Hot answers tagged

50

Lay the steel plate on the concrete where you want it. Draw a line around it. Cut a piece of paper to the same size as the steel plate. Place it on the concrete in the same position as the marked outline. Locate the concrete holes by gently pressing down where you think they are (tracing paper makes this even easier). Poke a hole through the paper at ...


50

A 1.5" hole (38mm) in concrete is beyond any conventional drill. You might get away drilling empty block, but not a foundation. I'd suggest renting a big rotary hammer drill driver for this job. Most rental places are happy to rent you a suitable bit for the task as well, on the basis if you didn't have the tool you're unlikely to have the proper sized ...


42

For this you can use wall drilling anchors as shown in the images below. They are also known as wall plugs or rawl plugs. You can get them from any hardware shop.


35

The hammering action of the drill isn't activating So the bit is overheating due to friction. It is supposed to hammer the material you're drilling into dust then evacuate it, not rub it off through friction. You have to activate the hammer action. Pretty much the only use cases for not using the hammer action are when drilling into ceramic tile to avoid ...


35

I make a template with a piece of paper or cardboard (like the box the item came in). This makes drilling holes in a precise pattern a bit easier. In some situations, you might transfer the pattern from your paper onto the wall using pencil / marker / spray-paint. For the size mirror you're talking about, you might want to read about another mounting ...


34

Is my cabinet maker correct They are right that drilling clean holes in glass is more difficult than in wood or steel. In my opinion, they are not right to say that visible cracking around the hole is normal. They are a professional and part of the price they charge is for having the skill, experience and tools to do the job better and quicker than you ...


34

That's plaster, not drywall, and you've encountered metal lath. It was commonly used at corners and other vulnerable locations to add strength and crack resistance. It won't be a problem to cut a small amount away for your purposes. Just be careful to not snag it with a power tool and rip things loose. An abrasive grinding wheel might be a good bet.


34

More important than the power rating is the type of hammer drill. This is a very useful link which explains the full difference between a 'Hammer Drill' and a 'Rotary Hammer'. The former achieves the hammer action by spinning a bumpy disk against the end of the driveshaft of the chuck, which makes is vibrate a bit. These are OK for soft brick, but not much ...


34

Those are replacement brushes for the electric motor in your drill. They are what make the electrical contact to the coil in the motor that spins, while also allowing it to spin. The rectangular part on the end will eventually wear out. It's nice of your drill manufacturer to give you a set of spares. You can swap these out either by removing a couple of ...


32

Vacuum near the point of drilling Have someone to stand next to you with the nozzle of a (running) vacuum cleaner, and position it very carefully near the where the drill bit enters the wall. Preferably - under the drill point facing up, so as not to "compete" with gravity. Most of the dust should be caught by the vacuum cleaner. Down-sides to this ...


32

No, nothing to do. If you download the assembly instructions for MOSJÖ you won’t see anything about a bracket for attaching the item to the wall, and there isn’t one included in the package.


32

Yes. Look for a Drywall Screw Setter Bit Tip. They work well.


31

I recently had the same issue and tried numerous solutions with no luck. In the end I purchased a strap wrench: This kind of wrench grips the object via a strap or a chain: You basically put the strap around the chuck, tighten the strap and then use the wrench handle as a lever to gain more torque while trying to undo chuck. This worked extremely well. I ...


30

Absolutely no problem. The screws (actually called "lag bolts") bite into the wood immediately around them, and the wood fibers around that hold the bolt in place. Yes the holes you made already weaken the fibers immediately around them but the amount is insignificant. And, for a flat screen TV like you're describing, the weight you'll be putting on ...


30

Obviously, safety considerations like isolating that circuit are paramount, and note that even if that circuit's breaker is off, then the neutral touching earth can still trip the Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker... Find the socket / box that that wire goes to, disconnect it, then pull it out from the other end (which you need to find - either in the roof ...


30

Get it wet! When drilling or cutting stone, using water to cool the bit will help cut faster and smoother and prolong the life of the bit. When drilling in the wet hole, you don't need a special drill because all of the electrics are safely away from the water. When using a saw or grinder, one made for wet cutting is recommended. Of course, using water ...


