other suggestions. I prefer to cut in open space and float new backing. It's more difficult to cut down a stud. The knife or saw can't penetrate cleanly through, and you tend to hit fasteners. If you're too far off the stud center you'll have a hard time putting screws back into the skinny overlap. New, floated backing can be wider ...


14

From Chemistry: "Do like you oughtta: add acid to water" . Besides the "glop" problem mentioned in the answer, there is almost always released heat when dissolving something in water. If you start with lots of reagent and little water, the water may boil, leading to rather undesirable dispersal of hot reagent.


13

A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.


8

I think it would depend on the amount of compound you're putting down the drain, what size drain, how much water is used to flush the tools, and probably a few other factors I haven't thought of. Though typically it's not a problem, as long as you're not pouring a whole tray of mud down the drain. Scoop out any left over mud from your tray/hawk, and throw ...


7

No. You shouldn't have to wet the first coat.


7

Paper tape or mesh tape? It comes down to preference. As a "beginner" (but not for long... haha) I feel that mesh tape will be easier for you. No, you do not have to use any special mud; premix will work just fine. Some say that paper tape is stronger; some say that it is less likely to form hairline joint cracks over time. Pre-mixed vs setting-type ...


7

This answer is a general overview of the points you are asking about. I do not know the size and scope of your project so i can not tailor my answer to your specific situation. I think ideally, I could cut exactly down the center of a stud so that I could screw it back in. Yes, that is what i do, i am practiced and can do it well if i take the time to ...


7

The easiest way is to cut on edge of studs on each side. Just use utility knife to make a hole then a drywall saw and make your way over to the stud in question. Then cut down, back over and repeat. Now you have a big hole. Add an extra 2x4 on each side the height of your hole. and then reinstall your drywall. Any other way you do it your mud build ...


7

It's joint compound, commonly called mud, and not grout. If you are sanding into the tape, you have not applied enough. It's not a "one and done" product. You apply joint compound and embed tape. You let it dry (or set, but setting compound is not the usual DIY choice.) Incidentally, USG recommends paper tape as superior to mesh unless you are ...


6

Under the tape, you should have no voids. If you do, you likely didn't press it into the bed of mud well enough, or you didn't have enough mud period. The mud acts like glue to the tape (properly applied). Mud is designed for multiple coats, however. Even if the mud pulls the tape in some, a subsequent coat should fill the gap.


6

Find the screws with a magnet. Chip out the drywall compound in the screw-heads with a pick/nail/pointy-tool. Remove the screws. Cut the drywall down the middle of the stud.


5

It looks like you have enough joint compound on that to sand it down already... but I can't be sure from a picture. Yes, if you are going to apply more joint compound (I like to call it mud), you should probably sand that, or at least use a damp towel to knock down the really rough spots. If you aren't familiar with the right consistency, buy some fresh mud ...


5

Do not leave mud in a pan. If it's premixed mud, just put it back in the bucket, put the lid back on, then clean your tools. If it's powdered setting type from a bag, throw the used mud in the bin, then clean your tools.


4

It is hard to tell if your mix was even poor. I would guess it is but honestly you put the layer down so unevenly that it is hard to tell. If you say it was too dry then go with that - should have the texture like moist, fluffy mash potatoes. Two tips here: if your mud look like this after it dries it isn't the end of the world. This is basically what ...


4

its hard to tell from the photo and description, but your mix looks poor (bubbles and chunks). always add cold, cold water to the bucket first, then powder. mix to a thin slurry and then add a little more at a time until you get the consistency you want (a little thicker than cake batter - should be just stiff enough to not slump on its own, but right at ...


4

There are huge differences. I am sure a professional tradesman can go over the exact specifics but here is my common man take (even though I have drywalled too many houses to remember): plaster generally sets more quickly plaster is thicker plaster can be applied more thickly (joint compound you get about 1/8") plaster to me is like working with thinset ...


4

If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall) If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint ...


4

Huh? Of course you will. Always. Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable. That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-...


4

I agree with Jimmy Fix-It's answer and would elaborate on a couple issues. Go with the pre-mix compound, otherwise you'll also be buying a mixing attachment for your heavy-duty drill and experimenting on the consistency. If you were planning on changing to a career in drywall that would be different but as a DIY who may do occasional hanging/taping jobs ...


4

Nope. It has to be done anyway or you'll have cracking. Some pro tapers prefill recessed joints anyway, then do their taping. Put it on and skim out nice and wide to conceal the hump. Such a joint should end up around 24" wide, much like a typical end joint.


4

I'd say it's a little from column A and a little from column B. A good drywaller will get the finish to a point of being pretty darn good before primer. A bright light shone sideways on the wall shows where work is needed. That said, primer shows all the little (emphasis: they should be little) flaws that the painter usually touches up. So, I'd suggest ...


4

No, paint is not required for wall board on combustible (wood) construction. (See ICC Table 720.1(2), Items 12, 14, and 15.) Note: Item 15 includes 2-hour fire rated construction too (two layers of gypsum board). However, be aware that nailing requirements, type of plaster mix, etc. do matter. Most stud spacing is 16” on center, but I did see one with 24” on ...


4

Most of the compounds I've used usually say you can a little more or less water depending on what the application is for. Like Stove Top Stuffing: add a little more water for more moist stuffing or less for dryer stuffing. If you add too much water to your compounds, then you'll end up with compound soup and it just won't stick to the wall.


4

Adding water to prolong working time is known as "retempering". In general it's not a good idea as it dilutes the concentration of cement components in the mix. This means that the resulting material is more porous. It's often specifically prohibited with things like tile mortar, where strength is a critical concern. In the case of joint compound ...


3

There are lots of different kinds of asbestos and it’s in all kinds of building products. You’re right to be careful. We’ve had our remodeling projects tested for many years (30+) and a testing agency just found it in the window glazing compound..the stuff that holds the glass tight to the wood window frame. That’s a new one for me. I guess my point is ...


3

I'm having a hard time articulating this without a visual aid, so bear with me. You can eliminate the need for paper tape by leaving one side of the paper on the drywall patch after you score / snap it. So instead of cutting the other side of the paper after the score / snap, you peel it back an inch or two on all sides, and cut the paper so that you'll ...


3

I've done this on one room- taking a knock-down texture and skim coating it to make it smooth. The downside is that you then are able to see every wave, bump, and bobble that the drywall installers didn't bother fixing because they knew it would be hidden by texture. ;) I was able to get by with one coat and one sanding, but I was also applying a ...


3

The previous owners of my house did this. Drywall compound will stick very well to wood paneling (please resist the urge to get "creative" with the texture...). Wallpaper, less so, and even if it sticks well, if the wallpaper ever started peeling off, it would take the top part of the wall with it. If you're going down this route, I would highly recommend ...


3

Drywall mud's redeeming quality vs its better qualified plaster cousins is its solubility. Adding any water to drywall mud will slowly dissolve it. Add a lot of water or hot water to mud (in any state) will start to dissolve the material, quite quickly if water overpowers. The only possibly issue is if you poured down a chunk that blocked things then ...


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