Lots of work. BORING!
Oscillating multi-tool or Rotary tool
You're probably not cutting 1/8" steel with this, but it's useful for cutting very thin metal.
A little more fun, but still a bit tedious. Make sure you use the proper blade.
More fun, but you may have trouble keeping a straight line.
Let the ...
It means the slide is 16" long and that you can pull your drawer out a full 16" relative to the slide. If your cabinet space was 20" deep, and you mounted this all the way at the back then your drawer would not come out 16" but instead 16-4=12".
Open it so it jams then back it off a bit, so whatever is causing the jam is not stuck. Then using a ruler, piece of cardboard, or other flat object, work it into the gap so it rests above the drawer contents and presses down on them (or just guides them) to free them from the drawer or frame above.
You push the black tab in to towards the side of the drawer. Then lift up the front edge, making sure the black tab fits through the slot. Once the black tab is clear, you can pull the drawer out a tiny bit to unhook the hook towards the back.
I've had this happen before. Like the commenter mentioned, it's due to one of two things:
The cabinet is not level with the floor causing the whole cabinet to lean forward.
The tracks for the draw are not level, causing the drawer to tilt forward.
Just get a level and test the drawer and the track.
The ruler idea usually works for me. If not ...
If there is a draw below it, pull it out, then you may be able to reach under and up behind the jammed upper drawer and move the contents around or pull some out.
The major home centers, Lowes, Home Depot, etc can typically order items such as this custom made. If the cabinet was originally a "stock" size cabinet from such a place, it should be easy to get a replacement. You may or may not be able to find a match to the finish, though. I would hesitate to spend a lot on a really good replacement as a merely adequate ...
Some table leg brackets and screws should be all you need, besides the rails which makes no difference in this concept.
Using table leg brackets will allow you to fasten and sandwich the pieces of wood material nicely with minimal unintentional industrial look. :P
4 Table leg brackets per drawer
Place one bracket on top of each corner of the plywood and ...
That looks sort of like a web frame, although only the front rail. A web frame supports the drawer, provides a place to mount the drawer runners, can frame a dust cover, and stiffens the cabinet. From the picture, this looks like it's only there for the last function.
Stringers are the zigzag style angled beams that hold up conventional stairs.
They are used on each side ot the staircase and sometimes in the middle as well. They hold up the treads and the risers (the vertical boards) are attached to them.
Image 1 is basically floating treads on the stringers and using the risers as faces of drawer fronts. As the ...
Remove the drawer beneath or above the stuck draw. If you can get beneath it, push up against the drawer bottom and rattle that thing around. If you can remove the drawer above the problematic one, well, your problem should be before your eyes.
16" refers to the length of the slide when closed, which will usually also be the depth of the drawer you're installing them on. Your cabinet (or whatever you're installing in) would need to be at least 16" deep, plus the thickness of any false front you may have on the drawer if you want to make them flush.
It's also a nominal length--I just bought these ...
Metal corner braces will work to some degree, but will be hideous. I recently rebuilt one in my home that had been repaired that way. You'll see them every time you open the drawer, along with the torn-out face of the panels.
I would cut a new board (solid wood, plywood, particle board) exactly the size of the inner dimensions of the drawer, and mount it ...
No idea how "handy" you are or have the skills or tools available but there is a trick you could try.
You could reshape the drawer body to be a parallelogram, and offset the sliders so the drawer pulls out to an angle. When closed it would look normal.
Obviously you would need to draw that up to match your angles appropriately. Getting past the handle on ...
I think you have two options here.
Either you repair that hole by filling it with epoxy resin or another suitable filler. After that you may have to drill it again to make sure it has the right diameter and position.
Or you drill a bigger hole and use an insert nut (see wikipedia). Then you also have to replace the special scew depicted by a suitable ...
PVC sheets may be a great option. You can use a thicker one that will hold it's shape better or a thin one that can be rolled up. Here is one of many suppliers just to give an example.
Personally, I'm a frugal and more about problem solving than how it looks and would probably use cardboard. I'd either use a bigger box from home delivery items or hunt down ...
There are a few tricks to drawer slides. The main things to get right are to make them parallel and co-planar (same distance from the case bottom on the right and the left side, as well as level front-to-back in the case). It helps if your case is perfectly square, so really focus on that. You'll want to determine your drawer width based on how thick the ...
I've just succeeded in opening an overfilled kitchen drawer! The drawer was almost completely closed and was so accurately fitted that a thin metal ruler wouldn't slide in. I tried a piece of card; also too thick. I then used a very thin filing cabinet 'hanger' after removing the metal pieces. This, to my amazement, slid in and was wide enough to go right ...
The cleanest and fastest way would be to use a power jigsaw with an appropriate blade ("for metal", small teeth). You'll still need to drill two holes in the corners to be able to turn the blade in between cuts. You'll then need a file for minor final treatment of the cuts.
The cheapo way would be to use a hacksaw for the lengthwise cuts and then a series ...
I personally would use an angle grinder because it's a lot easier to keep a straight line. That, and you can use the same tool to clean the burrs off after. However, they're more dangerous than a jigsaw. You could always start out with a dremel and a few cutoff wheels.
I mentioned burrs above. Since it looks like you've never cut metal before, be aware ...
This type of slide decouples simply by giving the drawer a good tug in the straightout direction. It is advised to start the tug when the drawer is fully extended and then apply a steady but very firm pull.
When it comes time to reinstall the drawer you reach into the drawer opening and then pull the bearing carrier tray fully out up to the face frame. ...
You can ring IKEA, specify the piece(s) you need and they will send you out the replacement part so you don't even need to go back to the store.
When it happened to me they had forgot to include pieces so they sent it out free of charge. I'm not sure if they'll charge you if you lost it of your own accord.