30

Hire a core driller. Trust me and do it. You will regret doing this yourself and the cost will seem like nothing in comparison to your struggles with drilling a hole that size in solid concrete. probably cost you 200 bucks. You can rent one from a tool rental company, or even from home depot.... https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Small-Core-...


30

The fact that part of the bit has broken off does lead one to believe the rest of it may be in danger of disintegrating during use with the potential for bits of metal to go flying in unexpected directions. Also, the fact that the point appears to be off-center means that you're going to have a hard time getting the bit centered where you want the hole to be ...


29

Homemade Stops Wrap a bit of tape around the bit, to mark the desired depth. Then carefully drill your holes, stopping when you've reached the tape. I've also seen this done with a bit of wire. WARNING: Wrapping the wire in the wrong direction, can lead to property damage, injury, and death. Store Bought Stops Or you could purchase a drill stop. Which ...


28

3/8" mild (hot-rolled) steel isn't difficult to drill, but any bit will fail if you get it hot enough to melt the cutting edge. Each hole should take no more than a minute. Use a sequence of sizes (1/8", 1/4", 3/8"). This makes for quicker drilling and allows each bit to cool between uses. If you only have "pilot point" bits on hand, use a starter bit that'...


27

I used to work for a company that built machines that drilled these holes (though we did it in much larger pieces, usually 3/4" to 2" thickness). It's not a hard process, it's slightly expensive, but it's doable. The process is basically as follows: Use two diamond-tipped drill bits to cut the hole (one above and one below); Use a water-jet to push water ...


27

Impact drills are used in concrete and stone, with the appropriate drill bits, because they drill faster by causing micro fractures of the material surface and thus easier removal. The drill bits can get rather hot in the process. It is still possible to drill holes in concrete with a regular plain rotary drill with the proper carbide tipped drill bits. It ...


25

"Why do I have to attach IKEA furniture to the wall specifically? No other furniture seller requires this." This is because of IKEA's iconography in the minds of the public. If you buy a locally made TV stand from George Utrecht Family Furniture down on Mill Road, and a child climbs on it and it falls over, you'd never dream of suing old George. You ...


23

If there is no wood at all behind this spot anywhere, a plain wall anchor may rip out over time - curtain rails hold curtains which can be heavy, and can flap around in the wind creating vibration which slowly erodes plaster. Here are some better designs of plasterboard anchor (drywall / sheet rock / gibralter board) Rightmost is your standard cheap wall ...


22

If you are using a core bit with a shaft for which there's an extension, you'd probably have thought of that already. As far as I know there's no extension available for SDS plus or SDS max shanks. There are extensions for the "rope" threads and for the 5/8" and 7/8" threads on diamond core bits. The John Henry method is to drill as far as you can, then ...


21

As strange as this might sound, provided there's a stud back there, you can use toothpicks to fill in the hole. The toothpicks can bite into the screw, and provide friction against the surrounding wood. If this is just drywall, use a drywall anchor like the other answers detailed


21

I am not sure why they would tell you that it may ruin your drill. It might not be the most powerful hammer drill but it should be up for the job if you take the time to do it in stages. If you cannot rent and you do not want to buy a more robust hammer drill you’re only left with one option. I would start with a 3/16 inch masonry bit and see how that goes....


20

Of course you can, and it's very easy to do. All you need is an appropriate hole saw. Drill from the top down. If you can, hold or clamp a piece of scrap wood under where you are cutting. That will prevent the bottom from splintering. Then to make it really look nice (and prevent any future splinters) you'll want a desk grommet that slips inside the ...


20

The wall looks like plaster or drywall (aka sheetrock). You insert an "anchor" into the hole and thread a screw into the anchor. plastic anchors for plaster or drywall But if there is solid wood of sufficient dimensions behind the plaster you use a long enough screw to thread into the wood. In your case, if you have good wood behind the plaster, but you ...


19

You can't. The tempered glass will completely shatter if this is even attempted. If you absolutely must have tempered glass with a hole in it, the hole or any other shaping must be done before the tempering process.


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