Search for "Lift up" hinges. These will let you lift up a section of desk to reveal something underneath, but won't let you click in the desk to lift it up. For that, you'll want push latches.
I'm not quite sure how well those will work in combination. As a fallback, consider some kind of recessed handle. (There's a bunch of options out there.)
Open it so it jams then back it off a bit, so whatever is causing the jam is not stuck. Then using a ruler, piece of cardboard, or other flat object, work it into the gap so it rests above the drawer contents and presses down on them (or just guides them) to free them from the drawer or frame above.
To hold it up there are cupboard door stays used in motorhomes/caravans (RVs etc.). Here (eBay) are some I've used. They're just a spring in a tube, and aren't all that string, but should do this job. They're often used together with push latches.
If it's very heavy, look for small gas struts (a smaller version of those used in car boots/trunks). You'll ...
You could use anti-friction tape.
The other thing you could consider is sheet metal. You could get 20g sheet metal and use that to make cross bridging. It might be rigid and thin enough to help support the bottom.
Another idea would be to split the interior drawer into two sections and use the drawer divider to pull up the bottom (either splitting the ...
You push the black tab in to towards the side of the drawer. Then lift up the front edge, making sure the black tab fits through the slot. Once the black tab is clear, you can pull the drawer out a tiny bit to unhook the hook towards the back.
There are purpose-built products out there that are designed to do this.
Hard to show an example without it coming across as a recommendation, but you may want to explore something like this:
Table Top Fitting, Swing Up, Tavoflex
To stress, this is merely an example and not a product recommendation.
For my money, I think I'd save myself the frustration of ...
I've had this happen before. Like the commenter mentioned, it's due to one of two things:
The cabinet is not level with the floor causing the whole cabinet to lean forward.
The tracks for the draw are not level, causing the drawer to tilt forward.
Just get a level and test the drawer and the track.
The major home centers, Lowes, Home Depot, etc can typically order items such as this custom made. If the cabinet was originally a "stock" size cabinet from such a place, it should be easy to get a replacement. You may or may not be able to find a match to the finish, though. I would hesitate to spend a lot on a really good replacement as a merely adequate ...
The ruler idea usually works for me. If not ...
If there is a draw below it, pull it out, then you may be able to reach under and up behind the jammed upper drawer and move the contents around or pull some out.
Some table leg brackets and screws should be all you need, besides the rails which makes no difference in this concept.
Using table leg brackets will allow you to fasten and sandwich the pieces of wood material nicely with minimal unintentional industrial look. :P
4 Table leg brackets per drawer
Place one bracket on top of each corner of the plywood and ...
That looks sort of like a web frame, although only the front rail. A web frame supports the drawer, provides a place to mount the drawer runners, can frame a dust cover, and stiffens the cabinet. From the picture, this looks like it's only there for the last function.
Stringers are the zigzag style angled beams that hold up conventional stairs.
They are used on each side ot the staircase and sometimes in the middle as well. They hold up the treads and the risers (the vertical boards) are attached to them.
Image 1 is basically floating treads on the stringers and using the risers as faces of drawer fronts. As the ...
Metal corner braces will work to some degree, but will be hideous. I recently rebuilt one in my home that had been repaired that way. You'll see them every time you open the drawer, along with the torn-out face of the panels.
I would cut a new board (solid wood, plywood, particle board) exactly the size of the inner dimensions of the drawer, and mount it ...
No idea how "handy" you are or have the skills or tools available but there is a trick you could try.
You could reshape the drawer body to be a parallelogram, and offset the sliders so the drawer pulls out to an angle. When closed it would look normal.
Obviously you would need to draw that up to match your angles appropriately. Getting past the handle on ...
I think you have two options here.
Either you repair that hole by filling it with epoxy resin or another suitable filler. After that you may have to drill it again to make sure it has the right diameter and position.
Or you drill a bigger hole and use an insert nut (see wikipedia). Then you also have to replace the special scew depicted by a suitable ...
PVC sheets may be a great option. You can use a thicker one that will hold it's shape better or a thin one that can be rolled up. Here is one of many suppliers just to give an example.
Personally, I'm a frugal and more about problem solving than how it looks and would probably use cardboard. I'd either use a bigger box from home delivery items or hunt down ...
Nice idea. How about making a tilt-top cubby at the back of the desk?
Cut the top across the width of the speakers (perhaps two compartments., for stereo, leaving the center as flat space even when open).
Hinge the back of the top to the back edge of the desk.
Mount speakers under that flap (or flaps).
Use either a drop-down support rod or springs to hold ...
This type of slide decouples simply by giving the drawer a good tug in the straightout direction. It is advised to start the tug when the drawer is fully extended and then apply a steady but very firm pull.
When it comes time to reinstall the drawer you reach into the drawer opening and then pull the bearing carrier tray fully out up to the face frame. ...
I've just succeeded in opening an overfilled kitchen drawer! The drawer was almost completely closed and was so accurately fitted that a thin metal ruler wouldn't slide in. I tried a piece of card; also too thick. I then used a very thin filing cabinet 'hanger' after removing the metal pieces. This, to my amazement, slid in and was wide enough to go right ...
MALM drawers soft close available now in IKEA as an ad-on. Easy to install and very efficient.
Part No. MARKHUS Soft closing device 604.265.71
Your tracks are not level. What you need to do is take the drawers out and then unscrew the back of the track where it attaches to the wall. Then you need to move it down so it is just a little bit unlevel (make sure the track slants down away from you!).
I have this happening at a rental unit, and it just started happening at my own house in my kitchen that we remodeled a few years ago. I talked to my cabinet maker and he said there is a little rubber bushing on each drawer slide that keeps it closed. Over time, the rubber cracks and the bushing falls out, so there's nothing keeping the drawer closed. ...